Auto's and performance mods.

03lowram

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I know there's a lot threads about this... but honestly the search button sucks on forums for the most part.

I'm looking to get the most out of my auto 5.0. Currently I have a magnaflow O/R X-pipe, no resonators, into Kooks axle backs. JLT intake sitting the garage, along with a SCT handheld. Still trying to decide if I want AED to tune the car. Or take the car to a shop and strap it on the dyno so I can get the most out of the car.


I plan on adding the boss intake along with Longtubes to make up for the so called loss of low end TQ, that the boss intake causes. With a good spot on tune.. How much is expected for an auto with the two mods paired together. Like I stated I wanna get the most out of my 5.0 while staying NA for now. Possibly adding nitrous to the car come next month for TX2k13.
Also I plan on swapping the 3:15 gears out of the car, but not sure what gear ratio would be best with boss intake, Longtubes, and being an auto. I do a lot dig racing and low rolls. Between 20-60mph.


Far as visual mods the car is coming along nicely. I've ordered forgestar CF5's in piano black 20x9 front 255/35/ Nitto 555 and 20x10.5 rear 305/35 Nitto 555R. Eibach sportline springs, BMR Panhard bar, camber bolts.

So all the feed back would be great!!
Thanks guys!!
 
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me32

BEASTLY SHELBY GT500 TVS
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You may want to contact shaun at aed an see if he has someone In your area that can remote tune so you can get the best out of your car. Or maybe even a tuner out there he recommends.
 

5pointohh

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You'll need much more power than that to hang with some of the cars at that meet! Cars are crazy powerful, and 900 Rwhp+ is the norm. Build the motor in the car, and strap on a huge blower. I wouldn't even compete, and my car has a TVS.
 

casper gt

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You may want to contact shaun at aed an see if he has someone In your area that can remote tune so you can get the best out of your car. Or maybe even a tuner out there he recommends.

+1^ Shaun has support from a lot of local guys, he may well have someone in your area.

as to your proposed mods, when I don't do roll races/etc, at the track the boss intake didn't give me much help, the car was faster to the 1000' with the stack intake period & the only way the boss intake even equaled the stock intake was in the overall et but I had to shift at 7400 to do it vs the 7100 shifts with the stock intake.

IMO the boss intake hurts shift recovery times & thats the reason for the loss.

as to the longtubes, without a future build looming, I'd skip them as well.

reguardless of what some will tell you, 4.10's have proven themselves time & time again to be a very good match for these cars, 4.30's would be my next choice.

good luck with you tune/mods.
 

03lowram

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You'll need much more power than that to hang with some of the cars at that meet! Cars are crazy powerful, and 900 Rwhp+ is the norm. Build the motor in the car, and strap on a huge blower. I wouldn't even compete, and my car has a TVS.

Oh I know there will be some big HP cars out there.. Just trying to get the car ready by then. It's just a deadline the way I look at it. Just wanna have some Fun runs that weekend and weekends to come.
 

03lowram

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+1^ Shaun has support from a lot of local guys, he may well have someone in your area.

as to your proposed mods, when I don't do roll races/etc, at the track the boss intake didn't give me much help, the car was faster to the 1000' with the stack intake period & the only way the boss intake even equaled the stock intake was in the overall et but I had to shift at 7400 to do it vs the 7100 shifts with the stock intake.

IMO the boss intake hurts shift recovery times & thats the reason for the loss.

as to the longtubes, without a future build looming, I'd skip them as well.

reguardless of what some will tell you, 4.10's have proven themselves time & time again to be a very good match for these cars, 4.30's would be my next choice.

good luck with you tune/mods.

Thanks for the input bud!
 

casper gt

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Thanks for the input bud!


no problem, research is your friend with an auto car though, do as much reading as you can before you buy parts 2-3+ times like some of us (me included, lol).

the combination of mods is very important on auto's to see decent times.
 

mastwolf

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I dont know about the 4.10s in the auto cars. Not with a 28" tire. I only say so because you limit yourself. If you ever spray the car or start going faster, your going into 4th and 5th gears in the 1/4 mile. NO WAY to the 4.30 gears it just gets worse.

MBRP FULL RACE setup.. L/Ts all the way back I saw ~40rwhp bump in power through a locked converter on the dyno.

