CA Smog Question

WhiteFaleen2001

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Background:
My car was down for many months and needed to get a new battery, in addition to the new motor and supporting mods :) After trying to get rid of the P1000 drive cycle code I got my car smogged many weeks ago. I passed the emissions part but was unable to complete the obd2 portion because not enough monitors were checked off. Upon buying a scanner, I uncovered that the EVAP system and Catalyst monitors weren't ready. After clearing the codes and finding the EVAP issue, I started the drive cycle again. After the first try, EGR, EVAP, and CATS were not ready. I finally got the EVAP to check green. Then I got the EGR to check green. Now I am stuck with CATS as INC. I have been trying to get it to clear but so far have not had any luck. Should I continue trying to check or am I just wasting my time? Question below.

Question:
Am I allowed to have 1 monitor (CATS) not ready and pass STAR smog in CA. I also have two monitors (HCAT and AIR) not/available on my car according to the scanner tool.
 

SNK_RATH

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How many miles have you driven the car ? I just went through the same thing .It took me about 125+ miles for everything to be ready .
 

Maverick-4

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Yes that's a good question, it took me quite a bit of driving to get all checks complete, the trick is that should be driving in different modes not all freeway miles, the more driving cycles you complete the closer you will get to have all monitors set
 

03 DSG Snake

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Are the rear 02s turned off in your tune? That will cause an issue with the CAT monitors.
 

WhiteFaleen2001

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As far as I know, they are turned on. The scanner is getting voltage readings for each o2. Plus my tuner took a look at the tune and said it didn't look like anything in the tune would prevent me from passing this check. I am not exactly sure how many miles are on it atm.
 

OCSnk

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RUNNING AN OBDII DRIVE CYCLE
Suppose you have "fixed" an emissions problem on an OBDII-equipped vehicle. How can you check your work? By performing what is called an "OBDII drive cycle."
The purpose of the OBDII drive cycle is to run all of the onboard diagnostics. The drive cycle should be performed after you have erased any trouble codes from the PCM memory, or after the battery has been disconnected. Running through the drive cycle sets all the system monitors so that subsequent faults can be detected.
The OBDII drive cycle begins with a cold start (coolant temperature below 122 degrees F and the coolant and air temperature sensors within 11 degrees of one another).
NOTE: The ignition key must not be on prior to the cold start otherwise the heated oxygen sensor diagnostic may not run.
1. As soon as the engine starts, idle the engine in drive for two and a half minutes with the A/C and rear defrost on. OBDII checks oxygen sensor heater circuits, air pump and EVAP purge.
2. Turn the A/C and rear defrost off, and accelerate to 55 mph at half throttle. OBDII checks for ignition misfire, fuel trim and canister purge.
3. Hold at a steady state speed of 55 mph for three minutes.
OBDII monitors EGR, air pump, O2 sensors and canister purge.
4. Decelerate (coast down) to 20 mph without braking or depressing the clutch. OBDII checks EGR and purge functions.
5. Accelerate back to 55 to 60 mph at half throttle. OBDII checks misfire, fuel trim and purge again.
6. Hold at a steady speed of 55 to 60 mph for five minutes.
OBDII monitors catalytic converter efficiency, misfire, EGR, fuel trim, oxygen sensors and purge functions.
7. Decelerate (coast down) to a stop without braking. OBDII makes a final check of EGR and canister purge.
===========================================================

Ford: Newer Ford owner’s manuals include a drive cycle, which is as follows:
The OBD-II system is designed to check the emission control system during normal driving. A complete
check may take several days. If the vehicle is not ready for E-Check testing, the following driving cycle
consisting of mixed city and highway driving should be performed:
15 minutes of steady driving on an expressway/highway followed by
20 minutes of stop-and-go driving with at least four 30-second idle periods.
Allow the vehicle to sit for at least eight hours without starting the engine. Then, start the engine and
complete the above driving cycle. The engine must warm up to its normal operating temperature. Once
started, do not turn off the engine until the above driving cycle is complete. If the vehicle is still not
ready for E-Check testing, the above driving cycle will have to be repeated.

