Broken motor mount bolt

[Ted Schultz]

ARGH! Trying to remove the tranny today to install my new T-45 in my 99 Cobra, and now I've hit a big roadblock.

I was trying to get the top two tranny bolts out. I got the one on the drivers side, but was having a lot of trouble with the one of the passengers side. I thought if I were able to tip the tranny down just a little further that I would be able to get it, so I proceeded to "loosen" the motor mount to engine block bolts on each side, thinking this may help me. I got the pass side loose with no problem, went to the drivers side, and SNAP :cuss: . The front drivers side motor mount to engine block stud snapped right off.

Not sure what the heck I am going to do now. I'm thinking I am going to have to pull the engine - but I wonder if it would be easier to remove the front k member so I can get in there with a drill and drill the bolt out.

Any thoughts? How hard is the front k member to remove?
Wonder what would happen if I can the car with only 1 bolt.

Thanks for any advice.

 

[mikey99cobra]

k member is easy to remove, find a LT header install guide and follow the directions to drop the k member. should take about an hour if you have never done it before.

 

[CY98Cobra]

K-member is easy to drop. Took me about 1.5 hours.
-Remove the wheels, springs, struts, calipers, rotors, sway bar endlinks, abs sensors and the tie rod ends from the control arm.
-Support the motor from above.
-Remove the bolts that hold the steering rack to the k-member. Pull the steering rack forward and tie it to the sway bar. Do not disconnect the lines.
-Mark the location where the k-member sits with a piece of chalk or paint pen.
-Remove the 8 bolts that hold the k-member (while supporting the k-member from below). 2 above each spring and two on each framerail towards the rear.
-Drop the k-member.

Before any of that though, buy some longtubes and a midpipe to fit if you don't have them. They are very easy to install with the k-member dropped.

 

[Ted Schultz]

Thanks for the tips guys. I'm going to go ahead and try to get this tranny out and put the new one back in before I start on the engine mount stud. (so I have the tranny in there to support the rear of the engine when I remove the k-member)

I cant believe how tight these @#$! tranny bolts are! I went to Sears last night and bought a 1/2 " swivel socket, and couldn't break the bolt lose for anything. So I threw my 14" 1/2" breaker bar on there (what I used to get the drivers side top tranny bolt to break loose) and snap the swivel went. Going back to Sears today to trade that in. They are probably getting sick of me - I was just in there yesterday getting replacements for my 15mm 3/8" deep and shallow sockets that I broke trying to get the front brake caliper brackets off last weekend! <g>

My luck the tranny bolt is going to snap off in the engine too.

 

[CY98Cobra]

I think the tranny bolts have loctite on them. At least mine did when I swapped. I have also read somewhere that says you should use loctite when putting the tranny bolts back in.

 

[Ted Schultz]

I finally got the tranny bolt out today. Broke another 1/2" swivel socket though. Went back to Sears and bought an impact swivel and an impact 1/2" 6pt socket. Got the breaker bar pulled back and then BANG, sounded like someone threw a jar of marbles under the car as extensions and adapters flew all over the place. I was thinking "Ok, what broke now" but much to my surprise all the tools were still intact and the bolt was finally loose!

Now for the K-Member! Maybe I should trade in my Craftman tools for snap-on's before tackling that job!

 

[trplblacksnake]

I honestly wouldnt trade my Craftman set for snap-ons any day. Only reason is if I need a tool I need it NOW not whenever the snapon guy comes around.