Can anyone help with my BAP issues?

04azuremach

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One day my car randomly decided to run so extremely rich that it can't even hold an idle and pour a puddle of fuel from the tail pipes. This happened once before and it turned out that the SCT chip just needed to be cleaned or whatever. So this time I just said screw it and got an xcal3 and loaded the tune on the car and same result. Pours fuel out of the exhaust.

So then I got to thinking what else might cause this. I went to the trunk and took the fuse out of the line to the BAP. I started the car up and it ran seemingly normal. I don't have a wide band, but the car held a very steady idle and there was no fuel pouring from the pipes anymore.

So, I was originally thinking either A. BAP is bad or B. BAP is getting a signal that the car is WOT when it's not.

Today I called my tuner and he told me that the car shouldn't start at all without that fuse. Well... it ran 100 times better without the fuse than with. He thinks maybe it's wired wrong. I can turn a wrench as good as anybody, but when it comes to electronics (and welding and custom fabbing to name others), I royally suck. I don't want to trailer my car for 3 hours up to SGS if I don't have to considering I don't own a trailer. So if anyone knows a thing or two about BAP's and is willing to lend a hand... please do
 

04azuremach

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Sounds like its wired straight to the pumps, rather than the input of the FPDM

Wouldn't that prevent the car from starting if I removed the fuse though?

I actually don't know how it's wired. SGS installed it. I replaced the FPDM with a stage 2 almost 2 years ago, but there wasn't any wiring involved, so I have no idea how it is, or how it's supposed to be.
 

04azuremach

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After looking at the wiring diagram for a BAP, I think it might be that the fuse is actually on the line to the vacuum pressure switch. This would allow the car to run without the fuse, but would not add any extra voltage to the pumps without the fuse. So I need to check the vacuum pressure switch. The only problem with that... I have no idea where that is or what it looks like
 

04azuremach

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DiagramA_Lingenfelter.jpg
 

spp114

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Shouldn't the injectors be the control point as to how much fuel is getting into the engine, regardles of what the BAP is doing?

Try datalogging with the sct then you will have some actual data to work with and send to your tuner.
 

04azuremach

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it wasn't a BAP issue. I replaced the FRPS. The old one's diaphragm broke and fuel was getting into the vacuum line. So, I solved my fuel problem (Data logs right at 39 PSI and steady), but I'm not out of the woods yet. I replaced all of my dirty plugs (from the extreme rich conditions) and cylinder number 4 I think... the one on the passenger side that's the farthest back was covered in fuel/oil and so was the coil pack. I cleaned all the junk out of the plug hole as best I could. The car runs better, but it's still not right. It takes a long time to crank to a start and runs pretty rough. I'm going to pull that plug again and do a compression check tonight.

Any other things I should look for?
 

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