BEST BANG for the $$ would be a good off road mid pipe, and a tune that shifts great! Shauns email tunes will get your VERY close your local tuners power...and enven at that..his autos shift very well :)

I'v had stock gears, 3.31s 3.55s and 4.10s all on a 28" tire.
 

casper gt

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I dont know about the 4.10s in the auto cars. Not with a 28" tire. I only say so because you limit yourself. If you ever spray the car or start going faster, your going into 4th and 5th gears in the 1/4 mile. NO WAY to the 4.30 gears it just gets worse.

MBRP FULL RACE setup.. L/Ts all the way back I saw ~40rwhp bump in power through a locked converter on the dyno.

BEST BANG for the $$ would be a good off road mid pipe, and a tune that shifts great! Shauns email tunes will get your VERY close your local tuners power...and enven at that..his autos shift very well :)

I'v had stock gears, 3.31s 3.55s and 4.10s all on a 28" tire.

I agree spraying on 4.10's might be a problem, but n/a why in the world would you want to give up the mechanical advantage 4.10's+ give you at the starting line & shift recovery.

I have no problem with going thru in 4th to get the mechanical advantage of the gears at the starting line, the extra shift time pales in comparison IMO.

just my experiance up to this point & my car is out getting a converter now but the 4.10's are staying (27.5 et street radials), if it's all good it will stay that way but if the rpm's stay soft on the other end like the couple cars testing right now in fla. with 3.73's are seeing, 4.30's will be my next step.

being a bracket racer more than anything though, I will concede I have no plans for ever going f/i or nitrous so my situation may not work out with other folk's plans.
 

Need4Speed03

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I dont know how fast you wanna go, but if your gonna spray it you dont need a converter or really a gear right away to lay down some good times. My mods are in my sig along with my motor and spray times. And I respectfully disagree about the Boss IM, my car improved with it even with the stock 3.15 gears and stock converter - I think alot is in the tune and shift points.

That being said I plan to put a 3.73 with a 28" tire on shortly along with a second stage and some suspension mods, up to this point the car still has stock suspension with the exception of Roush rear springs and has gone a best of a 1.52 60ft.

Heres my latest pass with nitrous, 10.58 at 127 YouTube

I would skip the long tubes and put that money towards nitrous. Oh, also BBR can set you up with very good N/A and nitrous tunes. Good luck!
 

beefcake

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i ran 4.10's na originally, you really can go up to 4.30's n/a, if your trying to maximize 1/4 times.

as far as tuning, i can set you up with a great lund tune for your car

beef
 

Yagermeister

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11.63 here n/a with boss, CAI, TB, xpipe and 4.10s, no longtubes, no converter, 93 octane. 4.10s woke the car up tremendously!

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
 

calgarybandit

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With my mods at 4400 DA I ran 11.91 116.9 MPH 1.769 60 ft on my 20 inch rims. I have also had 3.15,3.55,3.73,4.10 and now 3.31 by far the best gear for autos in my opinion N/A or FI.
 

03lowram

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Some damn good times guys!
Thanks for all the input. Just gotta make up my mind now what to buy next.
 

casper gt

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How's 11.67 N/A on the stock 3.15's sound? Tune, tire, off road x-pipe, and converter. Just goes to show you gears aren't necessary on these cars.
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damn scott, just when I thought you & I were making some headway, lol.

not drawn out pissing match this time, I just would like to make a few points.

converters are expensive & they aren't for everyone since they only work at the track but gears help everywhere.

that said, since the circle d unit they are testing hasn't had a retail price attached to it yet, we will use the prototype unit we are testing in my car for comparison, it will retail in the -600 range.

so 600 for the converter, dyno time or extensive track tuning (or both, but in either case it wouln't be free for shure) add the install which is anywhere from free(diy but don't forget the crank relearn) to 500++

then threre's gears, they can be had for under 200, install is again from free (diy) to 300ish & tuning is a simple e-mail away.

in the end (in this case since it's the one brought up) what do you have? the texas car went 11.67 which is good for the mods, congrats, but plenty of stock converter/gear cars have been as fast (or faster) so I fail to see the point of being so happy the guy spent 2-3 times as much (compairing retail) to get the same result at the track just to say he did it with stock gears.

my focus on giving guys advice always has the "bang for your buck" factored in & thats why I went with gears first & recomend others to do it as well.

that said, my car is going into testing this converter with the 4.10's still in it, track times & write up to follow.
 

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