I recently put new slotted rotors, hawk hps pads, and russel stainless lines...I was told you need to bleed the lines through the abs box/sensor and was told you have to use a scan tool to do this and Ford was the only one that could do this...has anyone else had a problem with bleeding the lines, because my brakes failed...thanks
bleeding the brakes question
- Thread starter 1BLWN 03
- Start date
As long as you didn't have your system open for an extended period of time, you can just bleed.
If you left the system open overnight or longer, AND ran your master cylinder dry, you have a LOT more work on your hands removing the air.
FWIW
:thumbsup::coolman::beer:
+1. The special procedure is only necessary if air gets into the ABS module.
This is how I flush my fluid every year.
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I took an old jar, large enough to hold at least one can of brake fluid. It's best to start with an empty can of fluid (or one which has been previously opened and sat on the shelf with old fluid). Fill the can with water and dump it into the jar (or you can use a measuring cup to start with the same ounces of water as the brake fluid can contains). Now mark the fluid level. Throw out the water and connect your bleeder hose to bleeder screw (I used to use speedbleeders, but now I use a MityVac. Both work well. Some prefer the 2-man system, so use whatever is best for you).
Take a full can of brake fluid, wipe off the top good so there is no dirt that can get into the system and clean your thumb as well, then carefully invert it onto your master cylinder (be careful you don't spill it on the paint! I use my thumb over the opening until the bottle is inverted). Now duct tape it in place so it doesn't tip over. At this point, it looks like an inverted water bottle sitting on top of the water cooler.
Now go bleed your brakes. Watch the fluid level in the jar, cause when it's close to the line you marked, then the brake fluid can on the Master Cylinder is nearly empty. If you're still bleeding, then empty the jar and put another can on the M/C and hold it in place with duct tape.
I keep bleeding until the fluid comes out clean, then move on to the next wheel.
Another tip. Brake fluid WILL absorb water, so don't bother storing an open can. If you need to add just a little bit of fluid, might as well do a little flushing and use up the entire can. It's cheaper than replacing calipers because of internal corrosion. Pull your stock bleeder valve all the way out and you'll see what I mean.
This is how I flush my fluid every year.
-----
I took an old jar, large enough to hold at least one can of brake fluid. It's best to start with an empty can of fluid (or one which has been previously opened and sat on the shelf with old fluid). Fill the can with water and dump it into the jar (or you can use a measuring cup to start with the same ounces of water as the brake fluid can contains). Now mark the fluid level. Throw out the water and connect your bleeder hose to bleeder screw (I used to use speedbleeders, but now I use a MityVac. Both work well. Some prefer the 2-man system, so use whatever is best for you).
Take a full can of brake fluid, wipe off the top good so there is no dirt that can get into the system and clean your thumb as well, then carefully invert it onto your master cylinder (be careful you don't spill it on the paint! I use my thumb over the opening until the bottle is inverted). Now duct tape it in place so it doesn't tip over. At this point, it looks like an inverted water bottle sitting on top of the water cooler.
Now go bleed your brakes. Watch the fluid level in the jar, cause when it's close to the line you marked, then the brake fluid can on the Master Cylinder is nearly empty. If you're still bleeding, then empty the jar and put another can on the M/C and hold it in place with duct tape.
I keep bleeding until the fluid comes out clean, then move on to the next wheel.
Another tip. Brake fluid WILL absorb water, so don't bother storing an open can. If you need to add just a little bit of fluid, might as well do a little flushing and use up the entire can. It's cheaper than replacing calipers because of internal corrosion. Pull your stock bleeder valve all the way out and you'll see what I mean.
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