Boss Stock front camber?

[FivePointOmg]

Had mine aligned recently...Mostly to correct the toe (obviously) on bone stock front suspension. So my camber is -2.1deg driver side and -1.7deg passenger side. Driver side slightly out of factory spec...I'm wondering if this is normal and if it's OK? I know the Boss suspension is supposed to be more aggressive than stock GT's...I'm also thinking of getting the maximum motorsports camber strut tops adjusters anyways to make both sides perfect...What are your experiences with Boss camber? Thanks :read:

 

[noldevin]

2.1 is pretty high for a street car. It's not the end of the world and a lot of people go -2 or even more for track or autocross use. You'd probably want to keep it around -1.5 to -1.0 for a nice handling street car that still keeps wear down.

Camber plates are never a bad idea, then you can adjust it to exactly where you want. The stock mounts only give you a tiny bit of adjustment room

 

[FivePointOmg]

2.1 is pretty high for a street car. It's not the end of the world and a lot of people go -2 or even more for track or autocross use. You'd probably want to keep it around -1.5 to -1.0 for a nice handling street car that still keeps wear down.

Camber plates are never a bad idea, then you can adjust it to exactly where you want. The stock mounts only give you a tiny bit of adjustment room

Thanks for the input. I'm thinking if camber plates help me get to -1.5 on both sides I'll be happy...which I think they will easily.

 

[bostonboss]

I mean mods are cool and all, but if your front suspension is bone stock you should not need camber plates to align to spec. Usually they are used to gain more camber than stock allows, or afford a modified car sufficient range of adjustment to be aligned back into spec.

 

[FivePointOmg]

I mean mods are cool and all, but if your front suspension is bone stock you should not need camber plates to align to spec. Usually they are used to gain more camber than stock allows, or afford a modified car sufficient range of adjustment to be aligned back into spec.

What's your recommendation then to get my driver side in factory spec on my completely factory front suspension? We've tested ball joints, inspected all front bushings and every part in the front suspension and everything feels perfect. For all I know it could be because the car is 5yrs old and over time parts sag and things happen that can push camber negative. High quality camber plates are the best way that I know to get everything perfect as there's no real camber adjustability in the factory setup...Unless you know something I don't?

 

[IamRacerX]

you have lowering springs... I assume your running camber bolts too.... Not sure why your toe would be off. You shouldn't have to run camber plates to get the alignment to factory spec.

 

[FivePointOmg]

you have lowering springs... I assume your running camber bolts too.... Not sure why your toe would be off. You shouldn't have to run camber plates to get the alignment to factory spec.

What's funny is I installed the front Steeda Boss springs yesterday and the car actually sits HIGHER than stock with the Steeda Boss springs up front...But anyways to my new surprise and the reason why I think my camber is off on driver side...

So we dig into the front struts yesterday and my mechanic Ken says hey Dave did you put this bolt in here like this.......oh sticking with the theme of this used Boss and surprises it looks like somebody lost the upper bolt/backing nut with tab and thought it would be OK to get the Home Depot special and stick it in there...So passenger side camber is perfect and driver side where I had the issue has the OEM lower bolt and the upper (the one that affects camber) is the ace hardware bolt with nut/washer that appears to be thinner than what should be in there...hence negative camber....So Monday I'll have the correct factory ford bolt/backing nut with tab that should be in there and I'm thinking that will be the fix for my camber on driver side.

I had the rear brakes done yesterday too because I was getting the metal harmonic sound from driver side rear brake area and of course more surprise the anti-rattle clips/metal tab around the brake pad was broken so I fixed that too. After the above bolt and these brakes I THINK I've sorted out the surprises in this used Boss lol...keeping my fingers crossed.:bored:

 

[IamRacerX]

Well there you go... Glad you figured that out. Perhaps your car was running lowering springs already, that might be why it sits higher with the not so low Steeda boss springs.

 

[FivePointOmg]

Well there you go... Glad you figured that out. Perhaps your car was running lowering springs already, that might be why it sits higher with the not so low Steeda boss springs.

Thanks man....I'm glad too...To me the springs we took out of the front/rear look 100% factory black...I've read in other threads/forums that the Steeda boss springs actually do make the front sit a tiny bit higher than stock which turned out to be true in my case...Even though Steeda claims they lower the front 0.2"...

 

[IamRacerX]

Gotcha... Glad it's all squared away!

 

[FivePointOmg]

Gotcha... Glad it's all squared away!

Update...Not perfect YET...got the factory upper strut bolt/nut in there today and alignment still too negative. Inspected every single component on front suspension, both sides look same and nothing looks damaged or bent. I ordered the Maximum Motorsports Caster/Camber plates and should have them Thurs. Will be installing those to get perfect alignment and be done fixing crap that previous owner screwed up for a while I hope...Keeping fingers crossed. Will update once the CC plates are on.