Fellow Boss drivers, I'm wanting to get involved with road racing this summer at a few of the local tracks. Can any of you provide some insight into how much I can expect it to cost me? Tires, Oil, Gas, Wear and Tear and so on are my main concerns for car expenses but I'm sure I'm missing some stuff. Then you have track fees, safety costs and so on.
Boss Road Racers…Come hither
- Thread starter Braden
- Start date
$50k per year.
Depending how often you track it tires, rotors, and pads could get expensive. You would want a dedicated set of wheels for your tires so you don't wear/heat cycle them driving to the track. My dad recently bought a set of BF Team Dynamics on sale for 1k and then tires for those were probably 1k. Rotors and pads were 700. Then changing diff and trans fluid was maybe 100, plus you may want to change your oil between each track day running at 60 a change. Can't comment on gas but these cars chug when running hard. So in a season of tracking minus the track costs would be about 4k maybe. My math may be a little conservative but I don't see it being 50k a year ha.
Set of forged race wheels (dry): $1700-2500
Set of forged race wheels (wet): $1700-2500
Set of sticker race tires (dry): $2000 (you can get by using a set for 2 race weekends but after that you won't win).
Assuming 10 races a year, then $10,000 in tires per season.
Set of sticker race tires (wet): $2000 - 1 set per season
Front rotors: $800 a pair (if you want good ones). Will last maybe 3 race weekends if you're lucky. $2400 a season
Rear rotors: $600 a pair. Will last 5 race weekends if your're lucky. $1200 a season
Fuel: $200 a race weekend x10 = $2000 a season, conservatively
Pads: $300 for front, $250 for rear. PER WEEKEND.$550 x 10 races = $5,550 in pads. Might be able to stretch rears for 2 weekends.
Fluids: Brake fluid. Use the best. $70 per bottle x 2, $140 per race weekend x 10 $1,400 per season in JUST BRAKE FLUID.
Oil $120-200 per case per weekend. Let's say $150 per race x 10 $1,500 in oil. Trans and diff are less, say $80 per race x 10 = $800.
Total Fluids per season: $1,400 + $1,500 + $800 = $3,700
Replacement parts: Brake lines, hoses, gears, bearings, etc. Let's budget $3,000.
Fees: $350 for race weekend x 10 = $3,500. If you do a test tune day (which you should) its another $300, so $650 x 10 = $6,500 in fees
Unless you do all your mechanical work, tune and alignments (you will need many), plan for $3-$5000 in labor. Conservatively.
Transportation: If you trailer your car (which you should), truck fuel will run $5,000 a year depending how far you live from track
Food & Lodging: Unless you grow your own crops and live in your trailer (both are highly recommended) budget another $3,000 in lodging and meals for the season.
All of this assumes you already have suit ($1,000), gloves ($200), shoes ($200), underwear ($300), a race prepped car with cage and safety equipment that is class legal ($20,000k). And car ($40k).
Get the best safety stuff, harnesses ($500), HANS ( $700), Helmet ($400-1,200), and Seat ($800). Fire suppression system ($900), etc.
I'm probably leaving stuff off. And of course, there are unexpected costs which I didn't list. Add it up.
Set of forged race wheels (wet): $1700-2500
Set of sticker race tires (dry): $2000 (you can get by using a set for 2 race weekends but after that you won't win).
Assuming 10 races a year, then $10,000 in tires per season.
Set of sticker race tires (wet): $2000 - 1 set per season
Front rotors: $800 a pair (if you want good ones). Will last maybe 3 race weekends if you're lucky. $2400 a season
Rear rotors: $600 a pair. Will last 5 race weekends if your're lucky. $1200 a season
Fuel: $200 a race weekend x10 = $2000 a season, conservatively
Pads: $300 for front, $250 for rear. PER WEEKEND.$550 x 10 races = $5,550 in pads. Might be able to stretch rears for 2 weekends.
Fluids: Brake fluid. Use the best. $70 per bottle x 2, $140 per race weekend x 10 $1,400 per season in JUST BRAKE FLUID.
Oil $120-200 per case per weekend. Let's say $150 per race x 10 $1,500 in oil. Trans and diff are less, say $80 per race x 10 = $800.
Total Fluids per season: $1,400 + $1,500 + $800 = $3,700
Replacement parts: Brake lines, hoses, gears, bearings, etc. Let's budget $3,000.
Fees: $350 for race weekend x 10 = $3,500. If you do a test tune day (which you should) its another $300, so $650 x 10 = $6,500 in fees
Unless you do all your mechanical work, tune and alignments (you will need many), plan for $3-$5000 in labor. Conservatively.
Transportation: If you trailer your car (which you should), truck fuel will run $5,000 a year depending how far you live from track
Food & Lodging: Unless you grow your own crops and live in your trailer (both are highly recommended) budget another $3,000 in lodging and meals for the season.
All of this assumes you already have suit ($1,000), gloves ($200), shoes ($200), underwear ($300), a race prepped car with cage and safety equipment that is class legal ($20,000k). And car ($40k).
Get the best safety stuff, harnesses ($500), HANS ( $700), Helmet ($400-1,200), and Seat ($800). Fire suppression system ($900), etc.
I'm probably leaving stuff off. And of course, there are unexpected costs which I didn't list. Add it up.
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So my post above is just the reality if you want to run all season. Of course you can manage your load and costs and its great to see people wanting to go this direction.
FYI. There is a road racing forum on this site too that is very helpful.
If you're discouraged by the costs then probably not the hobby for you.
