Best Place to attach straps/trailering 2000 R

[Warp03Cobra]

Where is the best place to attach the tie downs to the R? I am trailering mine this weekend.

Thanks...
Evan
2000 R
2003 Cobra

 

[Robert M]

Where is the best place to attach the tie downs to the R? I am trailering mine this weekend.

Thanks...
Evan
2000 R
2003 Cobra

The one time that I trailered my 00R I put a towel doubled or tripled up in one spoke of the wheels and then used a tie-down strap that was meant to wrap around a rear axle (the strap with a pad). I fed the buckle carefully through the spoke in the wheel and ratcheted the car down by its wheel/tire assy. I used one on the right rear and one on the left front. The towel over hung the tire on the inside and outside protecting the wheel from any strap or chassis movement that would result in wheel damage. The car did not move and the wheels were unharmed. I transported the car approx. 90 miles each way to a car show.

One other thing I need to add............I was using the straps that were rated at 6000 pounds each so they were wide and the hardware on the end was large. I had no problem feeding the eyelet end through the rear tire spoke because the rotor is smaller, the front was a different story. The rotor is so large, it takes some creative twisting (without touching the wheel) to get that through the spoke between the wheel and the rotor.

R

 

[mrmustang]

Where is the best place to attach the tie downs to the R? I am trailering mine this weekend.

Thanks...
Evan
2000 R
2003 Cobra

Evan,

As a general rule (I used to transport others vehicles via open or enclosed single vehicle trailers) I've always used a short axle strap around the lower front control arm closest to the ball joint assembly, then a ratchet strap and ratchet to the trailer loop/tie down. Front left to front left, front right to front right. In the rear, I use a short (or long) axle strap around the rear axle assembly (IRS equipped cars either got long padded axle straps through the rims, or around the lower control arm closest to the center of the vehicle), cross the ratchet straps left rear to right rear and vice versa. Snug the straps down, release the emergency brake and remove shifter from whatever gear you left it in. Tighten the straps down, then reset the emergency brake, while leaving the transmission out of gear. I have towed many vehicles, both in open and enclosed trailers, for 10's of thousands of miles without an incident....Make sure to get yourself some quality hardware, 10,000lb straps and ratchet assemblies (why take chances to save yourself $40-$50) are highly recommended as you are better to have too strong a strap system than to have a system not strong enough in an accident or panic stop situation. As a side note to the above, if you can equip the trailer with an "E" track system and wheel bonnets, do so, but make sure that the "E" track is bolted and gusseted through the floor of the trailer properly.

Hope you find this helpful.

Yours In Fords,

Bill S.

 

[b4409]

I'll go with Bill S. on this one. Do not, I repeat, do not tie to the rear wheels like you should on a stick axle car. Tie with a strap to the inboard aft side of the lower control arms (I bought some nice one pc integrated ratcheting tie downs at Hoerr Racing Products) Any frontal impact will pull the wheels and the tie rods are the only thing holding alignment.

I've had a bad experience crossing straps. One comes loose and you hit a bump and the car moves sideways. Had a fox body almost hop off an open trailer with crossed straps.

Bruce B

 

[ac427cobra]

I place the hook on my strap over the small (approximately 1" dia.) brace that runs on the bottom of the IRS sub-frame. Have not had any issues with it. Nice access to that area also.

:thumbsup: :coolman: :beer:

 

[Warp03Cobra]

Thanks,

R is Loaded.

 

[Robert M]

I'll go with Bill S. on this one. Do not, I repeat, do not tie to the rear wheels like you should on a stick axle car. Tie with a strap to the inboard aft side of the lower control arms (I bought some nice one pc integrated ratcheting tie downs at Hoerr Racing Products) Any frontal impact will pull the wheels and the tie rods are the only thing holding alignment.

I've had a bad experience crossing straps. One comes loose and you hit a bump and the car moves sideways. Had a fox body almost hop off an open trailer with crossed straps.

Bruce B

For my future information, what is the difference with the wheel attachment like a stick axle car? <---in case of frontal impact? I am assuming the stick axle is a solid rear end car?

R

 

[Robert M]

(IRS equipped cars either got long padded axle straps through the rims, or around the lower control arm closest to the center of the vehicle), Hope you find this helpful.

Yours In Fords,

Bill S.

Bill - I see you have no issue/problem with the padded axle strap through the rim (on an IRS set up) as I had used on my 00R?

I am interested in any input, pros and cons of trailering that 2000R. I will rarely go a distance where a trailer is needed, but you never know.

R

 

[mrmustang]

Robert,

Pardon me while I ramble just a bit in my pre-caffienated, early AM state of mind, I will try to get my point across without taking up several pages:rolling: . Everyone has to remember that you are not exerting a huge amount of force on the car or the suspension past the point of a hard turn in equivalent to being on turn 9 (or in the boot) at Watkins Glen oke: ;-) . The whole idea behind the rear straps and the crossing of them is to prevent any side to side movement while the car is on the trailer. The physics of the movement of the car on the trailer as it is going down the road shows that the back straps should be crossed to prevent this unwanted movement. I have personally seen cars who's owners did not cross the straps literally walk off the end of the trailer, or up against the wheel wells causing damage. In going back to your original topic of discussion, on the IRS equipped cars again I try to tie it down by the control arms first, but if the car is set too low to the ground making this impossible, then the axle strap through the rims is the only option (unless you have the "E" tracks) and again is not exerting any more force than stated above on the suspension as you only need to take the slack out of the straps by snugging them down. While on that subject, have you ever seen someone tie down their cars with the straps until there is no suspension travel left (like you see on new car carriers), well, this is what causes breakage if you subscribe to that type of tie down method and the straps through the rims. Again, if you follow my instructions above and snug down the car (no more than two three clicks (MAX) past getting the slack out of the tie down straps), you should never have any problems unless you are using a trailer too small for the car in which you are carrying (ever see a 71 BOSS 351 Mustang on a trailer meant for a 914 Porsche, I have and it's not a pretty picture). Again, each trailer and each car is a bit different, but all of the tie down methods are similar in nature, if you follow the instructions above, you and your car will be in a much safer towing situation.


