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The Terminator
Engine/Tuning
Boost controller for my eaton...
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<blockquote data-quote="tt335ci03cobra" data-source="post: 15694456" data-attributes="member: 68944"><p>I'll lay out cons with compound. And I say this to save you money and hassle. I'll also say keep the energy for a cool build, but direct it to a better overall design. You'll have far less hassles and much better drivability and durability as well as power and torque production if you heed this advice.</p><p></p><p>I'm not talking out of my ass either, I've managed to get 800whp from 11psi on a 9.3/1 5.3L modular street engine running twin 62's. That all said it's your car I just wanna give feedback when I think it can help someone save money time hassle etc. good luck.</p><p></p><p>•cons to running a ported blower twin charge:</p><p>-blower has a capacity of X that can flow through it. When compounded by supplied turbo feed, this dramatically increases manifold pressure.</p><p>-Exceed that and you will constantly have very high inlet air temps.</p><p>-the twincharge kits are designed for stock eatons. Call hellion and ask for advice. They'll steer you away from a stage 8 (what the hell is stage 8?) ported blower to a stock unit.</p><p>-high inlet air temps will trigger the computer to kill timing.</p><p>-drivability will always sway from decent when just starting a drive to lethargic and heat soaked after 3-4 pulls. Think Easton only x5.</p><p>-you'll have so much heat in the engine that you won't be able to safely drive it.</p><p>-the blower will be trying to effectively supercharge the turbo air delivered. This will at best (low boost like 6-8psi pulley combo and low turbo like 10psi) result in a minimum of 22-25psi of manifold pressure. That's enough to lift a stock manifold over a few years time.</p><p>-couple in that no one will do a $7k power adder to make 500whp and that they will likely run 8psi at the blower and 20psi at the turbos. Dependent on the size of the turbos, this will yield anything from 35psi at the manifold (with roughly twin 55's) to 50psi @ the manifold (roughly twin 67's). That's insane. That's diesel range. Those engines don't go over 3k rpm for a very good reason and not the least of which is internal pressure and associated knock from the combustion design.</p><p></p><p>A 7000rpm pump gas engine has no business running 35-50psi of manifold pressure to make 750whp.</p><p></p><p>I'm running 11psi and spin to 7500. My combo is a bit extreme for the average build, so run a ported c head, an affordable intake manifold, and 15psi with a stage 2 cam and twin 60/63's and call it a day. That combo on 9.5/1 could make 800whp on 15psi reasonably easily and last a long time even as a 5.3, build it to a 4.6 for extra durability and it'll still make 725-750whp on 15psi easily. I'm honestly being conservative with all numbers here.</p><p></p><p>A twin charge setup will not work very well except for a pass or two at the strip when cool.</p><p></p><p>Aviation went away from superchargers in the 1940's because of heat production with larger and larger/higher capacity designs.</p><p></p><p>A $200 n2mb wotbox can easily sidestep most all "lag" issues of a turbo setup, and simple things like planning the shortest route for the cold side as well as coated forward facing headers, etc can allieviate the rest.</p><p></p><p>And for the record, single turbo for a v8 or v6 is perfectly fine. Get an equal length runner intake manifold such as an fr500c (which I have) or similar for any given application and it will be of no issue. Airflow is airflow, the single turbo induces (not produces) airflow. That airflow is routed to an intercooler, and then to an inlet which also happens to be the factory inlet position commonly known as the throttle body. You will need a much larger throttle body on a boosted car relative to the desired flow, but regardless, the air from the turbo or turbos is entering the engine there, not magically to one bank of cylinders or the other.</p><p></p><p>The reason I say get an equal length runner manifold (which they literally are equal length but with the lower manifold or tank plumes setup as unequal length yields aperfect equal length) is simply to keep the airflow as close to 100% even across all cylinders. I would recommend that on any boosted build and honestly it does favors even na.</p><p></p><p>good luck, if you go twin charge, have fun sorting it out with killer chillers, e85, mafs, cam sensor issues, probably reluctor wheel destruction, slipping timing, uncontrollable iat's, and oil consumption as well as thermal overload to gaskets and hoses, turbine compressor wheel wear and leakage, and many more headaches.