FYI. There is a road racing forum on this site too that is very helpful.
If you're discouraged by the costs then probably not the hobby for you.
That makes sense when you itemize it, plus I think you are making a list for if he is professionally racing it, I was assuming he meant PDX/HPDE.
If you're talking about doing HPDE, your cost can bet roughly $500-1000 per weekend you run, depending on your tire selection.
If you're talking wheel to wheel, probably closer to $1500 per weekend once you have your car all prepared and non-consumable items purchased. Costs can go up from there if you have to tow long distances and/or stay at hotels.
If you're talking wheel to wheel, probably closer to $1500 per weekend once you have your car all prepared and non-consumable items purchased. Costs can go up from there if you have to tow long distances and/or stay at hotels.
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Darren are you really only getting 1 weekend out of your pads? What are you running? I can typically get 3 weekends out of fronts and rears last pretty much an entire season. (PF01 front PF97 rear, OEM Brembo calipers front and OEM rear calipers)
I use "cheap" OEM blanks for rotors, the fronts typically last about 5 weekends and rears 7-8 weekends, IIRC.
Your tracks out there might be more brake-intensive but even then the consumption rates you're describing are pretty crazy for anything other than endurance racing.
I use "cheap" OEM blanks for rotors, the fronts typically last about 5 weekends and rears 7-8 weekends, IIRC.
Your tracks out there might be more brake-intensive but even then the consumption rates you're describing are pretty crazy for anything other than endurance racing.
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Drew, I'm running Hawk DTC-70's/60's. Last time I was running 60's up front and they crystallized half way through and sounded like a wounded bear driving a rusty locomotive when braking. Had to ditch them with 50% left, they were flaking too. I think the 70's last long. They grip like hell but after they crystalize they're done. I have two sets of Ferodo's I managed to find I'm going to try. Higher temp than even the 70's but not sure about the bite. People say you can modulate them better, but I need "bite"!
The trouble with pads is you don't want to start a race with less than 50%, so if it's like 45% and you're running HPDE 3/4 sure, no problem. I got a box of 30-50% pads! lol
Rears do last longer. But for some reason, when I stop thinking about them they sneak up and are gone. lol. A lot depends on brake system, brake style, track, temps, etc as you know.
My rotors seem to last longer than most, but my pads less. Not sure what that means.
C.Cobetto, the NASA mid atlantic director (and former AI champ out here) would go through a set of pads AND rotors in a weekend (Baer 6 piston).
I now use Girodisc rotors, but VIR is a very fast track that favors aero so you are really pounding the brakes (uphill and downhill and trail braking). I also have upgraded brake booster and 14" rotors all around.
Summit Point is brutal on brakes too. Maybe its the elevation we have here compared to your region? VIR has like over a 100' of elevation. Also, morning to evening temps will vary by 30 degrees or more spring and fall.
The trouble with pads is you don't want to start a race with less than 50%, so if it's like 45% and you're running HPDE 3/4 sure, no problem. I got a box of 30-50% pads! lol
Rears do last longer. But for some reason, when I stop thinking about them they sneak up and are gone. lol. A lot depends on brake system, brake style, track, temps, etc as you know.
My rotors seem to last longer than most, but my pads less. Not sure what that means.
C.Cobetto, the NASA mid atlantic director (and former AI champ out here) would go through a set of pads AND rotors in a weekend (Baer 6 piston).
I now use Girodisc rotors, but VIR is a very fast track that favors aero so you are really pounding the brakes (uphill and downhill and trail braking). I also have upgraded brake booster and 14" rotors all around.
Summit Point is brutal on brakes too. Maybe its the elevation we have here compared to your region? VIR has like over a 100' of elevation. Also, morning to evening temps will vary by 30 degrees or more spring and fall.
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I thought he said 'road racing' (club level, not pro I assumed) which is not what PDX/HPDE is, but if he meant that, my bad! oops!
Drew's (AZBOSS) figure of $1500 per weekend is pretty accurate (he's a record setting racer btw) but its the lead in costs prior to that, that bite you and unexpected things too.
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I by no means am a hardcore road racer and have just started getting into it myself but its very expensive if you plan to be competitive in the sport. I think the best way to gauge how much you spend would be how many times you plan to hit the track a year.
I by no means am a hardcore road racer and have just started getting into it myself but its very expensive if you plan to be competitive in the sport. I think the best way to gauge how much you spend would be how many times you plan to hit the track a year.
Holy fack .... At that rate I will be doing ..... Carry the 2. That brings me to .4 road racing events a year hmmmmm
Give the PFC01/97 combo a try on your next go-around. I used to use the DTC70/60 combo and I have never looked back. Initial bite isn't as fierce with the 01s but they can tolerate another 4-500*F max temperature, and they work better as they get hotter. PFC supposedly have compounds "03" and "07" which have more initial bite but I have no experience with those.
If you're really replacing pads once per weekend, you can go back pretty easily if you don't like them
Yeah. That's a combo I'm going to try. I almost pulled the trigger on the PFC bbk that comes with those pads. I'll give them a whirl.
Oh man. In for pics.
This is the kit. It's essentially the Porsche Cup brakes but they have a one that fits our cars. I think Cortex sells them (not on their website), but I'm not getting this $7k kit anymore. Sticking with the brembos.
Yeah the Roush cars would run those when they were still in CTSCC.
That was a quick flip-flop.
That was a quick flip-flop.
Sometimes it feels like that.
I'm going to go with some previous advice I've given in the past: Don't add it up. Don't *ever* add it up!
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