Camber Question

[Petro]

I just had BMR UCA, LCA, and Panhard rod installed along with Ford Racing 5300L springs. My front rim is 20x10 wrapped in 275/35/20 NT05. I have a little too much negative camber after the install and my installer suggested using the BBK caster/camber plates. Does anyone have any experience with these on a 13/14, or could someone recommend a better solution? Any input would be appreciated. The car is mostly street driven, non DD, and I visit the drag strip 4-5 times a year.


Thanks, Pete

 

[Cman01]

I plan on getting Maximum Motorsports camber plates so I don't know how good or bad the BBK version is. Most guys that track will probably go with MM stuff over any of the other offerings.

http://www.maximummotorsports.com/M...ates-2005-2010-and-2007-2014-GT500-P1151.aspx

Tony

 

[13 Cobra Toy]

I plan on getting Maximum Motorsports camber plates so I don't know how good or bad the BBK version is. Most guys that track will probably go with MM stuff over any of the other offerings.

http://www.maximummotorsports.com/M...ates-2005-2010-and-2007-2014-GT500-P1151.aspx

Tony

MM is the best out there. :thumbsup:

 

[JAJ]

I just had BMR UCA, LCA, and Panhard rod installed along with Ford Racing 5300L springs. My front rim is 20x10 wrapped in 275/35/20 NT05. I have a little too much negative camber after the install and my installer suggested using the BBK caster/camber plates. Does anyone have any experience with these on a 13/14, or could someone recommend a better solution? Any input would be appreciated. The car is mostly street driven, non DD, and I visit the drag strip 4-5 times a year.


Thanks, Pete

I just installed a set of Ford's OEM "crash bolts". They are the factory's camber adjustment solution, but they only work with the OEM Ford struts. They're not cheap either, at $150 or so a set, but they don't change the NVH, they can't wear out and they look absolutely stock. I'd call it a "better solution" if you're running stock struts.

 

[Cman01]

Is there a picture of these bolts??? WOW $150 for a set of bolts is kinda hard to swallow.

MM also has these bolts that they recommend you should replace if you install camber plates or any time you remove the strut from the vehicle:

http://www.maximummotorsports.com/Strut-to-spindle-mounting-hardware-kit-2005-Mustang-P1360.aspx

edit: not sure what the OE factory torque spec is for the original strut to spindle bolts, as they say in the description from the link above the new bolt kit is fine thread and requires a higher tightening torque spec. of 166 ft./lbs.

 

[Tob]

Earlier S197's were seeing spindles crack. Fine thread strut bolts with a higher torque figure replaced the coarse threaded bolts. About the same time Ford upgraded the ball joints as well.

From a technical standpoint, you'd be better served by using caster/camber plates instead of a smaller shanked "crash bolt."

 

[BOSSPOWER]

http://www.vorshlag.com/product_info.php?cPath=141_142_179&products_id=274

I consider these to be the best CP out there...

Manuel

 

[Petro]

Thanks for the great info guys, both the MM and Vorshlag look like solid choices.

 

[JAJ]

Earlier S197's were seeing spindles crack. Fine thread strut bolts with a higher torque figure replaced the coarse threaded bolts. About the same time Ford upgraded the ball joints as well.

From a technical standpoint, you'd be better served by using caster/camber plates instead of a smaller shanked "crash bolt."

I agree with not using the smaller shanked camber adjusting bolts. That's why I installed the Ford ones.

The Ford part number is 4R3Z-3B236-AB and they're full-size grade 10.9 M14 bolts with a cam plate under the bolt head. You have to remove the strut and slot the lower strut mount hole to allow the cam to reposition the strut relative to the knuckle, changing the camber. When it's torqued to 166 ft-lbs, you have the same high clamping pressure as the factory bolts and a massive steel cam locking the strut in position. If you look at an OEM strut, there's a formed steel "dam" (a slot that's displaced to form a hard edge) on the inside of the lower bolt. The cam fits exactly between the dam and the formed outer edge of the flange.

The stated reason for this Ford part's existence is to provide adjustment if frame damage makes it impossible to get the alignment back to stock. However, if you're a showroom stock racer, these little babies are legal in your class (because it's a genuine Ford part, not an aftermarket part) and it'll give you up to three degrees of negative camber. The caster bolts that come with the kit will give you a boost as well if you choose to install them. It's like a little plastic bag of competitive advantage.

 

[crucianpilot]

I've got eibach sportlines and my installer never mentioned any need to use camber bolts even though I provided them. Said everything was within specs.