Audio Upgrade Ideas for Base GT?

[phfelts]

Hey guys, I'm just curious about what sort of audio upgrades some of you may have done for your 11-14 mustangs. I have a base model GT with the Sync package, but I'd like to upgrade the audio a bit if it's not too much of a hassle. I still have a 10" JL sub that may or may not go in the car one day, but I'd really just like to get a cleaner mid-range sound right now.

How are the factory stereos when it comes to wiring new speakers/amps?

 

[Badlilstang]

Hey guys, I'm just curious about what sort of audio upgrades some of you may have done for your 11-14 mustangs. I have a base model GT with the Sync package, but I'd like to upgrade the audio a bit if it's not too much of a hassle. I still have a 10" JL sub that may or may not go in the car one day, but I'd really just like to get a cleaner mid-range sound right now.

How are the factory stereos when it comes to wiring new speakers/amps?

Depends on how much you want to do. I did a Moconi 6to8 DSP. I caught the signal at the deck and it was kind of a pain since the color code didn't match what I was told but I figured it out based on the pin layout. I am running an ARC CXLR4150 4ch amp active to a set of Illusion C8 components. I put the tweeter in the factory 5x7 location and the 8" in the factory 8" location. If you don't have a shaker with thsoe two 8" door subs you can do a 6x8 coax or a 5.25 component set in that factory 5x7 location. I then did a Mosconi 240.2 (680w) to a 12" alumapro sub. Everything is kinda slapped in right now. I need to go back and deaden some more and do some more tuning but it sounds pretty good. I set mine up in a way so that I keep my Sync and everthing up front looks factory. I used to do SQ competitions and if I had planned to compete I would have changed the deck and tweeter locations. Are you trying to keep it cheap? How many amps do you plan to run and are you replacing all speakers? PAC makes a product that plugs into the harness on the back of hte factory deck that is already pre-wired for YOUR car to give you RCA outputs. Then you can just run RCA to the amps if you want to do it that way. Don't confuse this with the product that is a universal LOC by them.

 

[BadHabit2Break]

I did the Shelby/Kicker upgrade. Didn't want to mess with all the hunting and cutting things up.

 

[chonSVT]

I did the Shelby/Kicker upgrade. Didn't want to mess with all the hunting and cutting things up.

How does the Kicker rear subwoofer sound?

 

[BadHabit2Break]

How does the Kicker rear subwoofer sound?

It's a nice filler, not slamming or booming loud.

 

[chonSVT]

It's a nice filler, not slamming or boing loud.

Nice thanks. I was also on the fence about cutting and running wires in the car. Completely plug and play? Don't have to run wires from battery? My car didn't come with factory Shaker Pro subwoofer in the back, but it is a GT Premium model.

 

[BadHabit2Break]

Nice thanks. I was also on the fence about cutting and running wires in the car. Completely plug and play? Don't have to run wires from battery? My car didn't come with factory Shaker Pro subwoofer in the back, but it is a GT Premium model.

It is plug and play as long as you buy the 4.1 amp. Otherwise if you just buy the sub, you will need to tap into the OEM door sub wiring.

You still need to run the wires from the battery to the trunk.

 

[Badlilstang]

I didn't cut anything.. just T-locked onto the radio harness. I did have to do some modificaitons on the part to feed wires through the door. It all depends on what you are looking for. You can tap into your rear speakers if you just want a subwoofer. It's very easy. You can use an Audio control LC2i or a cheaper LOC.

 

[MikeWads]

Most amps come with high level inputs, so a LOC is not needed unless your amp only has low level RCA inputs.

 

[vortecd]

Saw this in Best Buy's ad and wondered how it would do.

Kicker 12" SingleVoiceCoil 4Ohm Subwoofer with 250W Class AB Multichannel Amp 41KCB25012 - Best Buy

Another idea would be to replace the fronts and replace the rears with two 8" (bracket for mounting) with an amp for the rears.

Any thoughts on this?

 

[Badlilstang]

Saw this in Best Buy's ad and wondered how it would do.

Kicker 12" SingleVoiceCoil 4Ohm Subwoofer with 250W Class AB Multichannel Amp 41KCB25012 - Best Buy

Another idea would be to replace the fronts and replace the rears with two 8" (bracket for mounting) with an amp for the rears.

Any thoughts on this?

You mean the deck speakrs in the back replace with 8's? Please do not do that! There is a sub box on ebay.. it's hard to beat that price if its built with the materials they say it is built with. A custom box at a local mom and pop shop is going to cost you more.

2005 2013 Ford Mustang Custom Single 12" Corner Sub Box Subwoofer Enclosure New | eBay

Then find a 12" subwoofer that works in a 1.1 or 1 cubic foot sealed enclosure.. if hte sub works in 1.25 you can shove 16oz of polyfill inside the sub box to help makeup for air space. There are a lot of good subs out there. That kicker isn't one of them. Go over to diymobileaudio.com and check out thier classified section. Get a good sub and amp.. use an LOC (Line Out Converter) to tie into hte rear deck speakers for your sub signal or use the PAC LOC made for your car. This gives you front and rear out incase you want to amp the front speakers.

Amazon.com: Pac Add-On Amplifier Interface With 24-Pin Connector - 2005-Up Ford Vehicles: Car Electronics


If you want to replace the front speakers you can but keep in mind there is only a little difference. Check out the Infinity Kappa that are 2ohm like these.... choose depending on budget...or invest in a component set that will require some modifications.

