ATI damper owners plz? look at pics plz, need quick answer plz

[BigmotoXer]

Threads in crank aren't the best(happened during last build)but threads are re-tapped and this time I made a damper install tool (12x1.5mm all thread, spacers, and 12x1.5 autograde lugnut).

My question= when do I know if damper is fully seated? I cannot keep torque'ing nut in fear of completely annihilating threads. I think it is seated but I know damper hub needs to make contact with crank-gear inside timing cover, not sure if it is though. Pulley seems to be aligned with other pulleys but that's just looking at it with the naked eye.
If someone w/ATI damper could give me a measurement between timing cover and edge of damper it sure would make me sleep better tonight.

I'll post pic--->

 

[BigmotoXer]

Post pics in 2 minutes, gotta do it from laptop, phone won't work.

 

[BigmotoXer]

 

[BigmotoXer]

 

[BigmotoXer]

 

[BigmotoXer]

 

[Slowb00st]

As I understand it you should get it started with your thread tool or a longer bolt and then install the bolt and torque to spec be it to OEM or ARP specs.

 

[BigmotoXer]

Thanks. Yes though the all-thread stationary in the crank(not so good threads) and turning the nut (exterior of the damper)I felt is easier on crank threads until damper is where it needs to be, then removing all-thread, then torque the ARP crank bolt.
So how the damper gets to where it's going isn't as important to me at this point as knowing the damper is bottomed out. That's really what I'm trying to learn here. My keyway gave me problems 2 years ago and I did it just the way you explained and being that the damper wasn't seated, and due to me over cranking the bolt it buggered the threads...I can't chance that again. Not sure why I can't get a chime-in on the position or depth of the damper from someone well versed on this?

 

[corepwn]

Thanks. Yes though the all-thread stationary in the crank(not so good threads) and turning the nut (exterior of the damper)I felt is easier on crank threads until damper is where it needs to be, then removing all-thread, then torque the ARP crank bolt.
So how the damper gets to where it's going isn't as important to me at this point as knowing the damper is bottomed out. That's really what I'm trying to learn here. My keyway gave me problems 2 years ago and I did it just the way you explained and being that the damper wasn't seated, and due to me over cranking the bolt it buggered the threads...I can't chance that again. Not sure why I can't get a chime-in on the position or depth of the damper from someone well versed on this?

I don't have a measurement (or even an ati balancer at this time) but I can tell you this:
When using the all thread you're really not putting that much stress on the crank threads. The thread damage occurs when turning crap into them combined with the high pressure needed to seat a balancer.

You will feel a clear difference in how the turning jit feels when it is seated. It won't easily turn even with force anymore. It kind of just stops for a lack of a better term.

 

[4VFTW]

pull it back off and measure the length of the crank snout to the sprocket then use a marker to scribe that depth on the inside of the balancer hub if you want to be sure.

 

[SMOKIN 02]

100ft lbs. with ARP moly and that should put you seated to where you need to be. My pulleys were lined up a 100ft lbs. Put the bolt in with the moly and check torque specs since your pulleys are lined up.

 

[BigmotoXer]

I don't have a measurement (or even an ati balancer at this time) but I can tell you this:
When using the all thread you're really not putting that much stress on the crank threads. The thread damage occurs when turning crap into them combined with the high pressure needed to seat a balancer.

Yes you are saying what I'm saying, I made this tool just for that reason= to be easy on the threads.

You will feel a clear difference in how the turning jit feels when it is seated. It won't easily turn even with force anymore. It kind of just stops for a lack of a better term.

Yessir thank you.

 

[BigmotoXer]

pull it back off and measure the length of the crank snout to the sprocket then use a marker to scribe that depth on the inside of the balancer hub if you want to be sure.

It has to be seated now because I removed my all thread the last time and the all thread was no longer perfectly straight so I'm definitely bottomed out....but for the rest of my life ,from here on out I'll measure and Mark as you say. Actually I'll mark before I remove it.

 

[BigmotoXer]

100ft lbs. with ARP moly and that should put you seated to where you need to be. My pulleys were lined up a 100ft lbs. Put the bolt in with the moly and check torque specs since your pulleys are lined up.

Yrs and then I torqued my arp 100ft lbs thanks guys