Body in White 2013 Mustang Competition Kit, part #M-607100-K13.

[Bisbee Kid]

Has anyone ordered a 2013 Mustang Competition Kit, part #M-607100-K13.
Body in White to build a car? This is what is listed in the information packet,
& could it be built to be street legal?

Mustang enthusiasts wanting to build their own drag or road racer have a choice: start with a body-in-white and add on the required parts or take a salvaged car and remove all unnecessary components. Now, thanks to Ford Racing, racers have another choice in the form of the 2013 Mustang Competition Kit, part #M-607100-K13.
Using a body-in-white as a base, the competition kit reduces build time for racers by providing many extras including all glass and weather stripping, headlights and taillights, front and rear fascias, dash, headliner, console, pillar trim, carpet and more.The kit also includes the engine cradle, front control arms, steering knuckles and steering column. Like the limited edition Cobra Jet, each 2013 Mustang Competition Kit is serialized for collectability.
Pricing for the 2013 Mustang Competition Kit is listed at $11,995.00.
2013 Mustang Competition Kit Features:

• Body-in-White with green e-coat, serialized for collectability
• Built with no sound deadener or seam sealer…Save time and weight!
• Kit includes engine cradle, front control arms and steering knuckles
• Includes all body plugs

Exterior includes:

• Hood, doors and decklid
• Front and rear fascias with grills
• Head lights and tail lights
• All glass and weather stripping
• Window motors and door handles with mechanisms

Interior includes:

• Dash with cluster
• A/B/C pillar trim
• Door panels
• Headliner
• Console
• Steering column (2013 wheel sold separately)
• Carpet and sill plates

*All fasteners are included for parts listed above

 

[Shhhh]

Body in white cars are sold without VIN and can not be made street legal.

 

[Bisbee Kid]

Body in white cars are sold without VIN and can not be made street legal.



What is the general criteria for a home built car where the state assigns a vin# to a vehicle, such as a kit car?

 

[muauto]

Body in white cars are sold without VIN and can not be made street legal.



What is the general criteria for a home built car where the state assigns a vin# to a vehicle, such as a kit car?

You can do that in New York.

 

[Turbo mach1]

you this is were Ford is stupuid, if your going to do a BIW do a BIW dont add all the stupid stuff like windows motors ect, that all the stuff that if your building a race car your going to take out.

when we bought ours 99-04 car it was a body with no hood bumper glass ect, just had a deck lid

 

[F8L SN8K]

I bought one and picked it up last September. I bought mine from Mike at Ford Racing Parts for Less - BuyFordRacing.com.
They(FRPP/Watson Engineering) weld up all the seat belt bracket holes and no VIN. Just a plaque welded on the driver side front shock tower. There were 20 of them sold last year. we had to go to Watson engineering in Michigan to pick it up. Everyone got to pick their serial#. The competition kits are sold like this for the guys wanting to build CJs and be NHRA class legal that has to have these factory items in place.

 

[Bisbee Kid]

I bought one and picked it up last September. I bought mine from Mike at Ford Racing Parts for Less - BuyFordRacing.com.
They(FRPP/Watson Engineering) weld up all the seat belt bracket holes and no VIN. Just a plaque welded on the driver side front shock tower. There were 20 of them sold last year. we had to go to Watson engineering in Michigan to pick it up. Everyone got to pick their serial#. The competition kits are sold like this for the guys wanting to build CJs and be NHRA class legal that has to have these factory items in place.

After watching the BIRDDOC and Justin's build taking a body in white adding
$50k in real build items that equals the cost of the Shelby, Just getting to the
track would be fun. Could take a 12-13 v6 and gut it & build from there & only lightly mod the 13. Roll cage would be much easier To say the least but only having what is needed, like the CJ but a little more radical.

 

[F8L SN8K]

I searched for a 2010-up flood damage car for a little while. The plan was to get a good price and part out the things I didn't need. When Jesse emailed me and said that the BIW kits were going to be released in a few weeks then I started talking to a few FRPP dealers on who was best to deal with. Mike was on the ball, no nonsense, straight shooter and gave me the answer to any and every question I had in no time flat. I bought it and I couldn't have bought a flood damage car for what I got the BIW kit with Cobra Jet Recaros(pole position) for.

