Basic engine build

[TenaciousRock]

Curious on this subject, it's more for research and knowledge transfer than anything else since I've never looking into the details of building an engine before.

I have a VMP Stage 2 kit on my '14 currently. I have billet OPG and crank gear already in the engine. I'm running the 82mm pulley, JLT intake, and the factory exhaust system on the car. I'm not sure how much boost the car is making but the car put down 562/485 on the initial email tune from VMP. I'm pretty happy with it although I would like to see 600/500+ which is probably possible with a tune revision.

I know the general guidelines say to stop at 650rwhp on the stock Coyote engine but some people fail before that. If I was to do exhaust, fuel, and pulley down (or some combo of those parts), I'd be pushing it too much I think.

My car has under 33,000 miles with about 1,400 of them supercharged. As I see it, when it comes to building the engine there are 3 options

1) Buy a built motor from MMR or other companies

2) Buy a "junkyard" Coyote and DIY with forged internals

3) Build your current motor before it breaks

My car is not a daily driver and I could be without it for a few months over a winter if need be so I'm wondering what all would be necessary parts wise to build the current motor. Beefcake has a Piston/Rod package for under $1600. Is that all that is necessary (plus labor of course)? That would seem really easy though if that's all that was necessary, to just pull out the stock pistons and rods, throw in the new ones and put everything back into place.

 

[WIST2013GT]

I'm interested in this as well. I have the itch to turn my car up.

 

[basspro302]

It's not as simple as slap rods and pistons in if you want to do it right a lot goes into prep and measurements. If you have some one build you a short block you will probably spend between 5-7k

If your looking to stay under 700whp get a 15 short block from ford you can get one for about 2k

 

[Livernois Motorsports]

Curious on this subject, it's more for research and knowledge transfer than anything else since I've never looking into the details of building an engine before.

I have a VMP Stage 2 kit on my '14 currently. I have billet OPG and crank gear already in the engine. I'm running the 82mm pulley, JLT intake, and the factory exhaust system on the car. I'm not sure how much boost the car is making but the car put down 562/485 on the initial email tune from VMP. I'm pretty happy with it although I would like to see 600/500+ which is probably possible with a tune revision.

I know the general guidelines say to stop at 650rwhp on the stock Coyote engine but some people fail before that. If I was to do exhaust, fuel, and pulley down (or some combo of those parts), I'd be pushing it too much I think.

My car has under 33,000 miles with about 1,400 of them supercharged. As I see it, when it comes to building the engine there are 3 options

1) Buy a built motor from MMR or other companies

2) Buy a "junkyard" Coyote and DIY with forged internals

3) Build your current motor before it breaks

My car is not a daily driver and I could be without it for a few months over a winter if need be so I'm wondering what all would be necessary parts wise to build the current motor. Beefcake has a Piston/Rod package for under $1600. Is that all that is necessary (plus labor of course)? That would seem really easy though if that's all that was necessary, to just pull out the stock pistons and rods, throw in the new ones and put everything back into place.

Hello, definitely a good inquiry.

On the 11-14 cars we like to stop at the 600 rwhp mark to keep durability and reliability in mind. The 15+ we fell the 650 is the ceiling and pushing 700+ is on the customer's judgement as we would recommend one of our short blocks.
1. If we are one of those companies. Sure!
2. Unless you have the proper measuring equipment and ability to machine and set tolerances I would not advise this route unless your after a gamble or short term solution.
3. It doesn't make sense to take apart a good running engine that you can use as a spare or sell to someone in a collision or failure situation.
The engine is worth more than the block and MAYBE crankshaft that you would re purpose.(if it needs to be turned it's not really worth it as Coyote cranks are relatively inexpensive)
projects domino and the best thing to do is plan the whole project and try to check as many items off the list at the time of the build your budget will allow.
We have short blocks starting at $4999. so buying parts, sacrificing your o.e. short block and running all over town getting excuses is not a recipe for a quick turn around and relatively stress free project.
Let us know if we can help

 

[ryan03svt]

Not to hijack the thread but I'm in the same situation. I'm looking to make close to 1000 wheel hp and wondering what the best / cost effective way to do this is? My current motor is fine, has been making over 600hp for over 2 years now. I see full coyote mustang motors on craigslist for anywhere between $3000-4,500 depending on mileage. I also see 5.0 F150 motors anywhere from $1,500-2,500. Would the best option to just be buy a f150 motor and get the short block professionally built by someone? Can I just drop the f150 motor in my coyote and sell the one currently in my car? Or should I just get my current motor built and save the effort of tracking down a motor? Sorry, kind of a noob when it comes to engine building stuff. Thanks for your help

 

[who-dat]

Got to make sure you have a good fuel system as well not just a stronger engine. Most failures occur because of bad fuel. The LSx motors fail on cylinder 8 because it gets the least amount of fuel.

 

[clinton2003]

price out stuff with a local machine shop (ask if they have coyote torque plates, if they dont, find someone that does) get some pricing.

a rotating assembly is going to cost you around 1800 for rods, pistons w/ rings, rod/main bearings. then a machine shop to do a hone on the block, balance assembly, gap rings, check clearance for rod/main bearings, an assemble short block. later can cost upwards of 1000. and thats you supplying the block/crank and assembling the longblock yourself. if you are wanting to have them assemble the long block then probably add another 500 or so. block and crank new can cost about 1500 for the pair. coming to about 3800 for this doing it on your own.

so shops that are charging 4k to do this while providing a warranty is pretty good IMO. remember this is a basic build and should support about 1000 hp without issues. the next step is sleeving a block (2500ish), I beam rods (1500ish, double what h beams cost), and wrist pins (250ish) which basically doubles the cost, but ability to run upwards of 1500 hp.

some money can be saved, but only if you trust your local machine shop. if you dont trust them, then go with a reputable shop online.