I am set to bleed the brake lines. Is it recommended to bleed all 4 lines and then the brake reservoir? Or should I do the reservoir first and then bleed the lines? any advice would be great.
Thanks!
Thanks!
bleeding the brakes.
- Thread starter Cobrakai04
- Start date
Figured I would bleed the lines first, but just wanted to confirm.
Your reservoir should only need bleeding if it sucked air. Doing the 4 wheels should be all you need.
I wrote up instructions on flushing your brake fluid. I don't follow them anymore because I bought a Motive Power Bleeder. Much nicer. However, for doing it the old fashion way...
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I took an old jar, large enough to hold at least one can of brake fluid. It's best to start with an empty can of fluid (or one which has been previously opened and sat on the shelf with old fluid). Fill the can with water and dump it into the jar (or you can use a measuring cup to start with the same ounces of water as the brake fluid can contains). Now mark the fluid level. Throw out the water and connect your bleeder hose to bleeder screw (I used to use speedbleeders, but now I use a MityVac. Both work well. Some prefer the 2-man system, so use whatever is best for you).
Take a full can of brake fluid, wipe off the top good so there is no dirt that can get into the system and clean your thumb as well, then carefully invert it onto your master cylinder (be careful you don't spill it on the paint! I use my thumb over the opening until the bottle is inverted). Now duct tape it in place so it doesn't tip over. At this point, it looks like an inverted water bottle sitting on top of the water cooler.
Now go bleed your brakes. Watch the fluid level in the jar, cause when it's close to the line you marked, then the brake fluid can on the Master Cylinder is nearly empty. If you're still bleeding, then empty the jar and put another can on the M/C and hold it in place with duct tape.
I keep bleeding until the fluid comes out clean, then move on to the next wheel.
Another tip. Brake fluid WILL absorb water, so don't bother storing an open can. If you need to add just a little bit of fluid, might as well do a little flushing and use up the entire can. It's cheaper than replacing calipers because of internal corrosion. Pull your stock bleeder valve all the way out and you'll see what I mean.
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Here are some good instructions.
To season the rotors.
http://www.baer.com/Support/TechTips.aspx?TechTipID=4
To Bed the Pads
http://www.baer.com/Support/TechTips.aspx?TechTipID=5
I wrote up instructions on flushing your brake fluid. I don't follow them anymore because I bought a Motive Power Bleeder. Much nicer. However, for doing it the old fashion way...
-----------------
I took an old jar, large enough to hold at least one can of brake fluid. It's best to start with an empty can of fluid (or one which has been previously opened and sat on the shelf with old fluid). Fill the can with water and dump it into the jar (or you can use a measuring cup to start with the same ounces of water as the brake fluid can contains). Now mark the fluid level. Throw out the water and connect your bleeder hose to bleeder screw (I used to use speedbleeders, but now I use a MityVac. Both work well. Some prefer the 2-man system, so use whatever is best for you).
Take a full can of brake fluid, wipe off the top good so there is no dirt that can get into the system and clean your thumb as well, then carefully invert it onto your master cylinder (be careful you don't spill it on the paint! I use my thumb over the opening until the bottle is inverted). Now duct tape it in place so it doesn't tip over. At this point, it looks like an inverted water bottle sitting on top of the water cooler.
Now go bleed your brakes. Watch the fluid level in the jar, cause when it's close to the line you marked, then the brake fluid can on the Master Cylinder is nearly empty. If you're still bleeding, then empty the jar and put another can on the M/C and hold it in place with duct tape.
I keep bleeding until the fluid comes out clean, then move on to the next wheel.
Another tip. Brake fluid WILL absorb water, so don't bother storing an open can. If you need to add just a little bit of fluid, might as well do a little flushing and use up the entire can. It's cheaper than replacing calipers because of internal corrosion. Pull your stock bleeder valve all the way out and you'll see what I mean.
-----
Here are some good instructions.
To season the rotors.
http://www.baer.com/Support/TechTips.aspx?TechTipID=4
To Bed the Pads
http://www.baer.com/Support/TechTips.aspx?TechTipID=5
you want to start the bleeding with the caliper furthest from the mc......the passenger rear. then go to the driver rear. then the passenger front, and finally the driver front. the mc does have bleed lines....but you really don't want to let it go dry and possibly force a "bench" bleeding. get a buddy with you to help out and always keep fluid in the mc! don't let him drink and miss on pouring that brake fluid :kaboom: 
great, thanks guys. I will just bleed the lines and leave the master cylinder alone. :beer:
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