BAP/Wire Upgrade

[tonga3]

Hi all, after a chronic lean condition after 5000 rpms on my first dyno session I did a boat load of reading on this site and have found that my current BAP setup does not have the wire upgrade. I am sourcing everything local as its just a pain to bring things over the boarder. I decided on 8 gauge wire and picked that and the relay up today. My question is what fuse holder are people using? I found a regular fuse holder but it was 12 gauge, and an agu fuse holder but I can't solder those connections. The only other one I found was an 8 gauge Maxi fuse holder but am unsure if I can use the Maxi fuse.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers,

Andy

 

[Blueline]

you want something like this:

http://impulseusa.com/product_info.php?products_id=914&osCsid=b95e866860ffa95d5f82ec968ba6d8ac

 

[bigmoose]

^what he said. I use that same style fuse holder on my 8ga wire upgrade.

I also use a post style relay since its much easier to use 8ga ring terminals.
PAC PAC-80 80-Amp Relay Battery Isolator https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001EAWS6O/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_DjyMvbZQBFDFF

 

[tonga3]

Perfect, thanks for the replies all.

 

[Tractionless1]

Are you sure both pumps are runnin?

 

[tonga3]

As far as I can tell they are both running. They pressure is fine up to 5k but starts to drop off after that and go lean. it will still climg strong but AF goes high.

 

[bigmoose]

As far as I can tell they are both running. They pressure is fine up to 5k but starts to drop off after that and go lean. it will still climg strong but AF goes high.

Sounds like a bad pump. If you were good before with the same setup then I'm guessing pump. My old cobra with GT pumps had one go bad. I didn't see it go lean but at peak TQ the duty cycle was 100%. When both were working I saw 70-80%.

 

[01yellercobra]

What's your voltage like at WOT? I had an alternator that couldn't keep up and would do the same thing.

 

[tonga3]

I'm not sure if it was ever right ask just got the car in April. It ran fine but I wanted to take it to my tuner to check it out. That's when we found out that it was lean up in the top end. Not sure on voltage. I figure regardless of my pumps I should do the wire upgrade though. Have to figure out how to data log still. My last mustang was an 89 and things have changed dramatically.

 

[tonga3]

In my opinion the shop that originally did the work didn't do a great job as the car still had the PPRV and the car clearly lost pressure between shifts and hesitated. After I did the PPRV delete it cured that problem. So I'm guessing the tune wasn't that great as well.

 

[01yellercobra]

The shift hesitation can be tuned around. But less restrictions in the fuel system the better IMO. The wire upgrade is a good idea. But if your alternator is dropping voltage at the top end you'll have the same issue.

 

[Rich'sTRsvt]

Has this problem started after the PPRV delete? Some people have had problems with leaks and hoses after doing PPRV delete that has caused them to run out of fuel.

 

[tonga3]

I would say it ran better ofter pprv delete, no more hesitation between shifts. Don't get me wrong, the car runs great it's just that when i went to make sure the tune from the previous owner was good my guy said that it is running lean after 5k. Pumps are at 100% duty cycle i gather so my thought was to do the wire upgrade first to see if that helps. Car was making 535HP at 5000 rpms and I guess it just started running out of fuel after that. So after reading on here I'm thinking maybe the wire upgrade will solve the issue.

 

[bigmoose]

I don't think the wire upgrade will solve your issue. The BAP should be able to run close to 600whp. You have some other issue here. It could be a bad pump or maybe a split line from doing the pprv delete. Either way if it was me I'd drop the tank and check it out. I wouldn't want to go back to the tuner and find out your problem still persists.

 

[tonga3]

Alright, any advice on how to check if it's a bad pump?

 

[bigmoose]

I'd hook each up to a 12v source and see if it sounds like it is working. If you used rubber line for the pprv you could have a kink. If you reused the plastic line they are known to split or develop pin hole leaks.

I'd still do the wire upgrade since you need that anyway.

 

[tonga3]

I figured I'd do the wire upgrade anyways. I did use rubber lines, I guess I'll do the upgrade and data log it and then decide what fuel system to go with. Seems as though Return may be the way to go.