Back in the saddle again...

USMC53CHIEF

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Ok guys.. I have been a member on here for awhile, however spent most of my time in the SN-95 Cobra section. I had a 98 Laser Red Cobra for a few years and built a few adapters for my intake and then sold some.

Its been a few years since Ive had the title to a Mustang, but I had come across a deal that I could not pass up the other day. I wasnt necessarily in the market for another one yet, but I was fortunate enough to be in a position to save a nice car from the "part-out demons"

I am the new owner of a 2001 Mustang Bullitt. She's black (dont judge me), and right around 25,000 miles. From my understanding, this is the history of the car...

The car came from Pa, and was at one time owned by a man named Keith B. He had installed SLP Long Tubes, SLP X, and SLP LoudMouth exhaust, FRPP 4.10 gears, and Staggered Black Bullitt Wheels. He also installed a Paxton Novi1000 S/C on it. I cant speak for intercooler or anythign on the fuel.

It was sold to a man in Middletown Ohio. In 2012, it was sold to an 18 year old D-Bag in Huron County Ohio. It was said that the kid purchased it for $16,000. The kid paid cash, as he was awarded a $50,000 lump sum insurance policy from his late father once he turned 18. The kid did not have a license, I believe he was suspended. The man that sold the car to the kid signed the title off. The kid for whatever reason did not put the title into his name, but just drove it around on fictitious plates. My understanding is, that the kid started to hear a rod knock. So he sold the car for cheap to a 20 year old that was a friend of his. The car sat for 6-7 months. The 20 year old paid another friend to take the motor out, and fix it. The S/C was taken off and the oil pan was removed. The main caps were taken of as well as the rod caps.

According to the "mechanic" if you could call him that, there wasnt anything spun or wrong with the motor. He took the S/C apart and found that it was all "boogered up."

The 20 year old could not afford to put the motor back together and listed the car for sale. I was told about it at about 8 oclock at night and went over to take a look at it. I offered him cash and got a great deal on it....I wont say how much because I might try to flip this lol.

I was given the car, and about 800 pieces of motor lol. The heads, cams valve train etc are all intact, and still bolted on the bloack. the pistons and rods are still in it as well. Basically it looks like a long block minus the crank. I inspected the crank, no scoring or anything that would suggest a spun bearing. Cylinders look good.

I have everything to put it back together... I think lol. But I have put one together before and am confident that I can do it, in a reasonable amount of time as well.

THIS IS WHAT IM REPLACING AND PLAN ON DOING:

I dont trust the factory pistons and rods as they were probably beat to death by above mentioned D-bag. I just purchased some Probe SRS Forged Flat Top pistons.

I am on the fence about the rods. I have a guy from here offering a used (30k miles) set of SVT 03/04 Manley H-beams for $300 or another guy offering a BNIB set of MMR Forged I Beams for $280.

Unless Im going to find a decently priced Kellogg crank in the next few days, Im pretty sure Im going to put the factory crank back in it. Im not paying $1,400 for one.

I already have King HP Bearings and ARP Side and Main studs.

Melling Oil Pump to replace the factory one.

So long as the cylinders look good, just a fresh cleanup and new rings with the pistons should just about finish the long block.

I have a friend who is offering a killer deal on a MM Tubular front K Member, so I will put that it. A new FRPP Clutch and then put everything back in lol.

The interior looks great....dirty but great. No tears.

All said in done, should be a nice car for someone. Im trying to build a decent platform. I am on the fence about a small blower...maybe a 8psi build to go with flat tops. Im not sure yet. I kind of just want to put it back to almost as factory as possible. Ive always wanted a Bullitt, but I told myself I'll never own one that isnt DHG lol....well here I am.

I will post up some pics once I remember how too. I have the funds now to do the build so it shouldnt take too awful long (knock on wood)

Does anyone know if I can get the Ford Bullitt cert somewhere? Thanks for reading guys... any input is always welcome.
 

USMC53CHIEF

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Oh yeah.. I need valve covers and a mach 1 chin spoiler. Let me know if there is anything you have that you think I may need for this Bullitt lol
 

Blkkbgt

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Very cool history on your new car and nice save. I have always wanted a bullitt, DHG would be my choice too.

Now regarding your engine situation I would go with a set of boss rods over the other 2 options if you stay N/A for the weight savings. With that said I would also keep the cast crankshaft as its proven to hold 600 hp and is also lighter then the forged unit.

If you don't mind spending the cash I'd either port the stock heads or pick up a set of tfs heads and spin it to 6500 with some nice cams.
 

