Ball Joints?

[spazzyfry123]

Well I was in the process of changing out my spindles when I got impatient and screwed the threads up on both upper ball joints on the upper control arms. Needless to say, the nut and cotter pin aren't going back on in that shape. So my questions out to you fellow L owners are this...
Are the joints pressed into the control arm or are they one with each other?
Are the factory upper control arms the same as that of a regular F-150 (or ball joints for that matter)? I figure it may just be less of a hassle to go buy some new control arms with the ball joints already in and ready to go. I can see where the lowers have "SVT" on them, but nothing like that on the uppers (weak looking things, that's for sure). So with that known (depending on whether they are pressed in or not), what would you recommend as a replacement upper control arm that isn't too expensive? Also, after popping everything off on the front, I would like to go ahead and get some new bushings for the new front suspension...Any recommendations?
Thanks a ton!
-Tyler

 

[Kryo-Genik]

Napa makes some good ones...they seem to be OEM'd by Spicer which should be on par or better than Moog.
Ill be using these in my spindle drop setup
Just ask for Napa Part Number 260-1540.

 

[spazzyfry123]

Napa makes some good ones...they seem to be OEM'd by Spicer which should be on par or better than Moog.
Ill be using these in my spindle drop setup
Just ask for Napa Part Number 260-1540.

That's actually what I'm doing right now...swapping over to Belltech 2" drop spindles. I'm guessing this part # is for upper control arms? And these wouldn't provide me with anymore drop, correct? I'm already doing a 4/6; I can't really go any lower haha

 

[silvblt]

The lower ones I have here are 260-1460 from Nappy. There are two different versions of course, a cheaper one and a more quality one I suppose. You do have to press in/out the lower arm ball joints though. I had replaced my lower ball joints 4 months ago and when I got the Belltech spindes 3 weeks ago I got new ball joints. Not thinking, they aren't like my other truck where as they are pressed in the spindle. Now I have two useless ball joints. :bash: I can at least take them back and get some money back for 'em. Good luck with your drop and be careful. Since Friday I have "removed" my chicken ears ram air, scrapped the bumper and teeter tottered on my traction bar brackets leaving Starbucks. Needless to say, I'm too low and am going to go back up a hair.

 

[ViciousJay]

yea i need to replace my passenger side upper as well let me know how it goes and if its not involved then ill do it

 

[JCHicks]

I just completed the whole front suspension replacement, (ball joints, UCA's, inner/outer tie rods, sleeves, idler, pitman, cam/cast kit , clunk washers, cut coil) took me all day sat even with me driving 10 miles to a shop to press in/out the lower ball joints.

Cost total = $550.00

Very easy to do, just take your time and its fun job.

Plus.... if me, a one arm guy can do it then its no prob for you gear heads!
:rockon:

 

[Kryo-Genik]

That's actually what I'm doing right now...swapping over to Belltech 2" drop spindles. I'm guessing this part # is for upper control arms? And these wouldn't provide me with anymore drop, correct? I'm already doing a 4/6; I can't really go any lower haha

these are the lowers...they are the napa premium or what the hell ever they call em. the uppers actually have to be replaced as the whole ball and arm assembly...in this case id go with a moog one.

 

[87vertgt]

I just completed the whole front suspension replacement, (ball joints, UCA's, inner/outer tie rods, sleeves, idler, pitman, cam/cast kit , clunk washers, cut coil) took me all day sat even with me driving 10 miles to a shop to press in/out the lower ball joints.

Cost total = $550.00

Very easy to do, just take your time and its fun job.

Plus.... if me, a one arm guy can do it then its no prob for you gear heads!
:rockon:

nice.......what do you say you do a "write up" ole buddy ole pal?

 

[JCHicks]

nice.......what do you say you do a "write up" ole buddy ole pal?

Ok I'll work on one from memory. Pretty straight forward though...

Never done a How-to before so......

 

[Kryo-Genik]

Ok I'll work on one from memory. Pretty straight forward though...

Never done a How-to before so......

step by step and pics if you got them

 

[spazzyfry123]

I will be replacing the upper control arms in the next couple days...I'll snap some pictures of the process for those that are interested. Should be really straight forward, but I'm sure I'll find a way to screw it up one way or another :nonono:

these are the lowers...they are the napa premium or what the hell ever they call em. the uppers actually have to be replaced as the whole ball and arm assembly...in this case id go with a moog one.

Yeah I figured that out once I got up to NAPA. I ended up just getting the Moog tie rod ends and I'll snag the Moog upper control arms from Auto Zone since my buddy that works there can score me the 20% off ticket :beer:

 

[87vertgt]

^ uppers are simple straight forward......follow the Front coil R&R in the how to section then just unbolt the upper a arm....

the lowers can be a pita if ya dont have a press

 

[PC PaiN]

How do you know, or when should you replace these as a maintenance type thing?

 

[silvblt]

How do you know, or when should you replace these as a maintenance type thing?

Easiest way to check the BJs are jack up the front tire, then grab the tire at the 12:00 and 6:00 positions and wiggle up and down. You can also test for the wheel bearings at the same time. There should be no movement at all. Once that is done, grab the tire at the 9:00 and 3:00 positions and wiggle back and forth. This checks the idler arm, pitman arm and tie rods. This test is much easier with someone else watching while you move the tire. Plus, any uneven tire wear can also be one of the tell tale signs. Hope this helps.:beer:

 

[ViciousJay]

any good write ups on this

 

[PC PaiN]

Easiest way to check the BJs are jack up the front tire, then grab the tire at the 12:00 and 6:00 positions and wiggle up and down. You can also test for the wheel bearings at the same time. There should be no movement at all. Once that is done, grab the tire at the 9:00 and 3:00 positions and wiggle back and forth. This checks the idler arm, pitman arm and tie rods. This test is much easier with someone else watching while you move the tire. Plus, any uneven tire wear can also be one of the tell tale signs. Hope this helps.:beer:

Appreciate it man:thumbsup:

 

[ViciousJay]

is there a replacement boot for the ball jpoint on the upper control arm... i cant justify paying 104 bucks form Napa for just cuz i need a boot

 

[Kryo-Genik]

is there a replacement boot for the ball jpoint on the upper control arm... i cant justify paying 104 bucks form Napa for just cuz i need a boot

are you missing the boot or is the boot destroyed?
to be honest depending on the reason for the replacement youd be better off just swapping out to a new one

 

[ViciousJay]

are you missing the boot or is the boot destroyed?
to be honest depending on the reason for the replacement youd be better off just swapping out to a new one

the boot got a nssty rip,

 

[spazzyfry123]

is there a replacement boot for the ball jpoint on the upper control arm... i cant justify paying 104 bucks form Napa for just cuz i need a boot

$104? You can pick up the entire Moog upper control arm with bushings and ball joint and all for $73 or something with free shipping from Summit Racing.

Part #'s K8728T and K8726T