Im looking to boost my 96 cobra im looking to make around 600hp I was thing MMR I just wanted to know how much boost it could hold
Boosted short block
- Thread starter Project96svt
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You're lacking a lot of details there, bro.
How much boost an engine can withstand depends on a lot of things.
How much boost an engine can withstand depends on a lot of things.
Thats what I wanted to know if I was looking for about 15 plus psi what else besides forged internals would I need
I know nothing about MMR's engines (as in I have no first hand experience with their engines).
To safely support 600whp in your 96, this is a quick, basic list.
Your block and crank will be just fine. You need a set of rods and pistons. What compression ratio pistons will depend on what type of fi you are going to go with. I highly recommend ARP head and main studs, as well as a good quality set of gead gaskets.
Don't forget to upgrade your fuel system. This seems to get overlooked, or maybe "put on the back burner" for awhile, but it's very important to have a quality fuel system to support that kind of power, and said system usually doesn't come cheap.
I have a 96 cobra as well, with forged Mahle ceramic coated pistons (8.8:1 cr), forged Eagle rods, ARP head/main studs, blower cams, full exhaust, and a T trim with 17+lbs. I have not had it on a dyno yet, but 600+ was my goal as well, and there is no reason I shouldn't have achieved that goal. So I am speaking from experience.
To safely support 600whp in your 96, this is a quick, basic list.
Your block and crank will be just fine. You need a set of rods and pistons. What compression ratio pistons will depend on what type of fi you are going to go with. I highly recommend ARP head and main studs, as well as a good quality set of gead gaskets.
Don't forget to upgrade your fuel system. This seems to get overlooked, or maybe "put on the back burner" for awhile, but it's very important to have a quality fuel system to support that kind of power, and said system usually doesn't come cheap.
I have a 96 cobra as well, with forged Mahle ceramic coated pistons (8.8:1 cr), forged Eagle rods, ARP head/main studs, blower cams, full exhaust, and a T trim with 17+lbs. I have not had it on a dyno yet, but 600+ was my goal as well, and there is no reason I shouldn't have achieved that goal. So I am speaking from experience.
SVTContique
New Member
15PSI on a T76 Turbo is much different than 15PSI on a P1SC.
Technically you need to understand how much CFM you are moving.
Technically you need to understand how much CFM you are moving.
I saw in one of the mm and ff mags the 76mm turbocharged gt could push 20+ psi with a 03/04 cobra block not saying thats what I want but it would be nice to have that option.
96S/Cobra's fuel system is awesome. I always go back to the writeup about it as thats what Im going to mirror mine after give or take a little.
The stock 96-99 Cobra teksid block can handle 1000hp and its aluminum, which saves nearly 100lbs over the 03-04 Cobra iron block. The cranks are the same 96-04.
What is your plan? Centri? Positive displacement? Turbo? The devil is in the details. IMO the easiest and cheapest way to get 600rwhp would be to buy a used 03-04 Cobra short block, use your stock heads but have them resurfaced, Get a used Procharger D1SC kit and 8 rib set up. 20 psi and you will have 600rwhp. You would also need to address the fuel system. You won't make any power without adequate fuel.
This would probably be the cheapest but not the direction I would go because of the 8.5.1 compression of the 03-04 Cobra short block. For a centri 9.5.1 would be the lowest in compression I would go.
I was wanting to go with a single turbo and use my stock block fit the mmr forged rotating assembly that will be started when I get done with my move in the next few months
Thanks, I appreciate that. It may not be the most "eye appealing" fuel system build, but I had done my research, pieced everything together myself, and it's more than adequate for my application.
And op...everyone's .02 in here is spot on. The cr of your build will need to depend on your fi options. It seems you want a single turbo set up, but I'm not too familiar with the "optimal" cr for a build like that, as I have no first hand experience with that.
My cr is 8.8:1, and many seem to think it's a bit low for a centri car. But honestly as of right now, I couldn't be happier with how my car drives. I was afraid of not having any low end grunt/torque/easability of taking off from a stop sign/etc. because of lower compression and a centri blower, but at least with my set up that seems to be virtually non-existant. I have 4.10 gears, a '00 cobra R spec T56 with the 2.97 1st. gear, and I don't seem to have any problems/regrets as of yet with my build. What I like about my set up is that the car drives 100% normal when you want it to...what I mean is it's not "too much" for say my gf to drive it. Now if you lay down the go pedal, that's a whole new ball game, but if you don't mash on it, it drives perfect/normal.
When it comes to boost and horsepower its all relative, especially when you are talking about how much power a rotating assembly can hold. The MMR 900 is rated at 900rwhp. The MMR 1000 is rated at 1000rwhp. So basically the rotating assembly can handle all the boost you can throw at it. If you are wanting to make 600rwhp with a turbo its probably going to take 15-20# to get you there depending on your set up. The MMR 750-1000 rotating assemblies can handle that no problem. But there are other things to consider as well. I recommend giving them a call to discuss your goals and the direction you are trying to take to get you there. It may be easier to send them your block and crank so they can assemble the short block with new rods, pistons, bearings, rings, main studs etc. Also consider head studs if you plan on running alot of boost. Plus they are reusable.
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