brake kit suggestions

[GO_N_H.A.M]

so when I bought my gt500 and the tech just gave me a warno that the brakes might need to be replaced within the next oil change or so. well, I'm looking into just some what upgrading since stock brembos cost about the same as other aftermarket parts.

TPS Stage 2 Brake Upgrade Kit-Mustang 05-12 GT500 Brembo (SLOTTED/ DIMPLED ROTORS)

I saw this kit and well slotted and dimpled with new pads, lines and fluids for 600 seems like a steal.

I would like the wilwood 2 piece rotor kit from shelby performance website buy this other kit allows me to free up funds to upgrade the reservoirs and heat exchanger as well.

any useful thoughts or recommendations would be greatly appreciated.

 

[zimm17]

subscribed...

I hope an FRPP comes out with the 2013 GT500 brembos....

 

[GO_N_H.A.M]

like a 2 piece rotor with upgraded pads and what not^^^^

???

edit: this is the one I want

Shelby GT500 Brake Rotor Upgrade Kit

 

[zimm17]

No... 2013 has 6 piston brembos over the 4 pistons we have.

 

[GO_N_H.A.M]

Oh okay, yea my thing is I don't road race i would just like to know I have a "better" set up over stock. the only down side I could think of though would be turnig the rotors when the pads wear down, I don't know of any one near me I fort hood who would machine slotted and dimpled.

 

[A DuB]

In my experience, slotted/dimpled rotors are not superior to blank rotors. Mostly a show car thing. If you want better than stock, do a ss line and pad pad upgrade.

 

[GO_N_H.A.M]

well even if not superior to blank rotors, at the price they're being sold at, I couldnt only get rotors at that price from places like oreillys and autozone which isn't going to happen.

the basic propose behind the slotted and drilled rotor does make sense, being able to keep the rotors cooler is what you want to minimize brake fade. I just don't see the point of an oem replacement.

 

[A DuB]

the basic propose behind the slotted and drilled rotor does make sense, being able to keep the rotors cooler is what you want to minimize brake fade. I just don't see the point of an oem replacement.

From a performance standpoint you do not want drilled/slotted. If you want performance then go with a blank rotor with aluminum hats, stainless lines, and a good pad. If you plan on tracking the car upgrade the fluid too. If not it would be a waste of time and effort as you would have to bleed race fluid every few months

 

[GO_N_H.A.M]

i've never heard of motul needing to be flushed every few months....

 

[A DuB]

i've never heard of motul needing to be flushed every few months....

You must not be talking to the right people...

Racing fluid holds moisture. Moisture in the fluid is bad. From what im reading (you dont road race) - it would be a complete waste to even bother with fluid as you will never see brake temps above 300 with street driving. There would be no risk of brake fade... ever. Even with the complete stock setup you wouldnt have brake fade on the street. It took me 3, 25min sessions of 400+ temps for my stock brakes to fail (boil fluid), and that was on a race track.
Bottom line is, its your car - do with it as you wish.

 

[E.Marquez]

You must not be talking to the right people...

Racing fluid holds moisture. Moisture in the fluid is bad. From what im reading (you dont road race) - it would be a complete waste to even bother with fluid as you will never see brake temps above 300 with street driving. There would be no risk of brake fade... ever. Even with the complete stock setup you wouldnt have brake fade on the street. It took me 3, 25min sessions of 400+ temps for my stock brakes to fail (boil fluid), and that was on a race track.
Bottom line is, its your car - do with it as you wish.

Brake fluid, one of my favorite topics..
All brake fluid except DOT 5 silicone is hydroscopic (meaning it absorbs moisture.

If you are racing, then you replace your brake fluid as you would the oil and filter, check the brake pads, service the drive line, tires, suspension, intake,, .. pre race prep ...

Brake fluid change every 6 months is not a bad idea for any vehicle, it’s excessive for most, but it would not be a bad thing to remove moisture laden fluid that promotes corrosion, and has a lowering boiling point then fresh "dry" fluid.