Hope you find this additional information helpful.

Sincerely,

Bill S.


PS: Now with that said, I'm off to get my first cup of coffee, as you can never (NEVER) have too much coffee epper: :banana: epper: .

PSS: You want my view on trailer vs tow vehicle next.
:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

 

[Robert M]

Robert,

Pardon me while I ramble just a bit in my pre-caffienated, early AM state of mind, I will try to get my point across without taking up several pages:rolling: . Everyone has to remember that you are not exerting a huge amount of force on the car or the suspension past the point of a hard turn in equivalent to being on turn 9 (or in the boot) at Watkins Glen oke: ;-) . The whole idea behind the rear straps and the crossing of them is to prevent any side to side movement while the car is on the trailer. The physics of the movement of the car on the trailer as it is going down the road shows that the back straps should be crossed to prevent this unwanted movement. I have personally seen cars who's owners did not cross the straps literally walk off the end of the trailer, or up against the wheel wells causing damage. In going back to your original topic of discussion, on the IRS equipped cars again I try to tie it down by the control arms first, but if the car is set too low to the ground making this impossible, then the axle strap through the rims is the only option (unless you have the "E" tracks) and again is not exerting any more force than stated above on the suspension as you only need to take the slack out of the straps by snugging them down. While on that subject, have you ever seen someone tie down their cars with the straps until there is no suspension travel left (like you see on new car carriers), well, this is what causes breakage if you subscribe to that type of tie down method and the straps through the rims. Again, if you follow my instructions above and snug down the car (no more than two three clicks (MAX) past getting the slack out of the tie down straps), you should never have any problems unless you are using a trailer too small for the car in which you are carrying (ever see a 71 BOSS 351 Mustang on a trailer meant for a 914 Porsche, I have and it's not a pretty picture). Again, each trailer and each car is a bit different, but all of the tie down methods are similar in nature, if you follow the instructions above, you and your car will be in a much safer towing situation.


Hope you find this additional information helpful.

Sincerely,

Bill S.


PS: Now with that said, I'm off to get my first cup of coffee, as you can never (NEVER) have too much coffee epper: :banana: epper: .

PSS: You want my view on trailer vs tow vehicle next.
:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

Ok. The trailer I used was a loaner from Primedia and was full floor alum. There really was no way for me to get up under the car, the wheel was the next best place. I did not snug the car down so the tires were flat, but I did secure it. The car did not move. As for suspension, the car had it's full suspension travel as I had attached at the wheels. Should a car be in neutral?

R

 

[ac427cobra]

Robert:

The problem with going through the wheel to tie the car down is pressure put on the rear tie-rods. By crossing the straps like you should, you will be putting excessive pressure on the tie rods an possibly throw them out of whack? This very same scenario happened to the other Bruce last month.

Hooking on the IRS subframe is the best choice in my book! :read:

 

[Warp03Cobra]

Success today.
Tow Straps around front control arms.with 10,000 lb. straps Crossed.

strap thru rear control arms. Crossed.

2-3 clicks for tightness all round.

Thanks for the advice. Having done it. I will go for the built in tow straps as mentioned above for the front.

Bruce which is the IRS brace? one rounded/bent side to side...or two diagonals landing back at the diff? Also, do you still use two straps and go to two D-rings to keep the rear end planted?

 

[mrmustang]

Front should not be crossed, only rears.



Yes, two straps crossed in the rear. left rear mount to right rear tie down D ring and vice versa..

 

[Warp03Cobra]

Only crossed rears. fronts ran straight to D clip. Typo. Big Typo.

 

[Warp03Cobra]

Hooking on the IRS subframe is the best choice in my book! :read:

Picture for Dummies please? :shrug:

Evan

 

[ac427cobra]

Picture for Dummies please? :shrug:

Evan

I know this isn't the best photo, but it's all I got!

This was before I did the KB IRS and had the stock lower control arms on the car.

I hooked the straps on the lower control arms. But right near the attachment point for the lower control arms on the subframe there is a piece of tubing approximately 1" in diameter that you can put your strap hook over.

It's going to be a while before the car is back in the hauler to get a better picture.

Hope that helps?

Bruce

:thumbsup: :coolman: :beer:

 

[mrmustang]

Bruce,

That would be the place I would suggest as the closer to the center of the car the better control in the trailer the tie downs will be afforded. :beer:

So who did you con into climb under there to hook up the tie downs ;-)


Bill S.

 

[ac427cobra]

Bruce,

That would be the place I would suggest as the closer to the center of the car the better control in the trailer the tie downs will be afforded. :beer:

So who did you con into climb under there to hook up the tie downs ;-)


Bill S.

My crew loads and maintains the car for me! ;-)

 

[Cobra R Man]

My crew loads and maintains the car for me! ;-)

Boy that must be NICE! What is that like? I'm lucky if some younger (thinner) buddy is around, when I load up. Of course that hasn't been a problem this year, damn it.