Cam gear/timing belt in progress....need help

[a64armt]

I am in the process of replacing the timing belt.

I have the vehicle disassembled and I am trying to loosen the cam gears, but they don't seem to be budging. I have already bent the cam alignment bar slightly (straightened it though), and I can't seem to figure out how to "keep the cam from turning with an open wrench". I don't want to place a wrench somewhere and then need a new cam due to breaking something.

Also, the Variable cam gear has an odd looking bolt behind the plug. A 15mm socket fits, but I don't want to change using it if it will damage it......any words from someone more experienced is greatly appreciated.


Can anyone help please? I will wait patiently, with my car disassembled..........


Thanks,
Vincent

 

[a64armt]

OK, figured out how to loosen the cam gears.......I had to take the cams out of adjustment and then the location to use a wrench on the cams was revealed.

That raises another question.........can the CAM alignment tool be installed in two positions? I attempted to install the cam alignment tool 180 deg out of TDC and the slots are too low. It appears the cams are "me-proof" (read idiot proof), and the cam tool will only go in one position.

Additionally, I had difficulty figuring out what was TDC on the crank. I used a long 1/4 drive extention to verify the piston was at top, and the crank lock pin works as described in the instructions. I assume I have it correct.


Any thoughts are appreciated.

Vincent

 

[a64armt]

I am at my wits end trying to change this timing belt.

Car had zero issues before I "attempted" the timing belt replacement.

I had problems getting the cam gears loose, but I finally got them. I aligned the cams and crank per the instructions with the tools and installed the timing belt, then tightened the cam gears. I rotated the crank several times and checked the alignment several times, each time they checked out. I verified the timing belt tensioner several times as well.

At one time I noticed the timing belt working its way off the gears and had to reset the whole assembly. The tech at Central Florida Motorsports, who sold me the timing belt and parts (tensioner, idler, serpentine belt, etc) told me that the crank pulley would keep the belt on.

I installled everything, doublechecked, etc. The car starts, however it doesn't run very well. There is a burning odor that can best be described as rubber on plastic. I removed the upper timing cover and checked the belt after driving a couple miles and there is not abnormal signs of wear or rubbing. When the car cools I will disassemble the lower covers and check.

The car runs terrible. The throttle is slow to respond and there is what can be described as an exhaust rumble. I am assuming I have the cams out of alignment. I will have to disassmble and check. I am thinking the variable cam gear is out of adjustment.

If I understand the variable cam gear, it is actuated by oil pressure. I noticed oil draining out of it. Quite a bit of oil drained out of it during the 5 day process. It is possible this draining of oil is causing the timing issue?

If I check the cams and they are in alignment with the crank with the alignment tools, where do I go from there?

Any advice is appreciated.

Thanks in advance,
Vincent

 

[97CasperCobra]

***k man, sorry to hear about the problems. Doesn't give me too much confidence in doing it myself within the next few weeks.

 

[HalfTime]

It sounds like it needs to build oil pressure in the Variable cam actuator. I'd take that apart and make sure you have no blockage in their. That would through off the intake timing. As far as the smell, if it smells like burnt rubber, then it probably is. I'd check your belt for sings of rubbing. Did you use assembly lube? Check for signs of irregular marks on the cams. I can tell you this for sure; the timing of the cams is a pain on these cars. Lol I’m sure you know by now. But it sounds like you are doing fine, I know it is all confusing, but keep following the instructions, one step at a time, double check everything, and it should a piece together. You've made all the right steps so far. Just one last bug I guess. And I think it is in the Var Cam Actuator. Good Luck, and let me know.

Lucas

 

[HalfTime]

Just curious, if your car was running fine before, why are you going though all this trouble?

 

[a64armt]

The car has 92,xxx miles on it, the general concensus is the timing belt should be replaced at or before 100,000 miles. The belt looked fine when removed though.

Thanks,
Vincent

 

[FocusSVT0004]

The car has 92,xxx miles on it, the general concensus is the timing belt should be replaced at or before 100,000 miles. The belt looked fine when removed though.

Thanks,
Vincent

Just asking questions because I dont know, but wouldnt you want to wait until the belt actually shows wear before all this work? I mean if it works fine and looks good then it should still last a while right?

 

[97CasperCobra]

Just asking questions because I dont know, but wouldnt you want to wait until the belt actually shows wear before all this work? I mean if it works fine and looks good then it should still last a while right?

There is no easy way to tell of "signs" that the timing belt is going South. I have all the parts to do the procedure, SVTF is at 100K+ miles and I feel like I'm on borrowed time!!!

 

[HalfTime]

I'd rather replace it, then wait for it to go bad and jack up the cams.

 

[DR. WU 2000]

this is the exact reason why I am having an experienced mechanic change this fauking thing....:dw:I still have a ways to go though..roughly 75K miles...I'll let you know in 25 years how it goes;-)

 

[a64armt]

Car works, I am such an idiot

Well, the car is running just fine. I should have taken a step back the first time I started the car and had problems.

The culprit causing all the problems was a bad plug wire. #1 cylinder wasn't firing, so the car was running on 3 cylinders. I feel like a boob. I installed a MSD coil pack and wires from CFM. Those guys are great, I used my own DHL account and they shipped it next day for Saturday delivery.

Anyways, I now have plenty of experience at disassembling the engine to access the timing belt and setting the timing. Had I not of had the problems with the spark plug wire, the whole task would have been easy enough and not taken too long.

I would like to thank CT SVT and HalfTime for the assistance and advice.

Vincent

 

[CT SVT]

anytime. i just did another SVTF timing belt today for a friend. he too had a misfire problem for 4 months. i found that it was the tune he had was causing it. out ecm back to stock problem gone.

Vincent, after doing the timing belt, you can see how easy it really is.

 

[a64armt]

I should have known better. This car has been great since new, not too many problems. (clutch TSB, clutch master cylinder, DSI pulsing, thermostat leak, exhaust rattle, horn failed and CD changer died twice). At 92,xxx miles, I have never changed the plug wires or plugs, never a reason to. I guess one was brittle and moving it around for the timing belt change distrurbed it.

Yes, you are correct, the timing belt isn't too difficult. My only advice it to make sure you have all the correct parts (I received the wrong valve cover gasket from Autozone, should have ordered from CFM with the other parts), and follow the instructions to the letter as you posted before.

It is good to have it back on the road. I have been driving my new 2008 Super Duty since starting the project and I really miss the Focus.

Vincent

 

[CT SVT]

just gap the plug it spec. if you get a better coil pack you can gap them to .060 and the engine runs alot smoother. i think the stock coil is good for .058 . my gap is .040 and i running 1 step colder copper plug seens i'm F.I.