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="tt335ci03cobra, post: 15694456, member: 68944"] I'll lay out cons with compound. And I say this to save you money and hassle. I'll also say keep the energy for a cool build, but direct it to a better overall design. You'll have far less hassles and much better drivability and durability as well as power and torque production if you heed this advice. I'm not talking out of my ass either, I've managed to get 800whp from 11psi on a 9.3/1 5.3L modular street engine running twin 62's. That all said it's your car I just wanna give feedback when I think it can help someone save money time hassle etc. good luck. •cons to running a ported blower twin charge: -blower has a capacity of X that can flow through it. When compounded by supplied turbo feed, this dramatically increases manifold pressure. -Exceed that and you will constantly have very high inlet air temps. -the twincharge kits are designed for stock eatons. Call hellion and ask for advice. They'll steer you away from a stage 8 (what the hell is stage 8?) ported blower to a stock unit. -high inlet air temps will trigger the computer to kill timing. -drivability will always sway from decent when just starting a drive to lethargic and heat soaked after 3-4 pulls. Think Easton only x5. -you'll have so much heat in the engine that you won't be able to safely drive it. -the blower will be trying to effectively supercharge the turbo air delivered. This will at best (low boost like 6-8psi pulley combo and low turbo like 10psi) result in a minimum of 22-25psi of manifold pressure. That's enough to lift a stock manifold over a few years time. -couple in that no one will do a $7k power adder to make 500whp and that they will likely run 8psi at the blower and 20psi at the turbos. Dependent on the size of the turbos, this will yield anything from 35psi at the manifold (with roughly twin 55's) to 50psi @ the manifold (roughly twin 67's). That's insane. That's diesel range. Those engines don't go over 3k rpm for a very good reason and not the least of which is internal pressure and associated knock from the combustion design. A 7000rpm pump gas engine has no business running 35-50psi of manifold pressure to make 750whp. I'm running 11psi and spin to 7500. My combo is a bit extreme for the average build, so run a ported c head, an affordable intake manifold, and 15psi with a stage 2 cam and twin 60/63's and call it a day. That combo on 9.5/1 could make 800whp on 15psi reasonably easily and last a long time even as a 5.3, build it to a 4.6 for extra durability and it'll still make 725-750whp on 15psi easily. I'm honestly being conservative with all numbers here. A twin charge setup will not work very well except for a pass or two at the strip when cool. Aviation went away from superchargers in the 1940's because of heat production with larger and larger/higher capacity designs. A $200 n2mb wotbox can easily sidestep most all "lag" issues of a turbo setup, and simple things like planning the shortest route for the cold side as well as coated forward facing headers, etc can allieviate the rest. And for the record, single turbo for a v8 or v6 is perfectly fine. Get an equal length runner intake manifold such as an fr500c (which I have) or similar for any given application and it will be of no issue. Airflow is airflow, the single turbo induces (not produces) airflow. That airflow is routed to an intercooler, and then to an inlet which also happens to be the factory inlet position commonly known as the throttle body. You will need a much larger throttle body on a boosted car relative to the desired flow, but regardless, the air from the turbo or turbos is entering the engine there, not magically to one bank of cylinders or the other. The reason I say get an equal length runner manifold (which they literally are equal length but with the lower manifold or tank plumes setup as unequal length yields aperfect equal length) is simply to keep the airflow as close to 100% even across all cylinders. I would recommend that on any boosted build and honestly it does favors even na. good luck, if you go twin charge, have fun sorting it out with killer chillers, e85, mafs, cam sensor issues, probably reluctor wheel destruction, slipping timing, uncontrollable iat's, and oil consumption as well as thermal overload to gaskets and hoses, turbine compressor wheel wear and leakage, and many more headaches. [/QUOTE]
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