Amazon.com: Infinity Reference 6832cf 6 x 8/5 x 7-Inch, 180-Watt High Performance 2-Way Loudspeaker (Pair): Car Electronics


Amazon.com: Infinity Kappa 682.11cf 6x8 Inch 2-Way Car Audio Speaker Pair: MP3 Players & Accessories

For a subwoofer that will work in that enclosure that is a great budget sub.. dual 2ohm config will give you a final 1ohm or 4ohm load so remember this when picking your amp. You want about 500W either from a mono amp that does this at 1ohm or a 2ch amp that does 500w bridged at 4ohm. If you already had an amp you need to pick a sub that will work with it. Meaning the ohm load has to match for peak power benefits.

Amazon.com: ID12D2 V.3 - Image Dynamics 12" Dual 2-Ohm Subwoofer: Car Electronics


All your speaker cables and wires... It is hard to beat Knu.. 8g kit is fine for 500w but if you decide to throw in another amp I would get a 4g.. if you go beyond 1000rms I would look into a 0g kit. I am running about 1000W rms with my setup on a 4g and have no issues. They make kits for multi amps etc so look at what you are buying.

Amp Installation Kits, HDMI Cables

When you pick your amp your best deal is going to be used on Diyma... A lot of great amps in there. Keep in mind those oldschool amps like hte old Rockfords, Audio Arts, PPI, Arc, Zed built stuff etc are built like tanks and better than a lot of modern junk amps like that kicker.

Feel free to PM me with any questions.. I have been into car audio for 20 years and have competed the last 2 years. I don't know everything but I can get answers or point you in the right directions. Good luck!

 

[mhyjek]

If you want to replace the front speakers you can but keep in mind there is only a little difference. Check out the Infinity Kappa that are 2ohm like these.... choose depending on budget...or invest in a component set that will require some modifications.

Amazon.com: Infinity Reference 6832cf 6 x 8/5 x 7-Inch, 180-Watt High Performance 2-Way Loudspeaker (Pair): Car Electronics


Amazon.com: Infinity Kappa 682.11cf 6x8 Inch 2-Way Car Audio Speaker Pair: MP3 Players & Accessories

I would say at least in my case the front speakers changed the audio quality tremendously! I have the shaker 500 non nav in 2013 which comes with component 5 1/4 in the door. Switched to JL 5x7 or 6x8 forget but it made all the difference. Before the door subs would with base setting down low over power any mid coming from the door speakers. And to be honest what I listen to most is sports radio and it was near impossible without cranking the volume to hear speaking voice. Now works great on sports radio or when I'm trying to be cool and listen to newer music :lol:

 

[Badlilstang]

If you want to replace the front speakers you can but keep in mind there is only a little difference. Check out the Infinity Kappa that are 2ohm like these.... choose depending on budget...or invest in a component set that will require some modifications.

Amazon.com: Infinity Reference 6832cf 6 x 8/5 x 7-Inch, 180-Watt High Performance 2-Way Loudspeaker (Pair): Car Electronics


Amazon.com: Infinity Kappa 682.11cf 6x8 Inch 2-Way Car Audio Speaker Pair: MP3 Players & Accessories

I would say at least in my case the front speakers changed the audio quality tremendously! I have the shaker 500 non nav in 2013 which comes with component 5 1/4 in the door. Switched to JL 5x7 or 6x8 forget but it made all the difference. Before the door subs would with base setting down low over power any mid coming from the door speakers. And to be honest what I listen to most is sports radio and it was near impossible without cranking the volume to hear speaking voice. Now works great on sports radio or when I'm trying to be cool and listen to newer music :lol:

JL makes some nice replacements. I went to a full blown setup and won't look back. I am running Illusion Audio C8 (8" 2-way) front speakers. We have a team of guys who compete in SQ so I am meeting up with our Team Captain later on to get it fully tuned using his RTA. I would not recommend what I did to anyone unless you are just a hardcore audio guy. I would have changed the deck but I am keeping everything looking factory to hopefully prevent theft and keep my Sync.

 

[Mugzy]

JL makes some nice replacements. I went to a full blown setup and won't look back. I am running Illusion Audio C8 (8" 2-way) front speakers. We have a team of guys who compete in SQ so I am meeting up with our Team Captain later on to get it fully tuned using his RTA. I would not recommend what I did to anyone unless you are just a hardcore audio guy. I would have changed the deck but I am keeping everything looking factory to hopefully prevent theft and keep my Sync.

How exactly have you deadened your doors? Did you seal them up? I've attacked them with deadener and ccf no less than 3 times and I still have an irritating buzz I can't chase down. Did you open up the "enclosure" in the door skin to run those IB?

EDIT: I would run away from that kicker stuff. Only good speaker I ever heard from them required a 10 cubic foot box

 

[Badlilstang]

How exactly have you deadened your doors? Did you seal them up? I've attacked them with deadener and ccf no less than 3 times and I still have an irritating buzz I can't chase down. Did you open up the "enclosure" in the door skin to run those IB?

EDIT: I would run away from that kicker stuff. Only good speaker I ever heard from them required a 10 cubic foot box

I still have to go back and deaden the doors. I have buzz as well and I wonder if its hte enclosure. I drilled a bunch of 1" holes in the factory enclosure to vent it. The sound is fine and the midbas is strong but I have some rattles etc.. I think some of it is the factory trim piece. I am playing the Illusion c8 set down to 63hz with no issues other than the annoying buzz/rattle it sometimes gets. I may need to dead the panel that holds the window up/down switch also. Took about 45 minutes with a buddy yesterday and actually got it all to stage pretty well using the stock locations. Sound isn't as forward as I would like but we go the vocals pulled over to the center of the dash.