Best Tires for 14 Track Pack Wheels?

DeepImpact

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Hey Guys. I just replaced my Foxbody that burned up in the CA wildfires with a 14 DIB Premium Track Pack. It only has 11k miles on it and is all stock, but it has zero traction and hops like crazy. My 500rwhp 93 hooked better! I wanted to wait until the weather got warmer, but with the Discount Tire promotion I thought I should get some now. I am leaning towards the Michelin Super Sports so I can run the stock 255x40-19's up front and 275x40-19's in back. I do plan to drag race and do track days with the car. I will probably drive 3-4k miles a year with it on the street. The drag tires will be 28" ET Streets on 17" Bullitts or something like that. It will probably be a couple years before I actually make it back on the road course, but the other tire I am considering is a square setup of NTO5's, with 27x35-19's. I hate that they are shorter than the stock size by 1/2". I guess it would be good after I lower it, but I only want to do an inch or 1.5". That is also down the road after the house is rebuilt. I wish I had 10's on the back so I could do 285 or 295x35's or even put the NT05R's on the back, which only comes in a 305x35 or bigger in the 19. I would love to have a tire that will hook on the street when I do a 4k punch in 1st gear. At least until I add power. It is stock right now and I can't go WOT in 1st or 2nd without spinning like crazy and hopping. I bought a BMR spherical upper mount and bracket, but I haven't installed it yet. I sure hope that helps the wheel hop. I never had hop like this in the 23 years I owned my 93 and it went from a bone stock 14.5 second car to a very modified 10.84 second car. Any help is appreciated with this platform that is foreign to me. LOL. Thanks!
 

fuelforfire87

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If you want to get rid of the wheel hop definitely get rid of the factory upper and lower control arms. I see you already have the bmr upper control arm so you might as well get a set of BMR lower control arms to compliment it. Also if you plan on lowering your car you will want to get the lower control arm relocation brackets too. The stock control arms on these cars suck and to eliminate hop you basically need to get aftermarket ones.

As far as tires, can't really go wrong with MPSS for the street but if you plan on drag racing you may want to get a pair of 15x10 drag rims for the rear so you can run drag tires when you go to the track. Since you have the track pack rims I would stick with a square setup of 255 all the way around as putting 275's in the rear on a 9" wide rim wont really increase your contact patch. The NT05's are also nice tires ( I am running them right now) and have no complaints with them maybe other than they won't be that great if you drive in the rain.
 

KBBoss302

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Congratulations on your new car, but sorry to hear about you being a victim of those fires!

I have MPSS 285/35/20 tires at all 4 corners on my Boss 302 (CAI, tune, Borla axlebacks only). I also have LCAs, relos, UCA and bracket, Fays Watts Link, and KW coilovers and even with all of that, my car will spin the tires in 2nd gear from a roll at 30mph on most pavement (I actually did it several times today on a 90 degree day). I have also run Bridgestone RE11s and PZero Corsas and they did the same.

My point in telling you that is that I think the idea of 1st gear full throttle and no spinning means you would need R comps or DRs. Overall, I am very happy with the MPSS and have heard great things about the newer Pilot Sport 4S and also the Continental ExtremeContact as far as normal sport, non race type tires.
 

DeepImpact

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Damn, I really want to get the MPSS but I want some traction. What is the point of that super low first gear if we can't use it? I test drove an 18 PP car and I didn't get too much spin on a 1st gear punch and then a good scratch when I hit 2nd. I didn't have to peddle it at all. Well, it was all over the place the first time I did that before the tires warmed up. Once warm they felt pretty good, but the 18 has a much taller 1st gear since the trans is a 1:1 4th vs our 1:1 5th. Are the NT05's soft enough to hook, even if I do the shorter sidewall? If the rears were 10's, I would do NT05 275x35 fronts and 305x35 NT05R rears. Toying with this setup on Laguna Seca wheels, but that is another $1000 in wheels and I would still rather have a tall bias ply setup for drag racing. It is much easier on the drivetrain. I really want the look of the wider tires. So, I have to pick one that comes in 275. I am not sure how good the 35 series will look though. That will make 1st gear even lower and reduce the front/back contact patch. Damn, I just don't know what to do. I can't get wheels yet and there are no drag radials made in a size that fits this track pack wheel. Since I want an extra set for drag racing, my street setup should be shifted towards a really soft road course tire, but for under $300 a tire.
 

