Built engine options

Cashbum

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I just recently had my engine swallow a grenade. Block is cracked in the #7 cylinder wall. 3 other cylinders are low on compression. I know the aluminator is a great long block option. Who else is out there besides MMR? Livernois build coyote engines? I just want a reliable engine that will handle some power later down the road
 

grnenvy

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MMR did a real nice job on my motor at a decent price. The other two options mentioned are awesome also but imop one doesn't have the best of parts and the other is a little to expensive. Have fun!
 

ALLKHEINZ

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had an 11:1 Alluminator, loved it, melted #8 plug, fueling issue, pretty sure I went lean with a bad bap but I dunno 100%....sold it hurt and dropped for another alluminator this time the 9.5:1 and am getting the JPC triple 465lph return system soon.... turn key drop in motor for under $8k shipped is near impossible to find anywhere...
 

Sof Top

boost junkie!
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I just recently had my engine swallow a grenade. Block is cracked in the #7 cylinder wall. 3 other cylinders are low on compression. I know the aluminator is a great long block option. Who else is out there besides MMR? Livernois build coyote engines? I just want a reliable engine that will handle some power later down the road

Where at in Texas are you? John Monn@CTM has built many coyote motors and very reputable in south and central TX.
 

NTXRockr

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I just ordered a Livernois 11.5:1 pro series, went through the same logical decision process as you are now. Only reason I didn't go with aluminator is that I haven't seen or heard of anyone spraying nitrous on it - it'll hold 1000-1300whp+ of boost apparently, but nitrous can be a little different as far as harshness goes. As far as mmr, many have great results with them but still quite a few have early failures so I didn't want to drop $4k on that greater chance (though the Black Friday $3100 offer for their 1000 shortblock was tempting...). As far as L&M, JPC/RGR, and many other reputable builders abound, most were charging $6-10k just for a built shortblock...which swayed me back to the aluminator choice for a week or two.

I finally pulled the trigger on Black Friday with Livernois as they seem to offer the best in quality, overall package, at the lowest price (~$5300 shipped) and a decent turnaround time...and after discussions with all of the various builders and other racers I know I shouldn't fry a piston or snap a rod with their build as the block will pop before them (just like it would on an aluminator beyond 1000hp).

Point is, if you're shooting for 500-800whp consistently on a boosted application, I personally would go with the 11:1 aluminator. If you plan on going with a bigger blower (i.e. lots of air volume) or 800-1000whp+ you might look into the 9.5:1 aluminator or a built shortblock to fit your needs. Anything over 1000hp I wouldn't chance it, and would go built for the added assurance plus the option for cylinder sleeving, filling the block, as well as your custom piston/rod setup that'll handle anything you throw at it.
 

Cashbum

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I don't know as of now if I can go the short block route. I haven't seen my heads yet. My car is at ford but I'm pullin her out to take care of it myself. Shit hit the fan and it's an expensive learning experience. I can't tell much details right now
 

NTXRockr

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I don't know as of now if I can go the short block route. I haven't seen my heads yet. My car is at ford but I'm pullin her out to take care of it myself. Shit hit the fan and it's an expensive learning experience. I can't tell much details right now

I'm in the exact same boat haha. I'm letting ford look at it now on the slight chance they'll warranty it due to the wrist pins being the weak link on the 2011 cars. My puncture through the block was low in the valley on top of the motor so I'm hedging my bets that the rod/wrist pin failed and the piston protected the head from the majority of the shrapnel. A buddy assures me that even if there's a nick in the head that we can fix it, plus I plan on back cutting my valves and upgrading valve stems so its gonna get looked at regardless.

If yours is damaged near the top, pop the intake off and look at the valves for a quick glance (can't see the exhaust valves but 50/50 is better than nothing). Valves might be busted or you may see shrapnel in the chamber, which may give you a better idea of damage. If there's any damage likely to the head I'd personally jump on the aluminator (see my criteria above lol) but because mine was so low I decided to take the chance and build for the future upgrade in power now...
 

Cashbum

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Ford wanted to tear mine down to look at it with a chance of warranty covering it but said if its denied I have to pay for all the labor. 22hrs of it. I'm not taking the chance of paying a 2-3k bill just to get my car back because they denied the warranty claim. They keep telling me it looks like they won't cover it. Ford that is because the dealership called me saying it was covered at first. When they ordered my new engine, Ford told them to tear into it and determine what to do. I told them to stop
 

NTXRockr

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Yeah, same bs here. They basically tear it down to hold you hostage then try to find something to void it on. Some of the stuff the previous owner did to my car, they tried to say I did to it and said that would void the warranty...stupid stuff like marker marks in the trunk area, or my air vent my kiddo broke and I left open instead of putting a gauge pod in. Really petty stuff.

What power and mods are you planning for the new motor?
 

racerat

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How about a Boss shortblock or longblock from Ford? Is that a viable option?

Depends on how much power you want. Apparently the rods fail once you get past the 900rwhp mark.

DSC_0159.jpg
 
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Cashbum

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Last I checked the boss long block is up there price wise. Eventually I wanted to run a single turbo. I don't wanna get a low comp engine right now because I like to drive it hard. I'm leaning toward the NA aluminator now since like allkeinz said its a drop in turnkey crate engine
 

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