Belltech Spindles?

spazzyfry123

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I purchased the Belltech 4/6 drop a while back and finally got around to installing it (spindles, springs, and flip kit for the rear). However, I get to the tail end of the front install and hit a speed bump...If it's not one thing, it's another. I was just mocking things that didn't "really matter" (caliper, brake lines, etc.) when I dropped it back on the ground to check alignment angles and just to see what it looks like. Got it back in the air to finish everything up and it turns out that the passenger side spindle is a lemon (as far as I can tell). There is no physical way that I can see possible to line the upper bolt on the caliper to the spindle. The hole that was CNC'd out of the spindle for it is off by what may be 2mm at the most. Doesn't matter if I try and bolt the upper or the lower first...Just not happening. But before I have to wait another 2 weeks for a new one, I know there are PLENTY of people here that are running these exact spindles on their truck...Has anyone any special tricks that I'm not aware of to get this stuff to work? Maybe take the brake pads off and try and get it together that way? The driver's side went on without a hiccup, but this just isn't working. I've heard plenty of great things about Belltech; so when something like this happens, I can't help but worry a little. The truck needs to stop being a hovercraft on these jack stands and come back to earth.

Thanks a ton!
-Tyler
 

lightningmanny

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the best thing is to send it back.....everything has to line up....im dieing to drop my truck im going with a 2/3 and if it dosent look right il go with a 3/4
 

spazzyfry123

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Some grinding of the calipers ears will allow you to get the bolt in

I really feel quite idiotic not thinking of this earlier...I'm going to go run out and check it out.
Thanks, man! :pepper:

Also, since I already have this thread going...What did everyone do to "grind" the lower ball joint threads down to slip the 18's over with? I know they say it requires 18"+ wheels, but it's so close to fitting (actually does sort of...just won't work when in motion). I don't want to just take my grinder/cutter to it as I still want to have the ability to still use the ball joint if the occasion ever arises that I need to take the spindle off again.
 

SS THiS

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I really feel quite idiotic not thinking of this earlier...I'm going to go run out and check it out.
Thanks, man! :pepper:

Also, since I already have this thread going...What did everyone do to "grind" the lower ball joint threads down to slip the 18's over with? I know they say it requires 18"+ wheels, but it's so close to fitting (actually does sort of...just won't work when in motion). I don't want to just take my grinder/cutter to it as I still want to have the ability to still use the ball joint if the occasion ever arises that I need to take the spindle off again.

No problem! Cut the ball joint with a grinder or cut off wheel. I have put back my stock spindles back on the cut ball joint with no problems. Did it to see what the difference was in the track lower verse stock.
 

spazzyfry123

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No problem! Cut the ball joint with a grinder or cut off wheel. I have put back my stock spindles back on the cut ball joint with no problems. Did it to see what the difference was in the track lower verse stock.

Thanks for the tip, bud. I ordered some air griders and cutters a while back to notch the frame out in the rear for the flip...just waiting for the UPS man to show up. I'll give it a shot here soon enough :burn:
 

spazzyfry123

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'Bout to go nuts with this thing. I haven't been messing with it for the past week or however long it's been thinking I was done with the front...Wrong. I decided to take it for a test spin around the neighborhood yesterday and didn't have any problems...Pulled it back into the driveway and parked it happy with myself. Then I forgot I needed something else and went to back it up...Lower ball joint threads grab the wheel and stop the truck. DAMNIT.
So then I take the wheels off and grind the threads down some more and smooth the inside of the wheel from where they grabbed it. I smoothed the lower ball joint as much as I could...Any more and I don't think there's going to be a slot for the cotter pin to stay in. I put the wheels back on and spin them a ton of rotations both forwards and backwards...No catches or anything...smooth spinning. So I put the truck back on the ground and it drives fine forwards...And grabs the wheels like hell when I pop it in reverse. What the hell is causing this to only happen when the wheels are going backwards?! Am I going to have to grind the actual wheel itself? Getting upset as these spindles are supposed to work on 18 inch wheels :poke:
Has anyone that is using these spindles and wheels (ACSVT maybe?) have any pictures of how close the clearance is from the wheels to the lower ball joint from the drop spindles? Or what you did to make them clear?
 
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Kryo-Genik

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'Bout to go nuts with this thing. I haven't been messing with it for the past week or however long it's been thinking I was done with the front...Wrong. I decided to take it for a test spin around the neighborhood yesterday and didn't have any problems...Pulled it back into the driveway and parked it happy with myself. Then I forgot I needed something else and went to back it up...Lower ball joint threads grab the wheel and stop the truck. DAMNIT.
So then I take the wheels off and grind the threads down some more and smooth the inside of the wheel from where they grabbed it. I smoothed the lower ball joint as much as I could...Any more and I don't think there's going to be a slot for the cotter pin to stay in. I put the wheels back on and spin them a ton of rotations both forwards and backwards...No catches or anything...smooth spinning. So I put the truck back on the ground and it drives fine forwards...And grabs the wheels like hell when I pop it in reverse. What the hell is causing this to only happen when the wheels are going backwards?! Am I going to have to grind the actual wheel itself? Getting upset as these spindles are supposed to work on 18 inch wheels :poke:
Has anyone that is using these spindles and wheels (ACSVT maybe?) have any pictures of how close the clearance is from the wheels to the lower ball joint from the drop spindles? Or what you did to make them clear?



Did you use that goofy ass slim nut they gave you? Sounds more like you used the stock castle nut...which is a no go unless you have the spindles milled to use the castle nut.
 

spazzyfry123

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Did you use that goofy ass slim nut they gave you? Sounds more like you used the stock castle nut...which is a no go unless you have the spindles milled to use the castle nut.

I'm supposed to use that tiny thing? I don't know if I'd trust that. Is that what everyone else is using...?
 

Kryo-Genik

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I'm supposed to use that tiny thing? I don't know if I'd trust that. Is that what everyone else is using...?

yeah thats the nut you are supposed to use with those spindles unless you have your spindles machined for the castle nut. I sent mine off to another member to have them machined properly so I can use the castle nut
 

Kryo-Genik

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I have that ting thing on my truck and so far it hasn't falling off. Being useing it for about three year now


myself if i was gonna use it...id be using some loctite and safety wire if possible.
im a big nazi bout things like this...which is why i sent my spindles off to be machined for the castle nut
 

spazzyfry123

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Well I was wondering why I had that extra nut. I really didn't think that is what would be used. I guess I'm just going to soak it in some LocTite.

Good to hear yours is doing well, though, SS THiS. That is comforting at least :D
 

MJG

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Reviving an older thread here but I am swapping out my 20s for 18s tomorrow. I will be installing FRPP coils and ALREADY have the belltech spindles installed from previously.
Just confirming that to make the 18s work without issue I should trim the lower balljoint for clearance and I'm good to go?
 

02SILVERBULLET

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if you have the newer spindles they come machiened for a lo profile castle nut. you still need to trim the ball joint and then drill the hole for the cotter pin.

i have been using the jam nut for a while, check it everytime i rotate the tires. never an issue so far. i used red loc-tite and an air chizel to damage the end a bit.
 

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