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<blockquote data-quote="REX-RACER" data-source="post: 1825232" data-attributes="member: 14222"><p>Not to contradict SnakeEyes 'cause he seems to really know his $hit and he puts up a lot of good tech info for us hear ( and I'm sure he knows this ) but . . . </p><p></p><p>It is my understanding that a good CAI like the JLT will lean out the air/fuel ratio a tad bit. The reason this isn't such a big deal normally is because: 1). Our cars come from the the factory w/ an intentionally rich tune because that's safe and, 2). The ECU can handle air intake in a certain range and adjust the injector pulse to compensate for more incoming air.</p><p></p><p>If I remember correctly the stock A/F ratio is set at something like 11.5/1 at idle and then gets way rich at WOT, like 10/1 because it's a safe way to prevent detonation and control for real world factors that can't be accounted for at the factory like inferior octane, air temp, barrometric pressure, etc. This is why wide band O2 measurement is such a big deal when getting a dyno tune. One of the first things most dyno tuners do, especially on an N/A car is lean up the A/F ratio on the top end.</p><p></p><p>Like I said it's "safe" to do this w/ in a range and a CAI will usually add about a half a point, to a point to the A/F ratio so that it may come out to about 12/1 w/ out changing the factory tune. I've heard that some people have had problems w/ adding a CAI and a bigger MAF and running into a lean condition that caused detonation and driveability issues. Some folks have had these problems in using a larger MAF housing in conjuction w/ the factory electronics. It would appear that the way to go w/ this is to get a MAF w/ it's own dedicated electronics.</p><p></p><p>Any tinkering of the A/F ratio via the tunning should be left to someone who knows what they are doing as a too lean condition will cause detonation and that leads straight to broken parts!</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="REX-RACER, post: 1825232, member: 14222"] Not to contradict SnakeEyes 'cause he seems to really know his $hit and he puts up a lot of good tech info for us hear ( and I'm sure he knows this ) but . . . It is my understanding that a good CAI like the JLT will lean out the air/fuel ratio a tad bit. The reason this isn't such a big deal normally is because: 1). Our cars come from the the factory w/ an intentionally rich tune because that's safe and, 2). The ECU can handle air intake in a certain range and adjust the injector pulse to compensate for more incoming air. If I remember correctly the stock A/F ratio is set at something like 11.5/1 at idle and then gets way rich at WOT, like 10/1 because it's a safe way to prevent detonation and control for real world factors that can't be accounted for at the factory like inferior octane, air temp, barrometric pressure, etc. This is why wide band O2 measurement is such a big deal when getting a dyno tune. One of the first things most dyno tuners do, especially on an N/A car is lean up the A/F ratio on the top end. Like I said it's "safe" to do this w/ in a range and a CAI will usually add about a half a point, to a point to the A/F ratio so that it may come out to about 12/1 w/ out changing the factory tune. I've heard that some people have had problems w/ adding a CAI and a bigger MAF and running into a lean condition that caused detonation and driveability issues. Some folks have had these problems in using a larger MAF housing in conjuction w/ the factory electronics. It would appear that the way to go w/ this is to get a MAF w/ it's own dedicated electronics. Any tinkering of the A/F ratio via the tunning should be left to someone who knows what they are doing as a too lean condition will cause detonation and that leads straight to broken parts! [/QUOTE]
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