Cam for my 2001

[SVT Chic]

Looking into buying a cam next spring for my 2001 Cobra. I've been looking into Comp Cams and their numbers lately. Anyone have any opinions on Cams for our cars and what prices look like?

 

[kaos]

What do the numbers look like?

 

[01SVT2894]

i dont know squat about cams, but am interested in any information i can get my hands on. let me know too.

 

["SNAKIE"]

Originally posted by 01SVT2894
i dont know squat about cams, but am interested in any information i can get my hands on. let me know too.

Same here.....TTT

 

[SVT Chic]

I'm off to work now:cryying: but I will try and post what I know later this evening!:coolman:

 

["SNAKIE"]

Originally posted by SVT Chic
I'm off to work now:cryying: but I will try and post what I know later this evening!:coolman:

Sweet :beer:

 

[quick01snake]

Originally posted by SVT Chic
Looking into buying a cam next spring for my 2001 Cobra. I've been looking into Comp Cams and their numbers lately. Anyone have any opinions on Cams for our cars and what prices look like?

i hope you plan on getting more than 1 cam .....LOL

i've heard cams really wake up our cobras, but the only cars i've seen having them swapped are blower cars, but they sig LARGE increases.....i would say cams and a nice P&P job should pick up 40-50 hp at the crank....

 

[E. Green Cobra]

I think most of the time when you do the cams you end up having to do springs retainers, and the rest of the valvetrain, at least on the higher lift cams like the fr500's.

 

[trplblacksnake]

I heard they dont do enough for the damn cost. If you can set them yourself go for it but you will need to replace the rest of the valve train. Most mags have said that it should be that last little bit on a NA car. You do everything else and have as much hp as you can get then P&P your intake and heads and throw in some cams but they dont come cheap.

 

[SVTHorsnake]

Hey SVT Chic, are you from rankmyride? I hate that site, I've never seen people so into beating people online with "battles"... it was so gay (in the non-homophobic way) and caring what ricers think:nonono:

nice to see you on a real site if you're the person I'm thinking of!:beer:

 

[VenomousSVT]

I have been pushing on doing cams for soo long now. I have called every company, asked every question you can think of. On average from what everyone at the companies have told me. On a pretty much stock n/a car you cant do anything more than a mild cam. With a mild cam your looking at picking up about 17 rwhp. The car if run with an agressive cam will actually lose more power than it gains. Average cost of real cams(not regrinds) is from 900-1300. Average price for installation is running around 1000-1500. For the most part all the cam manufacturers are producing the aftermarket cams based on the Fr500 cams specs. For the money it really isnt worth it hp wise. However you will pick up a nice choppy idle somewhat compareable to a b cam in a 5.0. Unfortunately the only cams that I have heard in mod cars that had a nice really aggressive lope like an e cam in a 5.0 were all blower cams. Back to one of my first statements, you need some major mods to be able to run that agressive of a cam in our cars.

hope this helps

Travis

 

[SVTHorsnake]

Originally posted by VenomousSVT
I have been pushing on doing cams for soo long now. I have called every company, asked every question you can think of. On average from what everyone at the companies have told me. On a pretty much stock n/a car you cant do anything more than a mild cam. With a mild cam your looking at picking up about 17 rwhp. The car if run with an agressive cam will actually lose more power than it gains. Average cost of real cams(not regrinds) is from 900-1300. Average price for installation is running around 1000-1500. For the most part all the cam manufacturers are producing the aftermarket cams based on the Fr500 cams specs. For the money it really isnt worth it hp wise. However you will pick up a nice choppy idle somewhat compareable to a b cam in a 5.0. Unfortunately the only cams that I have heard in mod cars that had a nice really aggressive lope like an e cam in a 5.0 were all blower cams. Back to one of my first statements, you need some major mods to be able to run that agressive of a cam in our cars.

hope this helps

Travis

I'm blown in two weeks, is it worth it then? I'm assuming it's F/I just exponentially multiplies the effects?

:beer:

 

[SVTHorsnake]

Originally posted by VenomousSVT
I have been pushing on doing cams for soo long now. I have called every company, asked every question you can think of. On average from what everyone at the companies have told me. On a pretty much stock n/a car you cant do anything more than a mild cam. With a mild cam your looking at picking up about 17 rwhp. The car if run with an agressive cam will actually lose more power than it gains. Average cost of real cams(not regrinds) is from 900-1300. Average price for installation is running around 1000-1500. For the most part all the cam manufacturers are producing the aftermarket cams based on the Fr500 cams specs. For the money it really isnt worth it hp wise. However you will pick up a nice choppy idle somewhat compareable to a b cam in a 5.0. Unfortunately the only cams that I have heard in mod cars that had a nice really aggressive lope like an e cam in a 5.0 were all blower cams. Back to one of my first statements, you need some major mods to be able to run that agressive of a cam in our cars.

hope this helps

Travis

I'm blown in two weeks, is it worth it then? I'm assuming it's F/I just exponentially multiplies the effects?

:beer:

 

[VenomousSVT]

ahh so i see your are getting robs blower..great buy on a great setup! With the blower cams people are picking up somewhere around 40rwhp with a half-ass tune.

 

[DNeinstadt]

Aren't there 4 cams in our cars?

Dan

 

[duane v]

I have Crower regrinds in my 4V and they are very aggressive. They are a custom grind that was desinged for socaldiablo that I think Shawn can only get. With these particular regrinds you will still be able to use the stock valve train components (springs, valves ect ect) for the lift numbers are at .452. But the advertised duration numbers are at 300 degrees which hang the valve open for some time. Since the idle is very agressive I had to purchase the FMS IAC valve adjustable spacer adapter, its also used on 5.0 engines that run X-cams, this device will help regulate the choppy idle. Also you will need either lash caps that assemble over the valve stem or machined washers that assemble under the valve tappets. I went with a .059 machined spacer under the valve tappet to get the correct lash. I installed my cams while the engine was still in the car and it took me approximately 12 hours to complete the install. If you go with billet cams then you wont have to use lash caps or machined spacers. IMO I llike the idea of the stock hollow cams, they are considerably lighter than the billet cams and cheaper...DA snake Boy!!