USMC53CHIEF

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***UPDATE*** Took the heads off.... 6 out of the 8 pistons were victims of detonation. Tops of the pistons blown off and sucked into the other cylinders. Heads are rough, but not broken. The cylinders are scarred, but salvageable. If a max hone wont clean the block, .10 will. I had one shop look at my heads and told me that they are repairable. The cost didn't seem too bad. I was told they basically fill the combustion chamber with aluminum weld and then "re-carve" it. I have 0 experience with it so I'm going to another shop for a second opinion. The chambers are just beat up from the chunks of pistons and rings. I will probably have to replace some valves, but I think it would be worth it to keep the heads and block factory together.

That being said the pistons I just bought are useless to me. I was under the impression that all 4.6 motors (non 03/04 Cobra) had flat tops in them. I was just told by NaSVT that flat tops in a 2v will take my CR to 12:1. Soooo I have a set of forged probe flat tops for sale lol.

As far as the rods, I ended up buying the MMR I beams. I am not too concerned with weight as Im not making it a power house car anyway. Id like to make it just a tougher Bullitt with the rods and pistons... so that way if someone down the road wants to put a procharger on it, they dont have to worry about the bottom end too much.

I have taken pics of the process, just have to get a new photobucket account to load them up here.
 

Blkkbgt

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I was kind of wondering about the flat top pistons in your build, to me it sounded like you were staying N/A that's why I suggested the boss rods and cast crank.

Now in regards to your heads I really don't think you will be able to get more money from the car keeping the original heads with the block. I say that because there is no difference between those heads and any other pi heads. I also think you'd be better off buying a set of used heads and having them rebuilt.
 

USMC53CHIEF

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Right. I just bought a 08 CVPI motor from the Michigan State Police. I'm going to use the heads off of it. Most likely going to grab a valve job and some guides. We will see. I'm also using the motor as a reference to put the Bullitt motor back together. I didn't take it apart and am not 100% sure all the hardware is there.
 

Blkkbgt

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That's a smart move. One big plus to running those heads over the originals is the 9 thread spark plug holes.

Last time I looked into rebuilding a set of 2v heads labor was going to run me about 450 with me supplying the guides, seals and new springs.
 

USMC53CHIEF

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An update guys.

Bullitt is together. I started it on 3-11-16 for the first time.

Here's a parts list:

2001 Bullitt #1481 Black
25,658 miles
Interior is 9.5/10
Exterior is 8/10 (only because of some bug marks on bumber)
4.6L Iron Block .20 over
Probe Forged -17 CC Dished Pistons (new)
MMR Forged I Beam Rods (new)
ARP Rod Hardware (new)
Factory Crank
King Racing Main Bearings (new)
King Racing Rod Bearings (new)
FRPP High Volume High Pressure Oil Pump w/4V pickup (new)
ARP Main Studs (new)
ARP Side Studs (new)
2008 CVPI 9-thread PI Heads
Cams, Followers, lifters all swapped from 25k head
Bullitt Intake - Full Port, including internal runners, powder coated wrinkle black
Accufab Single Blade Throttle Body (new)
C&L Cold Air Intake, powder coated wrinkle black
C&L MAF Housing
Spectre Filter (Black)
SLP Long Tubes
SLP O/R X
SLP Loudmouth II Cat back with SLP tips
McLeod Super Pro Clutch
BBK Billet Clutch Quadrant (new)
BBK Adjustable Clutch Cable (new)
Summit Racing Short Throw Shifter with new Brass shifter bushing (new)
Timken Throw out bearing(new)
Felpro Front Seal
felpro Rear Main Seal
Felpro Valve Cover Gaskets
Felpro Front Timing Cover Gasket
Felpro Head Gaskets
Felpro Head Bolts
Power Stop Slotted/ Drilled Rotors, Front (new)
Power Stop Extreme Stop Pads (new)
Brand New Starter
New Thermostat
New Idler Pullies (2)
New Tensioner Assy
New Water Pump
New Belt
New O2 Sensors
New Battery
17x9 Black Bullitt Wheels in Front
17x10 Black Bullitt Wheels in Rear
Passenger side mirror was broken, so I replaced it.

I have a new set of QA1 Tubular K Member with the QA1 A Arms, however I didn't install it.

Like I said, I just started it. Clutch is noisy, has a little chatter to it. Car sounds mean. Once the roads clear up from the salt I will take it out and break it in.

I'll throw up some pics once I get a chance.
 
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USMC53CHIEF

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Thanks, I have two jobs now so its hard to find time to update this. I need to get a new photobucket account to load my pictures.
 

USMC53CHIEF

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I have 110 miles on the rebuild and now I am troubleshooting a #5 cylinder misfire. I am not getting spark at the coil, so possibly a bad coil driver or pinched/ broken wire.
 

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