Bob's Oil Separator Install

[venom62]

I installed Bob's Oil Separator this weekend, following Farmer-Ted's method. I mounted the separator on an L bracket I fabricated from an 1/8" x 3/4 metal strip from Home Depot, drilling a 1/4" hole in the Battery Tray extension and mounting with a 1/4-20 x 3/4" allen head screw/washer/splitlock and blue Loctite. The mount was surprisingly quite sturdy. Used the 5/8" hose and heat shrink hose clamps with the kit. I pulled off the existing hose from the connector/hose barbs after heating with a heat gun. I painted all the remaining hardware black to match the separator before assembling. I have 1,800 miles on the Shelby in 6 weeks, but better late than never.

Photos of finished mounting

Close up of Oil Separator mounting

Thanks to Van for supplying the separator, and Farmer-Ted for the idea on where to mount.

 

[MNCobra]

looks great congrats on getting it in

 

[2013gt5]

I need to do something else about how mine is mounting. I have it mounted to the ground bolt but am having a problem with the hose going out starting to kink from the bend.

 

[RedNightmare06]

looks good

I found this location much more user friendy.

 

[crucianpilot]

I like the install but doesn't that spot make it hard to drain it?

 

[RedNightmare06]

I like the install but doesn't that spot make it hard to drain it?

Nope super easy, bottom unscrews don't even have to unmount it
Picture shown is the UPR setup which is a complete kit.(came as shown)
I tried both the Bobs and the upr both work very similar.
I have the bob's in one of my car's and the upr in my another car.
The upr just easier to use and mount, Factory look install.
Can't go wrong with either.

 

[Farmer-Ted]

Looks great! If you unclip the connector to the resistor on the valve cover and zip tie it to the side it gives a little more room for the inlet hose to go below the outlet hose. You can see it in this picture.

To empty it I just remove it from the car. Takes 2 minutes.

 

[venom62]

That is one of the tradeoffs. I will plan to quick disconnect the hoses at the engine and unscrew the top Allen head bolt, remove the assembly (takes less than a minute) and drain it. I don't think it will be too much hassle, but we'll see. Thanks

 

[mwilson6192]

Firewall Mount Installation Experience for Bob's Ultimate Oil Separator Kit

I ordered the Bob's Ultimate Oil Separator Kit with the Firewall Mount; black oil separator; and black AN fittings options and installed it this past weekend in about 3 hours time (taking extra time at every turn to get the installation right). I thought I would write up my experience with installing the Firewall Mount Kit option to help others decide if this was something they would be interested in.

Of course this is just my opinion, but the firewall mount gives the cleanest install option for passenger side installations. I took my time, placed the oil separator in the only available passenger firewall location available (it is a tight but manageable fit), and mounted it flush against the top lip of the firewall sheet metal. This was not a major operation! I know many folks do not want to drill holes into any sheet metal, but there is no chance of damaging anything immediately behind the pictured firewall mount location because there is 6 inches of wide open space, which by the way houses the cabin air filter to the immediate left of and behind the oil separator mounting location.

Pictures tell the story (below) as I finally got a Photobucket account. The procedure for installation for those of you who are interested follows:

1. You do not need to remove the passenger windshield wiper arm assembly! I could not get the wiper arm assembly off the motor mount and spent extra time on this (unnecessary) step. Just turn on the wiper until it is perpendicular to the bottom of the windshield and leave the wiper arm in this position. P.S. Does anyone have a sure fire way to remove the wiper assembly arms from 2013/2014 Mustangs?

2. Remove the passenger side plastic cowl (you cannot get it off until you perform Step 1 above)! Orienting yourself looking from the front of the car to the windshield, it is held in place by two (2) front plastic pins and a set of rear molded "compression" pins pressure fit immediately below the windshield. Insert a small flat bladed screwdriver under the pin within the plastic receiver slot, gently push and then pull out the securing pin. Then pull out the plastic pin body by compressing the flange and set the pins and body aside. Gently but firmly pull straight up on the rear compression pins and the passenger cowl will release from the car.