Every fluid will have a "WET" and "Dry" boiling point.

The higher boiling point wet, the better the fluid in most uses.
Unless your changing your fluid before every use (Like every racer I've ever know , supported)
It would be smart to flush fluid before every play day open track session. As it would be for anybody running the car at full tilt and wanting the best possible performance from the brakes at hand.
I wrote the below for a motorcycle site, but the info transfers over.

There are some other names and brands now, so I do need to make it specific to what car enthusiast use (as far as boiling points) and there are some new synthetics (synthetics, not DOT 5 Silicone) on the market, dot 3's that have some nice looking numbers..

DOT3

DOT3 brake fluid is the "conventional" brake fluid used in most vehicles.

Advantages:

DOT3 fluid is inexpensive.

Disadvantages:

DOT3 fluid eats paint!
DOT3 fluid absorbs water very readily. (This is often referred to as being hydroscopic.) As such, once a container of DOT3 has been opened, it should not be stored for periods much longer than a week before use.
Since DOT3 fluid absorbs water, any moisture absorbed by the fluid can encourage corrosion in the brake lines and cylinders.

DOT4

DOT4 brake fluid is the brake fluid suggested for use in some late model cars.

Advantages:

DOT4 fluid is available at most auto parts stores, and at some (but not all) gas stations or department stores.
DOT4 fluid does not absorb water as readily as DOT3 fluid.
DOT4 fluid has a higher boiling point than DOT3 fluid, making it more suitable for high performance applications where the brake systems are expected to get hot.

Disadvantages:

DOT4 fluid eats paint!
DOT4 fluid is generally about 50% more expensive than DOT3 fluid.
Since DOT4 fluid still absorbs some water, any moisture absorbed by the fluid can encourage corrosion in the brake lines and cylinders.

DOT5

DOT5 brake fluid is also known as "silicone" brake fluid.

Advantages:

DOT5 doesn't eat paint.
DOT5 does not absorb water and may be useful where water absorption is a problem.
DOT5 is compatible with all rubber formulations. (See more on this under disadvantages, below.)

Disadvantages:

DOT5 does NOT mix with DOT3, DOT4 or DOT5.1. Most reported problems with DOT5 are probably due to some degree of mixing with other fluid types. The best way to convert to DOT5 is to totally rebuild the hydraulic system. Reports of DOT5 causing premature failure of rubber brake parts were more common with early DOT5 formulations. This is thought to be due to improper addition of swelling agents and has been fixed in recent
formulations.
Since DOT5 does not absorb water, any moisture in the hydraulic system will "puddle" in one place. This can cause localized corrosion in the hydraulics.
Careful bleeding is required to get all of the air out of the system. Small bubbles can form in the fluid that will form large bubbles over time. It may be necessary to do a series of bleeds.
DOT5 is slightly compressible (giving a slightly soft feeling in the lever), and has a lower boiling point than DOT4.
DOT5 is about twice as expensive as DOT4 fluid. It is also difficult to find, generally only available at selected auto parts stores.

DOT5.1

DOT5.1 is a relatively new brake fluid that is causing no end of confusion amongst mechanics. The DOT could avoid a lot of confusion by giving this new fluid a different designation. The 5.1 designation could lead one to believe that it's a modification of silicone-based DOT 5 brake fluid. Calling it 4.1 or 6 might have been more appropriate since it's a glycol-based fluid like the DOT 3 and 4 types, not silicone-based like DOT 5 fluid.

As far as the basic behavior of 5.1 fluids, they are much like "high performance" DOT4 fluids, rather than traditional DOT5 brake fluids.

Advantages:

DOT5.1 provides superior performance over the other brake fluids discussed here. It has a higher boiling point, either dry or wet, than DOT 3 or 4. In fact, its dry boiling point (about 275 degrees C) is almost as high as racing fluid (about 300 degrees C) and 5.1's wet boiling point (about 175 to 200 degrees C) is naturally much higher than racing's (about 145 C). DOT5.1 is said to be compatible with all rubber formulations.

