I have aftermarket drilled and slotted rotors with fairly new semi mettalic brake pads. I will be attending my first open track event this year. Do I need to get a new track specific pad? If not when I wear down these pads what do you recommed for street/track use. The car is not a daily driver, but want good braking on the street and the track.
Brake pads
- Thread starter DarkSnake
- Start date
Replace the Drilled/Slotted rotors with some Solid blanks with internal vents and pick up some Hawk HPS or HP+ (track specific pads, the HP+) and call it a day. People also like EBC Green Stuff or EBC Red Stuff. Go with stock pads for the rear. If possible try to duct air into the front brakes to help cool them and the rears if possible.
+1 on the dumping of the rotors for blanks.
As for pads, I'm sure there will be varying opinions, but the general rule of thumb is essentially that the better the pad is at what it does, the more noise and dust it will make.
If you are driving say, 5/10ths (that is to say with half of your full intensity), then the HP+ pad is fine for your application. If you ratchet up the intensity, you will find the HP+ inadequate once your rotors start seeing the really hot temps. Still, it is a good pad to use if you are starting out. I have run almost every pad available and have settled on the Cobalt XR2. For a full weight Cobra like mine, it has lasted the longest and provided amazing performance, no bedding required (which was a prime selling point for me)...you just slap them on and go. I got 6 full track days out of my last front set, and my rear set aren't even half way used.
They dust like a son of a gun, and sound like a trolley coming to a stop on the street.
...but I don't care.... On track they perform like you threw a boat anchor out the back.
As for pads, I'm sure there will be varying opinions, but the general rule of thumb is essentially that the better the pad is at what it does, the more noise and dust it will make.
If you are driving say, 5/10ths (that is to say with half of your full intensity), then the HP+ pad is fine for your application. If you ratchet up the intensity, you will find the HP+ inadequate once your rotors start seeing the really hot temps. Still, it is a good pad to use if you are starting out. I have run almost every pad available and have settled on the Cobalt XR2. For a full weight Cobra like mine, it has lasted the longest and provided amazing performance, no bedding required (which was a prime selling point for me)...you just slap them on and go. I got 6 full track days out of my last front set, and my rear set aren't even half way used.
They dust like a son of a gun, and sound like a trolley coming to a stop on the street.
...but I don't care.... On track they perform like you threw a boat anchor out the back.
Not a fan of EBC pads. Tried the greens years ago on a SVT Contour. No better or not as good as whatever Ford put on stock.
I agree, get rid of the drilled rotors. I was just at the Rolex 24 and there were dimples and slots but no drilled rotors, I could see.
Just too easy to break one. On a 800 lb formula car, maybe.
I like Hawk pads. Used them for years. Mintex (Ferodo) on my Formula Ford car.
HPS are a good street/ autoX/ 8/10 track pad. You can overheat them on track- especially if you insist on left foot braking, which I don't like-, but work well everywhere else.
HP+ are good autoX/ 9/10 track pad, but they are noisey cold (squeal) and will wear rotors more quickly on a daily driver or street driven car.
I used Blues front on my A/Sedan car for VIR and they do OK.
I currently use DTC-70 front and HP+ rears (always have), but I have a manual brake bias valve.
DTC-70 is overkill on just about anything.
Dedicated track car, Blues front, HP+ rear and get a brake bias valve- you can plumb it under the hood.
Sometime street car, HP+ front and rear.
Good luck.
I agree, get rid of the drilled rotors. I was just at the Rolex 24 and there were dimples and slots but no drilled rotors, I could see.
Just too easy to break one. On a 800 lb formula car, maybe.
I like Hawk pads. Used them for years. Mintex (Ferodo) on my Formula Ford car.
HPS are a good street/ autoX/ 8/10 track pad. You can overheat them on track- especially if you insist on left foot braking, which I don't like-, but work well everywhere else.
HP+ are good autoX/ 9/10 track pad, but they are noisey cold (squeal) and will wear rotors more quickly on a daily driver or street driven car.
I used Blues front on my A/Sedan car for VIR and they do OK.
I currently use DTC-70 front and HP+ rears (always have), but I have a manual brake bias valve.
DTC-70 is overkill on just about anything.
Dedicated track car, Blues front, HP+ rear and get a brake bias valve- you can plumb it under the hood.
Sometime street car, HP+ front and rear.
Good luck.
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Hmmmmmm.
Try this:
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/search.php?searchid=4523604
:thumbsup::coolman::beer:
Ditto!
Contact Dan Puskar at CarboTech Brakes (www.CTBrakes.com) for assistance with pads and drop the drilled, slotted rotors. Today's pad compounds generally negate the necessity for such rotors.
Feff
Ok, what is happening is these are searches and they expire after a short period of time.
Here's what you need to do.
Click on the 'search this forum' button and go to 'advanced'
type in pads into 'keywords' field and in dropdown menu select 'in thread titles'
click search and read results
:thumbsup::coolman::beer:
Another vote for Carbotech. I run the XP10s on front and XP8s on the rear. I have a set of XP12s/XP10s that I have yet to install (or need).
+57 on getting rid of the bling-bling rotors.
