Battery Light Problem

Nestor_GT500

Member
Established Member
Joined
Sep 15, 2016
Messages
124
Location
Beardstown
Hey Guys my battery light turns on and its show on the dash check charging system and than the lights goes away i did some dataloging on the car and the alternator is charging fine how can i fix this?


952d3a77a6a70d8edcbd21b3ac103391.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using the svtperformance.com mobile app
 

moncho

Active Member
Established Member
Joined
Oct 12, 2011
Messages
413
Location
Out West
Don't know if this is still an issue but probably wouldn't hurt to try the following procedure. Now you may not meet the exact purpose as mentioned for doing this, but it may possibly help your situation.

Got it from a Google search...

"It is very important that anyone who loads in a new calibration file, fuel pump, MAF Sensor or throttle body (no matter what TB) resets the "keep alive memory".. especially but not limited to the 2010 -2011's

resetting "KAM" in these cars means first disconnecting the negative battery cable then turn on the head light switch. Do this for at least 20 minutes with the head lights turned on

(head lights on because the power that is stored in the PCM goes to the head lights)

Then turn head lights off after 20 minutes and reconnect negative cable. start car, do not touch gas pedal or turn steering wheel and make sure the A/C and heat is off and let the car idle for at least 2 minutes.. an erratic idle is not abnormal when doing this procedure seeing as how the car is searching for an idle. After the car learns its idle it should be fine moving forward."

Why do this you ask?

"In a nut shell...This allows the computer's adaptive memory to be cleared so that the the computer can adapt and learn (adaptive learning) the new changes you just made (I.E. new TB and or tune changes) much quicker otherwise it takes the computer longer to adapt to those changes. It can be especially helpful if there is an existing problem / code or failsafe etc."


Good Luck!
Ray
 

SCGallo2

Balanced performance
Established Member
Premium Member
Joined
Mar 4, 2014
Messages
1,196
Location
Southern MD
You are datalogging the wrong PID. Look for the battery voltage PID. Also, if you know for certain your battery is good (you can have it tested), your alternator is going bad and will fail. I just went through this same exact issue with my 2008. It failed completely while I was on a road trip 3.5 hours away from home. Replace it before it leaves you stranded.
 

RedZR

Active Member
Established Member
Joined
Jun 4, 2007
Messages
271
Location
West Virginia
You are datalogging the wrong PID. Look for the battery voltage PID. Also, if you know for certain your battery is good (you can have it tested), your alternator is going bad and will fail. I just went through this same exact issue with my 2008. It failed completely while I was on a road trip 3.5 hours away from home. Replace it before it leaves you stranded.


How many mikes were on your car when it failed?
 

RedVenom48

Let's go Brandon!
Established Member
Joined
Sep 29, 2014
Messages
7,973
Location
Arizona
You need a multimeter and check at the actual battery off the posts. Looks like you have Desired (commanded) Voltage. I dont believe thats the same as actual output voltage. Check at the battery, anything under 13.0v and dropping is low.
 

SCGallo2

Balanced performance
Established Member
Premium Member
Joined
Mar 4, 2014
Messages
1,196
Location
Southern MD
How many mikes were on your car when it failed?

My original alternator died at approximately 42500 miles. I usually shift at 6000 rpm, so it only had a handful of dyno pulls above that to 6600 rpm.
 

Nestor_GT500

Member
Established Member
Joined
Sep 15, 2016
Messages
124
Location
Beardstown
You are datalogging the wrong PID. Look for the battery voltage PID. Also, if you know for certain your battery is good (you can have it tested), your alternator is going bad and will fail. I just went through this same exact issue with my 2008. It failed completely while I was on a road trip 3.5 hours away from home. Replace it before it leaves you stranded.

my alternator all ready fail on me i allready put a brand new 200 AMP alternator i will test the battery i guess i datalog the car and send it to my tuner he said voltage was good


Sent from my iPhone using the svtperformance.com mobile app
 

Nestor_GT500

Member
Established Member
Joined
Sep 15, 2016
Messages
124
Location
Beardstown
Don't know if this is still an issue but probably wouldn't hurt to try the following procedure. Now you may not meet the exact purpose as mentioned for doing this, but it may possibly help your situation.

Got it from a Google search...

"It is very important that anyone who loads in a new calibration file, fuel pump, MAF Sensor or throttle body (no matter what TB) resets the "keep alive memory".. especially but not limited to the 2010 -2011's

resetting "KAM" in these cars means first disconnecting the negative battery cable then turn on the head light switch. Do this for at least 20 minutes with the head lights turned on

(head lights on because the power that is stored in the PCM goes to the head lights)

Then turn head lights off after 20 minutes and reconnect negative cable. start car, do not touch gas pedal or turn steering wheel and make sure the A/C and heat is off and let the car idle for at least 2 minutes.. an erratic idle is not abnormal when doing this procedure seeing as how the car is searching for an idle. After the car learns its idle it should be fine moving forward."

Why do this you ask?

"In a nut shell...This allows the computer's adaptive memory to be cleared so that the the computer can adapt and learn (adaptive learning) the new changes you just made (I.E. new TB and or tune changes) much quicker otherwise it takes the computer longer to adapt to those changes. It can be especially helpful if there is an existing problem / code or failsafe etc."


Good Luck!
Ray

thanks i will give it a try actually i just unplug the negative and put it back on and the light went away as soon i fire the car up again soo idk ‍♂️♂️


Sent from my iPhone using the svtperformance.com mobile app
 

moncho

Active Member
Established Member
Joined
Oct 12, 2011
Messages
413
Location
Out West
thanks i will give it a try actually i just unplug the negative and put it back on and the light went away as soon i fire the car up again soo idk ‍♂️♂️


Sent from my iPhone using the svtperformance.com mobile app

The procedure has you disconnect the negative side of the battery, then turn the head light switch on for 20 minutes. This completely drains the PCM of any residual voltage. Then turn switch off, connect the battery & fire it up.

Good Luck!
 

ShelbyGT5HUN

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Joined
Mar 18, 2014
Messages
4,698
Location
USA
I am in the process of changing my battery, does the KAM procedure come into play here? There is a Lund tune in the car.
 

moncho

Active Member
Established Member
Joined
Oct 12, 2011
Messages
413
Location
Out West
I am in the process of changing my battery, does the KAM procedure come into play here? There is a Lund tune in the car.

I don't think so as it would be like changing the battery with a stock tune. The tune/calibration file is in non-volatile memory in the PCM so removing power shouldn't affect it in anyway. Many have done so including me without any issues. Best to contact your tuner to make sure.

Cheers,
Ray
 

Users who are viewing this thread



Top