Best slip or clutch?

96chargedcobra

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Lastly, only mods again I have planned would be an upper 2.5, cold air, tune. I would consider a lower in the near future but if it kills the efficiency of the blower it would be pointless. I live at 6500 ft above deal level so even if I went with a larger blower like a tvs and did a 2.4 and 10% lower the cars uncorrected would still be around 580-625 rwhp. Corrected mid to upper 700s but we get a huge correction factor up here!
 

sleek98

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sleek98

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Lastly, only mods again I have planned would be an upper 2.5, cold air, tune. I would consider a lower in the near future but if it kills the efficiency of the blower it would be pointless. I live at 6500 ft above deal level so even if I went with a larger blower like a tvs and did a 2.4 and 10% lower the cars uncorrected would still be around 580-625 rwhp. Corrected mid to upper 700s but we get a huge correction factor up here!

Get the stock. Clutch then your not planning on changing the blower.
 

Imatk

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Yeah it's the 2013 clutch... same same... if you went to your local Ford dealer that's what they would put in your car.

The 2013 is designed for the 660hp in the 2013 as well so perhaps beefier.

Like I wrote, I have 600hp and 30k miles and not a single problem. I don't drag the car though so I'm sure as always YMMV.
 

Imatk

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The rattle is usually in 4th gear. i about shit my pants when i first heard it but its normal when an upgraded clutch gets put in. the noise is from the non loaded countershaft, something to do with stiffer hub springs in the mcleod.

Im still breaking the clutch in, and about every 4th take off from a dead stop it chatters. ive been told this is normal and will lessen over time.

Id recommended a Mcleod or Spec if youre going go mod the car. if its just a pulley and a tune with occasional nights at the strip, stock is ok. Add slicks and a launch controller, get the upgraded clutch.

Yeah it drives me bonkers!

The first time I heard it I thought my damn clutch/transmission was going to fall out.

I've learned to make sure to shift at a higher RPM to lessen it... but, for ME, I can't stand it.

But I'm probably anal :)
 

RedZR

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Does the McLeod clutch rattle in your car? I have one in my other Mustang and I hate it.

According to McLeod it's "normal"but I really don't like rattles,hums, etc. in my car.

I have about 200 miles on my RXT and its quiet and takeoff and while cruising
Dan
 

Imatk

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I have about 200 miles on my RXT and its quiet and takeoff and while cruising
Dan

You're lucky man... I thought my transmission was falling out with mine but apparently it's "normal."
 

einehund

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Lastly, only mods again I have planned would be an upper 2.5, cold air, tune. I would consider a lower in the near future but if it kills the efficiency of the blower it would be pointless. I live at 6500 ft above deal level so even if I went with a larger blower like a tvs and did a 2.4 and 10% lower the cars uncorrected would still be around 580-625 rwhp. Corrected mid to upper 700s but we get a huge correction factor up here!
I noticed the Colorado thing... The altitude sucks ass! I was in the Springs for 3 years. I run a 10% lower with a 2.6 upper and the most boost I ever saw was 14 lbs. I am now down at sea level(ish) and my gauge pegs instantly. Point is, at altitude, with uncorrected (read:true) numbers, the RXT is waaaay overkill. My uncorrected number was 440 to the tire on D-Speed's mustang dyno in Denver with the pullies. Stock clutch can handle that just fine. I had to replace my slave cylinder at 50k miles so I put in an OEM 13-14 clutch at the same time. My old discs were still pretty healthy, and that was with 50+ 1/4 mile passes between Pueblo Motorsports Park and Bandimere.
 

Jam421

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When I first got my " bone stock" 2013 used from a dealer it had 3800 miles.
Before I hit 5000 miles the clutch began to slip but at that time I was doubting it could actually be the clutch...also blamed possibility of belt slip. Then came the VMP Stage 4 + 373 gears and then WENT the clutch on the dyno at around 5400 miles on the ODO. Perhaps as mentioned before maybe my car was also not truly stock when I bought it ?
Enter SPEC Super Twin SS clutch...but NO Slave Cylinder replacement. I babied the break in period for 600 miles. Then for reasons I may never understand at around 7500 miles I experiment with a 15mph hard dig....and...Bye-Bye Spec Clutch !!
I was extremely upset when the clutch was removed as it was worn to the metal on one quadrant section of the outer disc. Approx 2000 miles ?? The slave
" appeared " intact . Repeated conversations with Spec and my shop led to no direct cause of the failure. SPEC only offered a rebuild at around $900. Now....I've had a lot of clutch cars and this '13 was strictly a weekend fun car.
But now it's back to the damn bank. *Note.. the SPEC versus stock chattered like crazy at a red light unless clutch pedal was down.
Enter McCleod RXT + new ALFW sent to me from McCleod + new Ford Slave Cylinder. Chatter at red light was diminished 75% . With close to 4000 miles on the RXT + stiffened LCA's the car hooks REALLY hard at 15-20mph in 2nd with 680RWHP with 4.10's on an 88 degree muggy day with 305 Sticky Mickies on 11" rims.
Since the RXT I've truly been much harder on the car ...never tracked....but run up on many, many times out on summer weekends. I've played around with 1-2 digs....(Ha-Ha!)....or better said hard 1-2 short shifted roll outs. But the RXT does NOT slip. I've slammed the tires down at 20mph many times with ZERO ISSUES.
I've power shifted 62-6500rpm with ZERO ISSUES.

If I may offer my hard learned & very expensive lesson replace your Slave Cylinder with the new clutch. Makes sure the entire assembly is properly aligned. If you plan on ( who ever plans future upgrades ???) making bigger power mods in the future do the right thing NOW. I was once a major supporter of SPEC as I used SPEC for my past 2 Cobra kit cars and loved the grip. But now ? I'd like to cast my vote for the McCleod RXT.
And....If I may once again suggest REPLACE that slave Bud ! It's a worthwhile investment .
 
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centerforce

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If it's only a small slip right now, you should still be able to drive the car conservatively for a bit longer, but it would be a good idea to start putting money aside for the replacement.

If you were looking for something a little more performance-oriented, we offer our DYAD clutch for the GT500s that is capable of holding over 1300 ft/lbs and offers the same driveability as a stock clutch. If you'd like some more info, please drop us a PM or call!
 

Kevin P

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If the roads are cold and or have a bit of old, dried salt on them from winter, you might be feeling the tires spin a bit. Put it in 5th gear and floor it at 60+, if it doesn't slip then, I would say your clutch is fine.
 

d00m

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Does anyone know who sells the lightest clutch assy for the gt500s? I know tilton sells a 17lb assy that bolts up to a flex plate but it says it only ranges from mid 80s to 04? Anyone else knows of an assy this light?
 

blueovalkid

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If you were looking for something a little more performance-oriented, we offer our DYAD clutch for the GT500s that is capable of holding over 1300 ft/lbs and offers the same driveability as a stock clutch. If you'd like some more info, please drop us a PM or call!

My next clutch....
 

hotford

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My stock 2011 shelby clutch is holding up ok for now and its put down 752 rwhp and run in the mid to low 10s without clutch slippage....
i do have the 2013-14 clutch waiting to go in with the bigger slave that is required when upgrading to the 13-14 clutch....

also most people don't know but the 13-14 shelby's had a bigger master cylinder for the clutch from Ford... pretty cheap to.....worth the upgrade if your going all out...
 

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