BMR v. MM Panhandle bars

ZOMBEAST

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6-Speed

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All the adjustable ones I've seen can be adjusted on the car; it comes down to how accessible are the jam nuts that lock down the final setting. I chose the BMR because the jam nuts are positioned away from the mounting ends where I could easily reach them with a wrench and tighten them down. Tightening the jam nut on the passenger's side can be tricky if they were positioned near the mounting ends because the mounting structure covers up the entire end. I prefer the polyurethane bushings of the BMR over the MM spherical bearings for my application. If I were shopping around today, I would seriously consider the Sphon M5-107 adjustable chrome-moly panhard bar with a Delsphere bushing on one end and a polyurethane bushing on the other. Their design allows the bar more freedom to articulate and the jam nuts are accessible, both being located near the Delsphere end that mounts to the axle.

Spohn Performance :: 2005 - 2010 Ford Mustang >> Suspension >> Panhard Bars >> Panhard Bar - Tubular Adjustable with Poly/Del-Sphere Pivot Joint Combo
 

Daddys GT500

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Thanks guys. Can the MM adjustable bars, be adjusted without removing it??

Is there a substantial performance difference between bars with rodends and those without??
 

ZOMBEAST

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Thanks guys. Can the MM adjustable bars, be adjusted without removing it??

Is there a substantial performance difference between bars with rodends and those without??

It's next to impossible to tighten the jam nut on the passenger side like stated above. In reality, it's not like it requires constant adjustment. Once you get it where you want it, you're done.

For street/strip you don't need rod ends.

Rod ends are more for road course racing.
 

Quade

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Yes you can adjust it on the car with the proper tools. I am a Rotorwing Mech. and I have alot of special (weird) tools just for getting to flight control rodend bearings We refer to them as Stabilator Wrench but I think the proper name is a Flare Nut Wrench.
Flare Nut Wrench, 7/8 - Flare Nut Wrenches - Wrenches - Hand Tools : Grainger Industrial Supply

As for SUBSTANSIAL difference, I don't think so unless you are do alot of racing on the twisties....but if your going to do that, there is a whole lot more things to be thinking about than just a panhard rod.....IMHO
 

Daddys GT500

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Great thanks for info guys. Should I take into account that I have a converable in my panhandle choice??

I am going with the H&R coilovers, the nice thing is they are vert specific, and I really don't want more than an 1" drop in front.
 

6-Speed

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It's next to impossible to tighten the jam nut on the passenger side like stated above. In reality, it's not like it requires constant adjustment. Once you get it where you want it, you're done.
Some folks set up the bar length, then back it off slightly, then turn the jam nuts finger tight against the bar and then with a wrench tighten the bar into the jam nuts hoping they get close to the desired length setting ... and that the jam nuts are sufficiently secure. I applied some blue thread locker under the jam nuts as recommended by BMR. That's what I mean when I say it's tricky to get the desired length and tighten the jam nuts, but it's definately do-able without resorting to special tools.
 
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6-Speed

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You can see in this photo how the end of the panhard bar on the passenger's side is effectively covered up by the mounting structure. Imagine having to tighten the jam nuts in there.

panhard_bolt1.jpg


The BMR panhard bar locates the adjuster and jam nuts away from the mounting structure for easy access.

adjuster.jpg
 
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Spawn

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The BMR panhard bar locates the adjuster and jam nuts away from the mounting structure for easy access.

adjuster.jpg

Who ever you get make sure it is configured like this, I to use the BMR and I got it in red powder coat. its not easy to do the other brands but this style is very easy to adjust on the car.
 

Tob

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BMR has overtaken Granatelli as the pimp king for hot street parts on a late model Mustang. Yet you'll never find their parts on a CMC, American Iron, AIX, etc, car. You'll find MM everywhere when it comes to road racing, autocross, etc.

Don't get upset guys, that's just the way it is.:poke:

BMR uses steel while MM uses aluminum. The GT500 is a pig and can afford to lose weight wherever possible. And while the threaded adjuster in ~ the middle of the bar is convenient for adjustment, you've just introduced another potential point of failure for the sake of ease of adjustment attainment. It also adds weight (however small). BMR gets away with it because for the most part, the S197 panhard bar is only in either tension or compression, with neither imposing enough load during normal driving to cause the bar to permanently deflect (and ultimately, bend).

As to MM panhard bar adjustment, understand that it comes out of the box set up to match the stock length. If you lower (or raise) the body relative to the axle you'll have to adjust it (obviously). At that point you'd have to remove one bolt in order to swing it down and adjust it.

panhard_bolt1.jpg


6-speed said:
Imagine having to tighten the jam nuts in there.
The horror! You'll actually have to remove the bolt and swing the arm down to do it!:lol:

Seriously, adjusting the bar is as easy as buttoning your pants. If you can't handle it you should have your man card permanently revoked. Besides, you'll be adjusting the bar probably only once, that's if you change the ride height or if for some reason your car came way out of wack.

The MM panhard bar I installed on my '09 GT500 is the third I've installed, the other two being on fox bodies (which required installing chassis and axle brackets as well). The rod ends will allow for bind-free articulation, something polyurethane fails to do.

<pause for the gnashing of keys as teh heim haters are gettin excited!>

Heims on the panhard are fine. It's the UCA that'll increase the amount of NVH within your vehicle. I heartily recommend the Roush UCA for this purpose.

For more, click here to see my install.

Tob
 

03 DSG Snake

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Maximum's Panhard here. Their parts are some of the best I've seen. The piece is Stout and quality.

Never heard of BMR until a few years ago. I've been using MM for years.

Install it, set it and forget it. :rockon:
 

TexasShelby

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BMR Panhard and LCAs....mainly because in late 06 early 07 they were the only one's out with them.

Works great no problems!

Grabberized-BMR-LCA-and-Pan.jpg
 

6-Speed

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This could very well be the worst panhandle, woops, I mean panhard bar design I have ever seen. :dw: There is a crazy added stress point at that joint once you leave the bar ends.

FWIW

:thumbsup::coolman::beer:
I was initially concerned about that as well, but the BMR bar has been on the market for several years now and I have never read of any issues with the bar failing. The adjuster joint is made of chrome-moly steel so it's pretty strong.
 

ac427cobra

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I was initially concerned about that as well, but the BMR bar has been on the market for several years now and I have never read of any issues with the bar failing. The adjuster joint is made of chrome-moly steel so it's pretty strong.

I am aware that there are no known (or very few) failures of that particular component. But you never design a strees point in that location.

I'm sure they did it for ease of adjustment which it SURELY has. The one I'm making will need to have one end dropped to tighten the adjustment nut after the final length adjustment has been made, and the heim joints screw into the ends of the panhard bar.

I don't think it's anything to lose sleep over! :coolman:
 

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