More Info

http://ls1tech.com/forums/attachmen...ss-driving-procedure-obdii-readiness-test.gif

http://www.lyberty.com/car/drive-cycle.html
 

Benz_tech

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No, except for the air pump monitor we dont have that. Heated 02 sensors and catalyst monitors have to read ready. Just keep driving. I just passed cali smog and the catalyst monitor took the longest by far. I personally in my small
experience with monitors have not seen "INC" before. Ive seen read ready or not ready. Or if it failed it would set a catalyst efficeny check engine light code.
 

cobrakidz

High mileage R
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My DD is a star test only and I believe everything has to pass to be ok.......they pick on the "gross polluter" or whatever they call us.......
 

SNK_RATH

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RUNNING AN OBDII DRIVE CYCLE
Suppose you have "fixed" an emissions problem on an OBDII-equipped vehicle. How can you check your work? By performing what is called an "OBDII drive cycle."
The purpose of the OBDII drive cycle is to run all of the onboard diagnostics. The drive cycle should be performed after you have erased any trouble codes from the PCM memory, or after the battery has been disconnected. Running through the drive cycle sets all the system monitors so that subsequent faults can be detected.
The OBDII drive cycle begins with a cold start (coolant temperature below 122 degrees F and the coolant and air temperature sensors within 11 degrees of one another).
NOTE: The ignition key must not be on prior to the cold start otherwise the heated oxygen sensor diagnostic may not run.
1. As soon as the engine starts, idle the engine in drive for two and a half minutes with the A/C and rear defrost on. OBDII checks oxygen sensor heater circuits, air pump and EVAP purge.
2. Turn the A/C and rear defrost off, and accelerate to 55 mph at half throttle. OBDII checks for ignition misfire, fuel trim and canister purge.
3. Hold at a steady state speed of 55 mph for three minutes.
OBDII monitors EGR, air pump, O2 sensors and canister purge.
4. Decelerate (coast down) to 20 mph without braking or depressing the clutch. OBDII checks EGR and purge functions.
5. Accelerate back to 55 to 60 mph at half throttle. OBDII checks misfire, fuel trim and purge again.
6. Hold at a steady speed of 55 to 60 mph for five minutes.
OBDII monitors catalytic converter efficiency, misfire, EGR, fuel trim, oxygen sensors and purge functions.
7. Decelerate (coast down) to a stop without braking. OBDII makes a final check of EGR and canister purge.
===========================================================

Ford: Newer Ford owner’s manuals include a drive cycle, which is as follows:
The OBD-II system is designed to check the emission control system during normal driving. A complete
check may take several days. If the vehicle is not ready for E-Check testing, the following driving cycle
consisting of mixed city and highway driving should be performed:
15 minutes of steady driving on an expressway/highway followed by
20 minutes of stop-and-go driving with at least four 30-second idle periods.
Allow the vehicle to sit for at least eight hours without starting the engine. Then, start the engine and
complete the above driving cycle. The engine must warm up to its normal operating temperature. Once
started, do not turn off the engine until the above driving cycle is complete. If the vehicle is still not
ready for E-Check testing, the above driving cycle will have to be repeated.

More Info

http://ls1tech.com/forums/attachmen...ss-driving-procedure-obdii-readiness-test.gif

http://www.lyberty.com/car/drive-cycle.html

Wow! That's very detailed ! I wish I would have known that info before my last smog fiasco .. Thanks for the info !
 

spitin venom

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I just went through all the smog BS a few months ago. If the law has not changed for 2014 you are allowed 1 not ready code. The hardest one to pass is usually the EVAP system. My CAT test would not set to ready and it ended up being the tune. As soon as I loaded the tune with the rear 02's turned on the CAT ready codes passed right away. I am not sure who tunes your car but I would have them check it again.
 

WhiteFaleen2001

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Well I had it tested anyways and it passed. I had to go yesterday since it was the last day I could go for my retest. I had 1 monitor not ready (catalyst monitor) and I was able to pass. For 2001 and newer (to an extent) you are allowed 1 monitor not ready. For 1996-2000, you are allowed 2 monitors not ready.
 

Wade_GT

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Bringing back an old thread... anyone with catted X pipe pass the new AB 2289 California smog test? I have a magnaflow catted x that used to be smog legal when i bought it back in 2003.
 

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