+57 on getting rid of the bling-bling rotors.
With Carbotech, you get a known excellent performer, pad after pad after pad. With EBC, you're the guinea pig. They keep changing the compounds over time. Who knows, maybe they've actually arrived at something serviceable for once. Me? I'll stick with Carbotech. They work beatifully. And they're rotor-friendly.
Carbotech here also
Alright, once again, I will be the odd ball. I actually like the EBC pads. You have to use the Yellow pads though. The Green are equivalent to the HPS pads and the Reds are ceramic, no dust street pads. I used the Yellows with great success in HPDE2. They make less dust than stock, work great when cold, and they never faded. Even on Summit Shenandoha track, which is a lot of turns and few straights. I would highly recomend them for anyone starting out and wanting to also use them on the street.
Since I installed the Coleman Racing brakes, I bought from Bruce, I have been using Performance Friction. I started with the 90 compound, which are good for the street in my opinion, and maybe an HPDE1 driver. I switched to the 97 compound wich are less prone to fade. Both of these make stock level of dust and work very well when cold.
I would recomend any of these pads for a street/track pad. They are easy on the rotors and only the 97 make a slight bit of noise.
For this year I have switched to the Hawk DTC70s for the front, and the DTC60s for the rear.
Since I installed the Coleman Racing brakes, I bought from Bruce, I have been using Performance Friction. I started with the 90 compound, which are good for the street in my opinion, and maybe an HPDE1 driver. I switched to the 97 compound wich are less prone to fade. Both of these make stock level of dust and work very well when cold.
I would recomend any of these pads for a street/track pad. They are easy on the rotors and only the 97 make a slight bit of noise.
For this year I have switched to the Hawk DTC70s for the front, and the DTC60s for the rear.
no luck i think svtperformance.com hates me:cryying:
DarkSnake,
What track are you going to?
How new is your brake fluid?
What tires are you running?
What track are you going to?
How new is your brake fluid?
What tires are you running?
I need to do a bit more research here soon as I want to go to summit point or VIR for one of the events that I can get some in class and in car instruction. After that I'd like to go to some organized events with SVTOA and other groups.
Brake fluid was flushed several months ago, but will change prior to first track day.
I guess I am going to get Falken RT 615's for now.
Let me know your thoughts.
I like the Falkens for track days and autoX, although they overheat fairly easy.
Have also had good luck with Kumho Victoracers and 700's. Used them for Time Trials and autoX for years. Cheap and last and don't go away as quickly as the Falkens. :thumbsup:
I road race on Hoosiers, R-6's now. Looks like close to $1,000 a set this year. :dw: Can't buy Goodyears anymore.
BTW
for brake fluid, I used FORD HD for years. Understand the Motorcraft HD replaced it. Maybe not as good, but should work for track days/ daily driver just fine, still. I bought a case the last time I got some for like $3.00 a bottle. Down to 2 bottles now.
Wilwood 600 is what I use in the race car now.
Have also had good luck with Kumho Victoracers and 700's. Used them for Time Trials and autoX for years. Cheap and last and don't go away as quickly as the Falkens. :thumbsup:
I road race on Hoosiers, R-6's now. Looks like close to $1,000 a set this year. :dw: Can't buy Goodyears anymore.
BTW
for brake fluid, I used FORD HD for years. Understand the Motorcraft HD replaced it. Maybe not as good, but should work for track days/ daily driver just fine, still. I bought a case the last time I got some for like $3.00 a bottle. Down to 2 bottles now.
Wilwood 600 is what I use in the race car now.
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Here's a list of those groups I know of that are putting on High Performance Driving Schools/HPDE at Summit Point and VIR...
Welcome to NASA Mid Atlantic
https://www.asphaltventures.com/
MVP Track Time
Mazda Driving Associates, LLC Mazda Drivers www.MazdaDriverS.com high speed drivers education hpde track events
https://www.trackdaze.com/
Welcome to TrackGuys!!
http://www.scca.org/contentpage.aspx?content=36
SVT Owners Association - SVTOA Events
I'm sure I left some out.
It sounds like you're working stuff out. There's a lot to take in your first time out, being prepared helps a lot.
I have the Falkin 615's on my car for street, and hope to get some skid pad time with them (BFG R1 for the track). And I like Hawk pads and the ATE Blue fluid. Just make sure what you use is fresh and has a high boiling point.
You won't believe how much fun it is! :banana:
Welcome to NASA Mid Atlantic
https://www.asphaltventures.com/
MVP Track Time
Mazda Driving Associates, LLC Mazda Drivers www.MazdaDriverS.com high speed drivers education hpde track events
https://www.trackdaze.com/
Welcome to TrackGuys!!
http://www.scca.org/contentpage.aspx?content=36
SVT Owners Association - SVTOA Events
I'm sure I left some out.
It sounds like you're working stuff out. There's a lot to take in your first time out, being prepared helps a lot.
I have the Falkin 615's on my car for street, and hope to get some skid pad time with them (BFG R1 for the track). And I like Hawk pads and the ATE Blue fluid. Just make sure what you use is fresh and has a high boiling point.
You won't believe how much fun it is! :banana:
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