Battery relocation.. With pics :)

[Bite u]

Well guys, Put the car on the jack stands to swap in a full upr tubular k... N figured will it was in the air I could relocate the battery. So started lookin at the car an looking for parts through my part time job at Oriellys (auto parts store for northerners) 2 main expenses this far r the wire and the disconnect switch.

This is my noid, fuse block and relay

Mounted in the car

Switch location

My stopping point as I ran outta wire..

All wires will b ran under the car, and I plan on splitting some heater hose and incasing all wires in that so it's double protected, just for my mind set and security... Waiting on more wire to come in to run from fuse block back to switch, and from alt. to battery.

Might I add this crap ain't cheap! Glad I get discounts is all I can say. More pics to come as I progress

 

[9CobraVert8]

Nice job! My recommendation would be to add an inline fuse right off of the positive battery terminal. Without one, if the wire were to fray, get nicked, something and short out, you don't want to have that power shorting out throughout the car.

 

[Hockeyman48]

Another recommendation would be to run a negative black #1 or#2 cable( with the red positive) from battery negative to the engine block where the negative cable was terminated before moving battery.Using the body(spot welds,etc) to flow current back to the battery from the sensors ,ecm,starter,etc is not the best method for connecting to battery.

 

[Bite u]

Thanks for the recommendations Guys, Hockeyman I'm not sure I understand complete.. But r u saying run a ground cable from battery to side of the block where it originally grounded too? Running through the oringal harness.. Cause I planned on founding that one out to the chassis, an right now the battery is grounded to the chassis as well. And had another on the other side that someone added with a 5' long battery cable lmao.. Only thing I can think of that I can put inline would b a circuit breaker. If it would hold the amperage. 150 is about the biggest I can find.

 

[9CobraVert8]

Here's two threads I saved that cover battery relocation pretty well. The inline fuse is the type you would use for subwoofers.

My-Battery-Relocation-Project-(MANY-PICS!)
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?t=276046


Battery-relocation
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?t=922160

 

[Bite u]

Pretty much all wired up, and cleaned up... Only things left r clean up the wiring on the underside of the car and mount the battery securely... Got to test it out and fire her up today... Cranked first try. Me like!

Thanks for the threads I will have to read em man

 

[encasedmetal]

you really shoulda put the battery more towards the back seats as you'll have to drop the fuel tank to secure the battery, and possibly to take the battery out.

 

[PACIFICGREENSVT]

Looks good! I was able to keep my carpet, I just trimed it back a little bit.

 

[PACIFICGREENSVT]

you really shoulda put the battery more towards the back seats as you'll have to drop the fuel tank to secure the battery, and possibly to take the battery out.

I got away with out dropping the tank. I used a telescopic magnet on the nut. It took me about 30 seconds.

 

[Bite u]

Battery box installed... I am not liking how the cover bolts down though, so I may b lookin at how to change that... But it's getting ready to hit the strip

 

[THE RED 1]

Hey quick question, whats the purpose of the solenoid block you put in. I ask because I did the battery relocation in my car and all I did was move it out back and run the cables to the power distribution box and chassis ground.ever since the swap my car will not start off the key

 

[encasedmetal]

Hey quick question, whats the purpose of the solenoid block you put in. I ask because I did the battery relocation in my car and all I did was move it out back and run the cables to the power distribution box and chassis ground.ever since the swap my car will not start off the key

when you move the battery to the trunk you need to have individual cables running to the underhood fuse box, alternator, and starter. your ground from the battery should go to the chassis and one to the block. this way nothing is feeding off one another and you will have no draws to prevent starting the car.

 

[Bite u]

Solenoid, fuse block n relay r all in there per the nhra rules or whatever it is.. Everything was done for the future, if I ever get fast and go to a big racing event or anything. It's expensive to do, that's for sure.. I'm prolly close to 250-300 into it, n that's saving money on everything. (Parts store discount). I more so did it to open up under the hood an getting the weight off the nose. Gonna b pulling the overflow on the radiator and moving it to where the battery used to b... Clearing room for something big eventually

 

[98 N/A 4V]

Is that the Moroso box? that's the only NHRA legal plastic box. Did you bolt or weld the rods to the car? Hope you didn't use any "J" hooks. they're illegal.

Here is how I wired mine. Shuts the car off and doesn't pull power from the battery when not in use. This passed tech at NMRA in Bradenton. Disregard the AMP section. That's incase you have a sound system.

 

[encasedmetal]

Is that the Moroso box? that's the only NHRA legal plastic box. Did you bolt or weld the rods to the car? Hope you didn't use any "J" hooks. they're illegal.

Here is how I wired mine. Shuts the car off and doesn't pull power from the battery when not in use. This passed tech at NMRA in Bradenton. Disregard the AMP section. That's incase you have a sound system.

surprised that works for you. my car couldn't pull enough juice for the starter wired like that. now I have a 1ga cable from the cutoff switch to it and it's perfect now.

 

[THE RED 1]

when you move the battery to the trunk you need to have individual cables running to the underhood fuse box, alternator, and starter. . this way nothing is feeding off one another and you will have no draws to prevent starting the car.

I have no draws, car sits for weeks and fires right up right now I have a push button rigged to start it from 12v source and the other from the starter trigger wire for now but I'd like for it to start off the key. You said"your ground from the battery should go to the chassis and one to the block" what block? Just to clarify I didn't do the solenoid fuse block like seeen above

 

[encasedmetal]

I have no draws, car sits for weeks and fires right up right now I have a push button rigged to start it from 12v source and the other from the starter trigger wire for now but I'd like for it to start off the key. You said"your ground from the battery should go to the chassis and one to the block" what block? Just to clarify I didn't do the solenoid fuse block like seeen above[/QUOT

the engine block

 

[PACIFICGREENSVT]

I used my old hood insulation ground strap from the block to the body.

 

[THE RED 1]

Well I'm gonna re check my motor-chassis ground tommorow maybe throw 2 on for safe measure and see if it changes

 

[stangbanger856]

Why does everyone mount there battery on the passenger side? If the car lifts the driver tire on launch then mounting it on the driver side should be the norm to conter the body roll. Hell it's what I did plus there is nothing under the truck pan to prevent install. Never had to drop the tank out. Just Messure,drill and bolt in.