Battery Relocation Pics ... the fruits of my labors!

I'D WIN

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Well, changed directions again and the wheels started turning...

Here are the fruits of my labors on this beautiful Saturday afternoon~

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Still got a few minor things to tidy up but all-in-all ...

Out with the old~

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I'D WIN

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Everything is in pieces right now ... in the coming days, I should have some new ones.
 

I'D WIN

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Spencer,

You mentioned it on the other site but for those who didn't notice or think to ask...

I relocated the auxillary vacuum canister to inside the fender well. There is a nice LARGE void that can be used to stuff a lot of chit.
 

I'D WIN

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That is true ... unless you get the Whipple too! Then we will both be in the same boat!
 

SWThomas

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Do you have the factory negative cables going to the terminal and then a large cable going down to the frame? Or do you run it all the way back to the negative terminal of the battery?
 

Fade 2 Black

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Looks AWESOME Martin!! If you could do a how-to with the new stuff you're using along with where you got it and part #'s we'd all be greatfull. :beer:
 

I'D WIN

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Looks AWESOME Martin!! If you could do a how-to with the new stuff you're using along with where you got it and part #'s we'd all be greatfull. :beer:

I will try to put something together over the next couple of days. Shouldn't be a problem. :beer:

Do you have the factory negative cables going to the terminal and then a large cable going down to the frame? Or do you run it all the way back to the negative terminal of the battery?

The factory ground is just tied into the junction you see on the wheel well. What some people forget is, ground cables should be as short as possible. Not to mention they should be big and you can never have to many grounds. This provides multiple, parallel ground paths.

Off of the battery, I have a ground going to the frame and then I have another one going to the truck bed and the main cab.

Up front, I have a 1/0 gauge ground coming off of the frame into the junction. I have another coming off of the cab and then an additional one coming off of the engine block.

I would say a majority of those who are having longetivity issues with their batteries (aftermarket/stock) is in part due to a lack of solid good grounds. They continue to tax the system with more heavy load accessories but forget to beef up the grounds.

I should also mention, insufficient grounds will lead to alternator charging problems and other electrical bugs.

On a 12v system, I ground cable typically shouldn't be longer than 3'.

Okay ... gotta run! :beer:
 

I'D WIN

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Here is what I came up with ... regarding the parts I used~

(1) Mr. Gasket Rubber Grommet Assortment.

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(1) Tech-Tron Dual Wall Heat Shrink Tubing Assortment. Purchased locally.

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(1) NY Pro Audio Cable 100ft Spool of Expandable TechFlex.

(2) JEG's Terminal Blocks

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(2) Stud Type Junction Blocks

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I also used an assortment of cable lugs, spades, etc that I stock in my garage.

Original relocation consisted of~

(2) 50' spools of high current 1/0g electrical cable.

(1) Painless High Amp Alternator Shut-down Relay

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(1) Moroso Remote Battery Jumper Terminals

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(1) Moroso Super Duty Battery Disconnect Switch

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(1) Optima Yellow Top Battery

(1) Battery Tray - don't recall mfg or where I purchased it ... need to research.
 

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