3. Gently pull the firewall sound insulation from two connectors on the firewall (they look like threaded screws protruding out from the firewall). To do this, place a medium to long flat bladed screwdriver directly behind the two connectors a gently pry outward toward the front of the car. These will give along the top to gain access to the firewall mounting location. I suppose if one worked really hard and diligently one could remove the entire firewall sound insulation, but it runs directly behind the engine and runs the length of the firewall. However, I chose the following action (Step 4 next).

4. I used a sharp utility blade and made a single clean cut through the insulation material about 3 inches long, lining up dead center where the installation mounting point would be. I choose this option because I didn't need to remove the entire firewall sound insulation. The material is pliable enough to easily fold the resulting "flaps" out of way providing easy access to the firewall mount location.

5. I placed the entire assembled oil separator into the desired location, holding the mounting backplate bracket as a template to find the optimum location. There are very few options (in my opinion) on where to place the oil separator, and I mounted mine flush against the firewall sheet metal lip.

Editorial comment: I don't see a practical way that one could fit an empty water bottle or other drainage container from the top of the car to catch the oil as the space directly underneath is too constrained. I did not pursue placing an NPT connector with flexible (or other) long hose to trail downward toward the bottom of the car. I have resigned myself to using a long gasoline fuel additive spout with plastic hose on the end to drain the separator, maneuvering from the bottom of the car to place the spout over the drain valve. I also think that a viable alternative is to remove the passenger wiper cowl and unbolt the separator to drain it - about a 15 minute option in my mind. YMMV.

6. Using the supplied firewall mounting bracket as a template and being satisfied with the mounting location, I marked the two mounting holes with a punch. And then I took a deep breath ... and drilled two holes. They came out perfectly. I smoothed out the holes with a round tapered file.

7. I then mounted the oil separator temporarily in place. I did not use the supplied firewall mounting bracket, as the instructions said that the bracket was no longer required (and the supplied hardware was not long enough to use the mounting bracket anyway). I ran the hoses to the supercharger and PCV outlets for proper sizing (length) of the hoses. They were each approximately 2 inches in excess length. I marked the proper hose length using the OEM hose (still attached), double checked the lengths, and removed the entire assembly.

8. I cut the hoses with the sharp utility knife used in Step 4 above, wrapping a 1/4" strip of electricians tape as described in the instructions (one revolution of tape only) to prevent the hose from fraying. I used sharp scissors to trim the "cloth" material on the hose ends for a perfect flush hose joint. I cut the two hose fittings from a spare OEM hose I purchased, thus preserving my original OEM hose to revert back to stock. I chose not to use the boiling water method to remove the OEM hose fittings, thus destroying the OEM hose in the process.

9. I used a few drops of clean oil on each fitting and pushed ... HARD! Grunting did help! With minimal twisting and a large dose of physical pushing, I got each hose fitting to fully seat on the supplied hose. Make sure you don't forget to place the heat shrink hose clamp on the hose before you insert the hose fittings (I didn't forget). I used a heat gun and ensured that the heat shrink hose clamp was properly positioned (the recommended 1/8" over then end of the hose, sealing over the fitting proper). Those hose fittings are never coming off again!

10. I installed the oil separator in the firewall mount location and plugged in the hose fittings to the supercharger and PCV valve.

11. I reinstalled items in the reverse order (e.g. pushed the firewall sound material back in place folding the "flaps" in place, reinstalled the passenger windshield cowl snapping the pins against the windshield first followed by the two front pins/pin body).

The pictures below illustrate how clean the firewall mount option is.

 

[Tob]

Very nice.

 

[venom62]

Nice job!

 

[Ky GT500]

Looks good, nice write up. :thumbsup:

Hmmmm,,,spare hose to take the fittings from, like the idea. :-D I think I'll do the same for my install.

Glad you got time to work on the ride.