BMR Watts Link
- Thread starter GT Premi
- Start date
Completely second the opinions here, the watts link is great, but since BMR is watching this thread... the instructions suck. If it wasn't for the video Bill Tumas/CJ Pony Parts has of the install, it would have taken much longer to install than it did. Also I had to buy a couple of bolts because two of the bolts on the axle clamp interfered with the bracing on the other side of the clamp. No biggie, $0.75 at Lowe's for two identical but shorter grade8 bolts but annoying.
It would be nice if the propeller was adjustable without removing the watts link from the vehicle. I understand the reason it was engineered the way it was, but small gripes.
I also had to remove my Shelby/FRPP away bar and go back to stock due to interference with the watts link. That was more than annoying but the price of aftermarket parts not playing with each other.
It would be nice if the propeller was adjustable without removing the watts link from the vehicle. I understand the reason it was engineered the way it was, but small gripes.
I also had to remove my Shelby/FRPP away bar and go back to stock due to interference with the watts link. That was more than annoying but the price of aftermarket parts not playing with each other.
Yeah, I had to watch that same video. I watched it a few times before I even bought the Watts link, then used it while I was doing the install. You can still use your aftermarket sway bar. I have BMR's Ultimate(?) adjustable rear sway bar, and the passenger side link interfered with one of the bolts. What I found during the install was that you have to do a lot of loading and unloading of the suspension to gain access to stuff. The long bolt on the passenger side, the one that has to be torqued to 120 ft/lbs was literally touching the sway bar link while the suspension was unloaded. It really bugged me a lot, and I thought I was going to have to either ditch the Watts link or put the stock bar back on. However, once I loaded the suspension, there was clearance for days with plenty of room for full articulation of the suspension.
So go ahead and put your other bar back on and enjoy it!
So go ahead and put your other bar back on and enjoy it!
The watts needs to be installed with suspension loaded so not sure how you properly installed it if the suspension was not loaded.
The interference is in the middle, it hits the center area of the watts. It's off by a pretty significant amount, links are over an inch from their seats. Pretty big miss on BMR part for it not to fit with what is or was a widely sold kit distributed by both ford racing and Shelby. Oh well. Long since sold the part.
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Im no suspension expert but for someone like myself who is more into drag racing would this watts link setup still work out fine for me?? I know this is more intended for handling purposes which I get but Im assuming this setup would also work out for drag racing applications as well. I started looking at these setups and since Im a street/strip kinda guy Im out looking to get my car to be able to do both fairly decent. Im not looking to be the fastest guy in a straight line but also want the car to feel somewhat stable in turns.
The Watts link is used more by drag racers than curves guys. It just turns out that it has great benefits for corner carving, too. So, yes, it will work great for your intended use. BMR's primary focus has traditionally been drag racing parts. It's only been the past couple years that they even entertained their parts being used for road course / corner carving duty. I remember a few years ago messaging back and forth with them trying to find out if their parts could be used for handling. Trying to get a definitive answer out of them was like trying to grab a fist full of water. LOL
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Sent from my BlackBerry. The blacker the 'Berry, the sweeter the use!
BMR Tech 2
Active Member
You can drag race with the Watts link, absolutely. You won't see an improvement at the strip with a watts link, but you'll definitely notice the difference on the street.
Seems like thats selling your product short. If there is a decent amount of travel in the rear suspension its going to make the rear end shift with a panhard bar during launch and every shift. For a high HP car this could make for an overly exciting 1/4 mile. I don't see why a watts link wouldn't be a significant improvement on a drag strip as well. Even my car thats basically stock power levels wants to wag the tail a little when i launch it.
BMR Tech 2
Active Member
I'm not trying to sell it short, but the goals for your average drag race guy just don't really align with installing a watts link. Most are looking to drop weight as much as possible and the watts will add around 15-20 lbs over a panhard set up. A lot of them also want to run anti-roll bars which will not fit with the WL.
I doubt you would see any ET improvement after installing a watts link, but I could be wrong. I've never seen anyone do a back to back comparison. You should definitely lose that wiggle on shifts with it.
I doubt you would see any ET improvement after installing a watts link, but I could be wrong. I've never seen anyone do a back to back comparison. You should definitely lose that wiggle on shifts with it.
i wish i had known about that video. we went through hell trying to install it. also wish that video was installing the version with the poly ends which is probably what most people will get. total pita trying to center the axle with those. ive had mine on now for over six months. so far so good, though i dont drive the car that much lol. in hindsight, kinda wish i went with a diff mounted version. as my buddy pointed out, "you just added a bunch of weight to your car". it must weigh 30-40lbs while my panhard bar prob less than 10.
I weighed it, including the nuts and bolts, and IIRC, it was 28 lbs. It added 11 or 12 lbs over their panhard bar that I replaced with the Watts link, including the panhard bar's nuts and bolts. At least it's over the rear wheels. The performance benefits definitely outweigh the added weight penalty.
It was my intention to offset some of that weight with a Thump tensioner and billet engine braces from BPS. Turns out the Thump tensioner weighs exactly the same as the stock unit, according to my scale.
It was my intention to offset some of that weight with a Thump tensioner and billet engine braces from BPS. Turns out the Thump tensioner weighs exactly the same as the stock unit, according to my scale.
There was definitely some head scratching going on with some bolts that were just a little too long and at least one text to Bill at CJPP. I used ratchet straps to get everything aligned.
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