Disadvantages:

DOT 5.1 fluids (and Spectro's Supreme DOT4) are non-silicone fluids and will absorb water.
DOT 5.1 fluids, like DOT3 & DOT4 will eat paint.
DOT 5.1 fluids are sometimes difficult to find for sale locally, typically at very few auto parts stores, mostly limited to "speed shops." So buy it on line, it's cheaper, easy to find that way, and delivered to your door.
DOT 5.1 will be more expensive than DOT3 or DOT4, and more difficult to find.

 

[E.Marquez]

In my experience, slotted/dimpled rotors are not superior to blank rotors. Mostly a show car thing. If you want better than stock, do a ss line and pad pad upgrade.

Drilled rotors are fashion, and old school ideas on what would help vent gases that build up between the pad and rotor in hard use.

Dimpled or slotted or other non drilled methods still have the disadvantage of reducing swept surface area vice a blank rotor, BUT they can aid in venting gases present in some pad materials (not likely used in a modern race car or performance set up) and can help shed water.. On a daily driver / open track car.. Never a bad idea.

Even with 14in front rotors and 4 piston calipers, and air ducts forcing clean cooler air to the rotor… smoking the brakes on a 4000 lb car at track speeds is easy if your driving deep, braking late. Driving the car within its limits means you’re not smoking the brakes to brake fade point, but finding the quickest way around the track. But I can boil fluid in a GT500 (my S197 GT has the same brakes) at will on the track, or aggressive street driving, if that’s what I let myself do.

SS lines, clean fresh fluid, non drilled rotors (I choose dimpled or slotted not BOTH, excepting a slight loss of surface area for better shedding of water as my cars are daily drivers, and rain will be driven in)

The kit the OP linked to has MOTUL DOT 5.1 fluid (what i run in my cars, truck, street bikes, track bikes, off road bikes)
I really like this stuff , the numbers are good wet and dry (not the best in either wet or dry , but very good when you look at a single fluid and BOTH wet and dry) It is priced right and widely available. Making it a great choice for yearly replacement on a DD or pre track day prep.
The kit has SS lines, and Nice Hawk pads... The rotors,, well, I think not the better choice, as I think the dimpled and slotted is addressing the same thing and not both needed, so they are reducing swept area with no advantage.. but they are a decent rotor at a great price point. And a daily driver not open tracked.. Likely just fine.

 

[GO_N_H.A.M]

wow, a lot of great info guys that is greatly appreciated. I'm definitely reading more into them and I'm slowly but surely coming across the info being posted. I'm hoping at the same time this thread helps others at the same time.

thanks

 

[doublex]

like a 2 piece rotor with upgraded pads and what not^^^^

???

edit: this is the one I want

Shelby GT500 Brake Rotor Upgrade Kit

Any comments on this Wilwood setup? How would the Wilwood rotors compare to something like the DBA4000's? I was looking at a non-2 piece upgrade, but the price is about the same for the whole kit with only the DBA single piece front rotors.... Will the coating on the Wilwood's come off with use?

Also, I see the Shelby kit comes with different stainless lines... are those the Boss 302 lines (can't quite tell from the pic)?

I don't track my car, so just spirited around town stuff.

 

[OsirisGT]

Look at Fulltiltboogie and get the 2 piece slotted rotors and new pads. If you are just on street or drag race this is more than enough.

 

[mullens]

In my experience, slotted/dimpled rotors are not superior to blank rotors. Mostly a show car thing. If you want better than stock, do a ss line and pad pad upgrade.

Maybe not superior but they do run cooler. When I had my SRT8 the rotors were warping prematurely due to heat. Mopar put out a TSB refitting all LX cars with slotted rotors. No more problems. Just ordered a pair for the Shelby.