You can get the 05-09 BIW only the chassis for a cheap price from time to time. They pop up on EBay, racing junk, NMRA, and few other websites.

 

[F8L SN8K]

If you can do the cage,chassis and other work yourself its cheaper to start from scratch bare chassis. You can do everything how you want it to be class/goal specific. If you have to send it out for those items it's cheaper to buy a complete roller or a turnkey car from someone getting out of racing. In chassis building, generally the most expensive part is Labor cost. Mind your time is also worth money. If building the car cost you time away from another job that makes you more then it would cost to send it to the shop..then it's more expensive to do it that way.

 

[dustin88lx]

After watching the BIRDDOC and Justin's build taking a body in white adding
$50k in real build items that equals the cost of the Shelby, Just getting to the
track would be fun. Could take a 12-13 v6 and gut it & build from there & only lightly mod the 13. Roll cage would be much easier To say the least but only having what is needed, like the CJ but a little more radical.

Ouch that hurt....lol not the first time I guess.

It all really depends on what goals you are trying to reach, if you want a 8 sec street car mod what you have. If you are looking to put one down in the mid 7s a biw may be the way to go but your still adding 12k to the build. At this moment I have roughly 43k tied up in this build and still need roughly 15k more for completion. Odviously my build is very extreme looking for 4.70-90 in the 1/8 and mid 7s in 1/4. While still being able to drive on the street legally. The best way would be to buy a turn key car, if you have the money to pay out of pocket for it. But then your sorta hoping it is what they said it is and your happy with the fit and function Ihave seen some rough racecars.

 

[F8L SN8K]

^^^
The way I see it is. "Anyone can own one, It takes a real man to cut one up"

 

[dustin88lx]

^^^
The way I see it is. "Anyone can own one, It takes a real man to cut one up"

Hahaha....thanks man!!!

It either takes a real man or a dumba$$ one of the two, figure I am a good mix of both.

Nothing like working on a brand new car that no one has touched or hacked up or had any good idea fairies on, so clean.....

 

[Bisbee Kid]

:burnout:

^^^
The way I see it is. "Anyone can own one, It takes a real man to cut one up"

This so true, The group that are doing the major mods have all my admiration. Dustin & BIRDDOC's builds are fantastic & Van, Bob and the
other vendors have been very helpful and and patient with a few questions.
After being in the dealership service side for 30 years I see all the headachs
that happen when something gets modded then the shop that did the work goes out of business & the car quits working. Most of the time there is no conflict but on occasion it gets into a gray area and when ever the factory gets involved it sucks, no matter the manufacturer. I built several cars in the
70's & early 80's but the technical side was not nearly as complicated as today.

Everytime I go out in the garage to start taking something apart (or really just think about it) I start reading all the different post along with other past ideas & I just stop. Mainly so I don't do something stupid like I did in the past. Just doing it right the first time without all the extra drama of "only if I would have done this or that". Looking at a body in white kind of gives that clean sheet to work with. Not putting in anything extra, just what is needed. Building a home made car through the state registration was a fairly easy process but I am not sure how they view a complete body (unless it is really changed from the original, but then what is the point) Having a car that has 662 hp has been fantastic, this is like the final era of the 69/70 Boss 9 cars except there will never be another production Mustang with this much power.
After talking to a good friend that works for Ford Marketing the 20 year plan is A LOT different than it is currently, the next generation Mustang is looking to be the foundation for Ford to gain full respect in the world market. Like the BMW 3 series is currently. He wouldn't go into full details but the global market push is gaining momentum & that is where Ford management wants to lead.

The Shelby is such an ICONIC car I don't want to screw it up but man it would be nice to have a car that is capable of either 225 mph top end or a 7 second 1/4. Van's builds are super impressive maybe the best option is to just buy another (14) and mod the 13 to the max.

 

[F8L SN8K]

Sorry to rehash an old thread but if you are still interested or if anyone else is. Ford Racing is offering the BIW's once again. One as a standard shell(M-607100-S197*) and one that has had all the lightening and roll cage done by Watson engineering/racing(M-607100-MCJ)

Ford Racing Performance Parts - Mobile


Ford Racing Performance Parts - Mobile