KBBoss302

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That taller overall gearing on the 18s will obviously make the tires less likely to spin. Yeah trying to find good super sticky tires for a 19x9 will be tough. I will say that there are several good 19x10 and even 20x10 wheel options for sale at some of the big Mustang parts places for less than 200 bucks each. And the super sticky Bridgestone RE-71R is available in some good sizes in either diameter (285/35/19, 285/35/20, 295/30/20).


Depending on offset, you can get 10" wheels to fit up front with no issues so you can rotate your wheels and tires. I ran FRPP Laguna reps 19x10 ET47 at all 4 corners with no issues or spacers, also 19x10 ET41 Forgestars - both times with 285/35/19 square. I currently run 20x10.5" wheels at all 4 corners with my 285/35/20 MPSS (3mm spacer up front to clear the Brembos).
 

DeepImpact

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I am having a hard time finding wheels I like better than the track packs, and they are like brand new. It took me almost 20 years before I finally swapped out the Pony wheels on my 93. LOL. I only did that so I could put the Cobra brakes on it and wider wheels so I could get it set up better for the road course. Took 20 years to do it and I only got one track day out of it before the fire. So disappointing...It had a blown big bore dart block 347 in it. I had the motor apart waiting to install my new AFR195's and Holley Systemax II intake, along with all supporting parts. Cage and Snow boost cooler were also waiting to be installed too. I think I better keep the track pack wheels for now. I already have a set of stock wheels I need to sell from the F150 I got to replace my Ram that also burned. I'll get two wheels with bias ply drag tires. My wife is already pissed that I got the car before the house was rebuilt and she is giving me the stink eye while I type on here about tires I need. I better tread lightly... I still need to at least get exhaust for it and a tune from AED. Anyone have 275x35's on a 9" wheel? If I go that route and get wider 19's later, at least I could reuse these tires for the front if they aren't worn out yet.
 

PaxtonShelby

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MPSS is the best tire from what I have heard. I think there is a new version of that tire out now?

On the wheel hop...lower your car and 90% of your problem will go away. The problem is most lowering springs are too soft. I went with Koni yellow coilovers with 450lb springs up front and 250lb springs in back. AMAZING handling - zero brake dive - zero wheel hop ( in stock Track Pack trim my wheel hop was ridiculous ). At the same time, I installed a BMR Watts link, LCA’s and LCA relocation brackets.

All this does cost more, but the results are worth it IMO.
 

DeepImpact

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MPSS is the best tire from what I have heard. I think there is a new version of that tire out now?

On the wheel hop...lower your car and 90% of your problem will go away. The problem is most lowering springs are too soft. I went with Koni yellow coilovers with 450lb springs up front and 250lb springs in back. AMAZING handling - zero brake dive - zero wheel hop ( in stock Track Pack trim my wheel hop was ridiculous ). At the same time, I installed a BMR Watts link, LCA’s and LCA relocation brackets.

All this does cost more, but the results are worth it IMO.

Yes, the wheelhop is insane with this thing and is extremely disappointing. Two buddy’s said the same thing about lowering it. I am assuming it was a pinion angle change that helped the hop...I am considering the BMR Watts when I lower it instead of the adjustable panhard. I don’t want to do things twice on this car. I had multiple suspensions on the Fox before I settled on coilovers. I just have such a long list of things I want to do and I need to take it slowly. I must eliminate the hop though so I can drive the car the way I want to.
I read two reviews on the new MPSS tire and they had problems after a track day so I want the older version, I think...


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DeepImpact

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Yes, the wheelhop is insane with this thing and is extremely disappointing. Two buddy’s said the same thing about lowering it. I am assuming it was a pinion angle change that helped the hop...I am considering the BMR Watts when I lower it instead of the adjustable panhard. I don’t want to do things twice on this car. I had multiple suspensions on the Fox before I settled on coilovers. I just have such a long list of things I want to do and I need to take it slowly. I must eliminate the hop though so I can drive the car the way I want to.
I read two reviews on the new MPSS tire and they had problems after a track day so I want the older version, I think...


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I used to buy all my Maximum Motorsports parts during their deal of the day in December and get 20% or more off. Does BMR or one of their retailers ever have discounts at certain times of the year I should watch for? That upper control arm and mount was $$$$$$


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PaxtonShelby

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I hear you about wanting to do things only once and I agree the Watts is the way to go over an APB. I lucked out and a buddy was putting his car back to stock to sell, and I bought all his suspension for a really nice price.

I would do CC plates and coilovers at first. Your wheelhop should be greatly improved then.
 

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