Boost a pump install on 2011

[jchristena]

Hey guys. Hopefully an easy question. Just want some validation that I installed this correctly last night. I bought the dual BAP from Revan a couple of weeks ago. The directions state that the wires in question are purple/violet on a 2011. This is consistent with my 2011 5.0 so I'm find there.

That said, the directions talk about a red wire and a white wire in the car harness. I just assume this was the pre 2011 colors. The problem is, the directions say that on the bap, there are 2 fused red inputs and then 1 red and 1 blue non fused outputs. In reality, there is 1 red fused input, 1 blue fused input, 1 red output and 1 blue output. The directions say that red/red should be used on FPDM2(passenger side) and red/blue on FPDM1(driver side).

Here's what I did.
Ground to ground
Pressure switch soldered and hard wired to max.
Driver side-Blue fused to violet green harness side.
Drive side-Blue non fused to violet green FPDM side.
Passenger side-Red fused to violet green harness side.
Passenger side-Red non fused to violet green FPDM side.

Sound correct? Thanks!

 

[s174]

My car is a 2011 and we had to run a wire all the way from the battery and hook it up to a relay, kept blowing fuses. The wire from the factory isn't heavy enough.

 

[fullboogie]

How did you know you were blowing fuses? By that I mean, did the car act funny or give you some other sign of low fuel pressure, or were you monitoring on a gauge?

 

[Van@RevanRacing]

Hey guys. Hopefully an easy question. Just want some validation that I installed this correctly last night. I bought the dual BAP from Revan a couple of weeks ago. The directions state that the wires in question are purple/violet on a 2011. This is consistent with my 2011 5.0 so I'm find there.

That said, the directions talk about a red wire and a white wire in the car harness. I just assume this was the pre 2011 colors. The problem is, the directions say that on the bap, there are 2 fused red inputs and then 1 red and 1 blue non fused outputs. In reality, there is 1 red fused input, 1 blue fused input, 1 red output and 1 blue output. The directions say that red/red should be used on FPDM2(passenger side) and red/blue on FPDM1(driver side).

Here's what I did.
Ground to ground
Pressure switch soldered and hard wired to max.
Driver side-Blue fused to violet green harness side.
Drive side-Blue non fused to violet green FPDM side.
Passenger side-Red fused to violet green harness side.
Passenger side-Red non fused to violet green FPDM side.

Sound correct? Thanks!

Sounds right. You can trace the wires back the FPDM's after the Dual BAP and check voltage at the FPDM with a voltmeter and should be 17.5 Volts. Also make sure you install the provided Brass Blade Jumper at the fuse box as indicated in the instructions.

 

[jchristena]

Cool. Will do on the voltage for sure. I'm a little concerned about s174's post tho. Have you guys seen this on any other cars? Is there anything to indicate ONE of the fuses has blown and you are down a pump? It would seem to be less of a problem w/ the factory setup as if the one fuse blows, you are dead in the water. But in the BAP setup, if one blows, the other pump is still humming along and everything is fine until you get on the boost... Just wondering what your thoughts are on this.

Thanks for the response!!!

 

[Van@RevanRacing]

Cool. Will do on the voltage for sure. I'm a little concerned about s174's post tho. Have you guys seen this on any other cars? Is there anything to indicate ONE of the fuses has blown and you are down a pump? It would seem to be less of a problem w/ the factory setup as if the one fuse blows, you are dead in the water. But in the BAP setup, if one blows, the other pump is still humming along and everything is fine until you get on the boost... Just wondering what your thoughts are on this.

Thanks for the response!!!

The 2011 to 2012 GT500's operate off of a single fuse in the fuse box in the engine bay. Kenne Bell provides a Brass Blade to replace the fuse and then you are using the inline fuses with the Dual BAP as your "fuse location".

Make sure to install the provided Brass Blade in the proper fuse location and you should not have any issues.

 

[jchristena]

Did that for sure. I was just wondering what would happen if 1 of the BAP inline fuses blew(just one).

 

[Van@RevanRacing]

Did that for sure. I was just wondering what would happen if 1 of the BAP inline fuses blew(just one).

Most likely it will not. In the event it did you would have an FPDM off line and you should get a wrench light or CEL.

 

[jchristena]

That's what I was hoping to hear. Thanks a bunch!

 

[s174]

How did you know you were blowing fuses? By that I mean, did the car act funny or give you some other sign of low fuel pressure, or were you monitoring on a gauge?

it shut down on the dyno, I didn't have what Van is talking about. I'm sure he's right.

http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/2011-2014-mustangs-354/851295-boost-pump-help.html

 

[jchristena]

Interesting. Well, thanks for the link. If I start blowing the fuse, at least I know the fix.