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2011-2014 Mustangs
Driveline/Suspension
ATTN: all relocation bracket users!
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<blockquote data-quote="Draiter" data-source="post: 13073619" data-attributes="member: 137128"><p>Well, I was able to get the gap on the passenger's side down to an eighth of an inch, have touched the driver's side. </p><p>What I did...</p><p></p><p>Loosened up the passenger bracket and dropped the control arm. Removed the two large bolts and the gold spacer. </p><p></p><p>Used a ratchet strap, hooked to the outside of the sway bar, and hooked into the hole just behind the front mount for the lower control arm.</p><p></p><p>Tightened the strap just enough to keep the axle from slipping backwards during the next step.</p><p></p><p>Used another ratchet strap and attached it to the "spare tire" drop in the trunk and the other end attached to the relocation bracket. Put some tension on the strap to pull the bracket as far back as possible without stressing or "over-pulling the bracket. Took up the slack to pull the bracket back and a bit more. (This is where the strap attached to the sway bar allows the bracket to be pulled backwards.)</p><p></p><p>With the two straps attached and tensioned I then torqued the bolt going into the "axle weight" area. Following that, I torqued the rear, upper bolt to the proper spec. </p><p></p><p>I then released the tension on the ratchet strap attached to the relocation bracket, but kept tension on the one attached to the sway bar. </p><p></p><p>I then installed to long upper bolt and gold spacer and snugged it. </p><p></p><p>Using the ratchet strap attached to the sway bar I pulled the axle forward and installed the lower control arm, bolt, and nut.</p><p></p><p>I then put one more click of tension on the ratchet strap to get the axle as far forward as I could.</p><p></p><p>I then torqued the upper and lower bolts and nuts to proper spec.</p><p></p><p>Finally, I released the ratchet strap attached to the sway bar.</p><p></p><p>I measured from the front control arm nut to the lower hole on the relocation bracket on both sides.</p><p>Doing this got me from a half inch back on the passenger side to a tad less than an eighth of inch back on the passenger side.</p><p></p><p>I would imagine I could get the drivers side to correct the eighth of an inch by tensioning the bracket forward on that side and using the sway bar to prevent the axle itself from slipping forward.</p><p>It may be a little much, but it fixed the offset...</p><p></p><p>Hope this helps a few of you out.:beer:</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Draiter, post: 13073619, member: 137128"] Well, I was able to get the gap on the passenger's side down to an eighth of an inch, have touched the driver's side. What I did... Loosened up the passenger bracket and dropped the control arm. Removed the two large bolts and the gold spacer. Used a ratchet strap, hooked to the outside of the sway bar, and hooked into the hole just behind the front mount for the lower control arm. Tightened the strap just enough to keep the axle from slipping backwards during the next step. Used another ratchet strap and attached it to the "spare tire" drop in the trunk and the other end attached to the relocation bracket. Put some tension on the strap to pull the bracket as far back as possible without stressing or "over-pulling the bracket. Took up the slack to pull the bracket back and a bit more. (This is where the strap attached to the sway bar allows the bracket to be pulled backwards.) With the two straps attached and tensioned I then torqued the bolt going into the "axle weight" area. Following that, I torqued the rear, upper bolt to the proper spec. I then released the tension on the ratchet strap attached to the relocation bracket, but kept tension on the one attached to the sway bar. I then installed to long upper bolt and gold spacer and snugged it. Using the ratchet strap attached to the sway bar I pulled the axle forward and installed the lower control arm, bolt, and nut. I then put one more click of tension on the ratchet strap to get the axle as far forward as I could. I then torqued the upper and lower bolts and nuts to proper spec. Finally, I released the ratchet strap attached to the sway bar. I measured from the front control arm nut to the lower hole on the relocation bracket on both sides. Doing this got me from a half inch back on the passenger side to a tad less than an eighth of inch back on the passenger side. I would imagine I could get the drivers side to correct the eighth of an inch by tensioning the bracket forward on that side and using the sway bar to prevent the axle itself from slipping forward. It may be a little much, but it fixed the offset... Hope this helps a few of you out.:beer: [/QUOTE]
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Driveline/Suspension
ATTN: all relocation bracket users!
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