arp mainstud assembly with windage tray question

harvboi05

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so im in the middle of finishing up my forged teksid before snow fall and got to the point where i need to start doing the pan/pick up tube and etc. however, for some reason i have a ton of extra hardware! i know the one longer stand needs to be trimmed, no biggie. but check out how many washers and nuts i have.
2011-09-28_23-45-22_761.jpg


i dont get it. im assuming it goes on like this.
before:
2011-09-28_23-45-04_51.jpg


after:
2011-09-28_23-52-48_730.jpg


the stand that needs trimming is where im pointing. for some reason i didnt take any pictures before i took the windage tray apart. i got like 40 picture of everything else. should i used washers top and bottom? for some reason i have 10 extra washers and 10 extra nuts. wtf.

any help would greatly be appreciated.


just for poops i took a picture of before/after cleaning of the secondary intake valves. this is with IMRCs deleted and with seafoam down the intake prior to tear down too.
2011-09-28_20-51-51_708.jpg
 

encasedmetal

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I would call ARP and find out why there seem to be extras-I didn't have anything left over when I did mine (4 bolt mains though not 6 like teksid). why would have to the trim the longer one? never heard of this. are you damn sure you ordered the right bolt kit? (not heckling-just asking).
also how come you had to take so much out of the crank to balance it- worries me, and last but def. not least- make damn sure to fill the oil pump and fill tube with half assembly lube and half break in oil before you tighten everydown and put the pan on
 

harvboi05

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you have to trim the stand from arp depending on the type of pan used, aftermarket or oem. oem pan/pickup may require a trim, ill have to check for clearance. yeah im definitely certain i have the right bolt kit, i verified the part numbers with everything i have.

engine shop didnt even really inform me of a great deal of balancing requied, they actually said the crank looked good. ill give em a call and see whats up. i had planned on filling that puppie up with oil.
 

encasedmetal

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I used OEM tray and had no troubles. maybe it's the light in the pictures but those balance locations in the crank look new to me. only thing I can think of would be side bolts for the extra nuts and washers- but the kit doesn't come with those. weird and I am intrigued now. call ARP and update the thread if you will
 

harvboi05

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ill definitely update when i get more info. im beginning to question if those extra washers are for the head studs but the headstuds are much larger in diameter than the 2nd main studs. it was like midnight at the time. ill have to verify when i get home at 7pm. those 10 extra nuts blow my mind tho.

i thought they might go on the sides too but youre right, not included. i got the mmr side bolts and arp main studs.

if i dont need to i wont cut that stand, i wanted to measure clearance pickup-pan prior to making and decisions.
 

Cobra52898

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Make damn sure to fill the oil pump and fill tube with half assembly lube and half break in oil before you tighten everydown and put the pan on

I am glad you pointed that out, I am trying to learn every thing I can about rebuilding these mod motors before I tackle mine. But I do have a question, how do you go about filling the oil pump with oil once it is bolted to the block and won't the oil drain out of the pickup tube once the engine is turned upright on the stand?
 

encasedmetal

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I am glad you pointed that out, I am trying to learn every thing I can about rebuilding these mod motors before I tackle mine. But I do have a question, how do you go about filling the oil pump with oil once it is bolted to the block and won't the oil drain out of the pickup tube once the engine is turned upright on the stand?

you are priming them. as for the oil pump- before you put the pickup tube on you just pack it in. this way you are not spinning dry oil pump gears-see? also when you do put oil in the motor you don't just put it in the top as the heads hold so much oil you can starve the bottom end. you instead pump oil through the oil filter housing and you don't even have to spin the motor over to build pressure- you will have it as soon as you turn the key. if you have any questions at all I am here so ask away. resources can be limited as this is such a specific motor
 

Cobra52898

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What do you use to pump the oil into the filter housing and where on the housing, can I pump it in, possibly through the supercharger oil supply line? I have one of those hand oil pumps for filling the pumpkin, it looks like a big metal syringe with a handle. You put the end into the oil and draw back on the handle to fill it then simply depress the handle and it pushes the oil out. BTW thanks for being so helpful it is greatly appreciated. harvboi05 sorry not trying to hijack your thread.
 
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encasedmetal

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What do you use to pump the oil into the filter housing and where on the housing, can I pump it in, possibly through the supercharger oil supply line? I have one of those hand oil pumps for filling the pumpkin, it looks like a big metal syringe with a handle. You put the end into the oil and draw back on the handle to fill it then simply depress the handle and it pushes the oil out. BTW thanks for being so helpful it is greatly appreciated. harvboi05 sorry not trying to hijack your thread.

go to lowes and get a 10 dollar bug sprayer- cut the hose end off and put a barb fitting with I think a 3/8" fitting - could be a 5/8" but i can't remember and simply screw the fitting into your oil filter housing (right beside the pressure sender) fill the sprayer tank with 4+ quarts of oil and pump away.
 

Cobra52898

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harvboi05 - What rods and pistons did you go back with? I just purchased a set of Eagle H-beam rods, stock stroke which included the ARP 2000 bolts.
 
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Cobra52898

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go to lowes and get a 10 dollar bug sprayer- cut the hose end off and put a barb fitting with I think a 3/8" fitting - could be a 5/8" but i can't remember and simply screw the fitting into your oil filter housing (right beside the pressure sender) fill the sprayer tank with 4+ quarts of oil and pump away.
Very resourceful I like it. If we were in a bar I'd buy you a beer.:beer:
BTW does that also fill the oil filter with oil?
 
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harvboi05

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i went with -13cc wisecos and manleys.

i talked to arp and they were literally zero help. there is no where else any of this extra hardware can be utilized. so basically its just those extra 10 washers and nuts. no idea. the kit does fit two other engines...

good idea on the oil priming too. basically filling the oil system on both sides of the pump. duly noted.
 

encasedmetal

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Very resourceful I like it. If we were in a bar I'd buy you a beer.:beer:
BTW does that also fill the oil filter with oil?

and I would drink that beer:beer:
go ahead and prefill the filter as well before you pump it in. the other two quarts just pour them through the driver's heads like usual. crank the car- burp the coolant and then preferably dump the oil out- put in some fresh. and don't change again for another 500 miles or so. make sure you have some regular oil with zinc etc in it until you hit around the 2000 miles mark, then you can put in synthetic
 

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