Are my dyno numbers low?

[96BlackSnake]

I posted this in a reply in the 03 section but since most of you probablly won't go in there, I'll post it here as well...

Here are my numbers...

I made 253.9 rwhp at 5800 RPM's....

I made 261.0 rwlbs at 4200 RPM's...

Since I haven't made a sig, here are my mods...

96 Snake, 74000 miles
O/R H, Mac Dumps
K&N
4.10's

Do my numbers seem low to anyone besides me? My car's being taken in tomorrow to get the codes scanned for an CE light...(I have MIL's so I doubt its that)
The tech said I was running rich, I don't have a digital camera or a scanner so I can't post the run or the a/f ratio...sorry


Any help would be appreciated...

Thanks in advance

Anthony

 

[Booyah]

You made peak hp at 5800?

 

[cobra331]

I though 4 cammers were supposed to rev much higher than 5800?

 

[96BlackSnake]

In my manual it says peak hp is at or around 6,000 RPM's....so 5,800 doesn't surprise me...

Do you think my gears had something to do with lowering it?

 

[Crimson Shadow]

When I had my car dynoed a long time ago the peak was around 6000 so that seems just about right. As far as #'s go, don't let them bothe ryou that much cause you don't have that many mods, remember ours came 300 stock at the flywheel. Had a tune up lately? Weather would also have something to do with it. If it is running a little low that is, I didn't dyno mine that near stock so I wouldn't know.

 

[96BlackSnake]

I got a tune up at 72,000...I'm now at 74,000...

Well I was hoping with the O/R H, Mufflers and K&N...I would get like 5-10 rwhp....and I've been looking around and saw that 96's were dynoing between like 250-265 rwhp stock. So I felt a little dissapointed based on that information...

 

[blk96SVT]

I heard, but dont quote me on this, that when you change your gears you do lose a little hp, but not really enough to worry about, I saw that somewhere on here or another site, but I dont remember where I saw it. Maybe someone will chime in and answer that.

Tim

 

[96BlackSnake]

Hmm...

I'm thinking of ordering the WMS Intake (450 one) and Steeda's T/A with the Pulley's...
But about the pulley's and t/a...
Basically is it worth 320 price tag...

How much will it give me, and how hard is to install, any special tools required? Will I need a new/different belt or can I use my factory one?

What is the factory timing setting? And if I get it, what is a good setting to set it on? Will I need to run higher then 91 octane?

Thanks

Anthony

PS. Also, I would want to get another dyno run after I installed that trio...just for fyi, it would probablly be within the next 2 months...

 

[Peter]

96blacksnake- I had the steeda t/a and pulley's
before I put on the s/c, I would say it is not
worth the money, why don't you look into a
andersen power pipe,pro-m 80 meter, and
some LT's, I bet that will get you to close to
300 at the wheels. As for the car being rich, did
they hook it up to an a/f meter at the dyno?

Peter
:thumbsup:

 

[GR8WHITE]

Around 260 RWHP and matching RWTQ is about right for a 96-97 Cobra. Like alot of others have noted. Also ,like a few others have noted, If you haven't had a good tuneup and plug wire change recently, it wouldn't be a bad idea.

The Steeda pullies and TA are both good mods that compliment eachother well. The Alternator pulley can be a bit of a pain on older cars. Might have to impact it off. When doing the TA's remember to replace the belt BEFORE you put the relocated Crank Position Sensor back on. There isn't enough clearence between it and the trigger wheel for the belt to be routed through. The stock timing is 10 deg, if you want to run 91 then you can leave the timing there. Then just loosen three bolts and advance the timing (with higher octane gas) for track trips. I've seen between 14-16 degrees on the Steeda TA's work well. It will depends on the car though. Just avoid the detonation and it'll be fine.

 

[96BlackSnake]

Originally posted by Peter
96blacksnake- I had the steeda t/a and pulley's
before I put on the s/c, I would say it is not
worth the money, why don't you look into a
andersen power pipe,pro-m 80 meter, and
some LT's, I bet that will get you to close to
300 at the wheels. As for the car being rich, did
they hook it up to an a/f meter at the dyno?

Peter
:thumbsup:

Ya, they had an a/f, but I don't have a scanner or a digital camera to show you the graph...

You wouldn't still happen to have the pulley's and ta to sell me would you?

 

[Peter]

96blacksnake- I actually still have the steda adj.
still on, the pulley's I have in my garage somewhere
in a black hole if I can find them I would sell them
to you cheap. what was your a/f ratio?

Peter

 

[ALLNTRL]

The dumps are costing you power on such a mildly modded car, also if the check engine light is on the ECU is pulling timing. Get the CE light resolved, add a cat-back and the Steeda pulley's are a good mod (I don't care for the T/A though) and I think you will see alot better numbers. ;-)

 

[96BlackSnake]

I don't know if I'm reading the dyno chart right but for the a/f....it starts out at 15 at 2.0 then goes to 12 at 4.0 and ends up at like 11.6 at 6.0...

I don't know what that all means but there it is...

Yes Peter, if you could dig up the pulley's, that be great, also...would I need a new belt?

On and check out my new thread on my check engine light
My New Code Thread

 

[GR8WHITE]

Originally posted by ALLNTRL
The dumps are costing you power on such a mildly modded car, ...

I don't know how many times I've said the same thing to people. Most of them don't believe you when you tell them this. Small displacement motors need some backpressure to help create torque, which helps HP. :beer:

 

[96BlackSnake]

How much do you think its costing me?

 

[GR8WHITE]

With the echaust too open, it really hurts the torque the most. Since you're going through mufflers, just cutoff ones, it probably isn't too terribly bad. Around 10 or so would be my guess. They will be a benefit once the HP begins to add up though.

The biggest thing to remember is the stock cam profile is designed to operate and make power in a set RPM range. Increasing the flow on the intake and exhaust (plumbing wise) will make the car more efficient. However, you can go too far. Too much flow will raise the HP potential of your exhaust above the cams operating range. Meaning, if you car is too wide open the exhaust flow is setup for higher RPMs than your stock cam or motor will operate in.

 

[96BlackSnake]

Senors fixed, Purge Valve's fixed and I put in 2 new rear o2 sensors....

....yet my CE light is still on... :bash:

I think I might have a bad set of MIL's...maybe I'll see if I can send them back and get new ones...

Anthony

 

[blackfang]

Originally posted by GR8WHITE
With the echaust too open, it really hurts the torque the most. Since you're going through mufflers, just cutoff ones, it probably isn't too terribly bad. Around 10 or so would be my guess. They will be a benefit once the HP begins to add up though.

The biggest thing to remember is the stock cam profile is designed to operate and make power in a set RPM range. Increasing the flow on the intake and exhaust (plumbing wise) will make the car more efficient. However, you can go too far. Too much flow will raise the HP potential of your exhaust above the cams operating range. Meaning, if you car is too wide open the exhaust flow is setup for higher RPMs than your stock cam or motor will operate in.

So true, but you will be suprised how many people think that is not the case. I just let them learn it for themselves.

Just another idea. When you go to a steeper gear with the stock drive shaft, you can lose rwhp. Thats why its a good idea to get an aluminum drive shaft, to free up some rwhp.
After my fabricated SFC's, I am too getting an aluminum drive shaft.

 

[hantzis]

Originally posted by 96BlackSnake

I made 253.9 rwhp at 5800 RPM's....

I made 261.0 rwlbs at 4200 RPM's...

The tech said I was running rich, I don't have a digital camera or a scanner so I can't post the run or the a/f ratio...sorry

Anthony, your #s are a bit low. My 97 Cobra, w/80,000 miles on it also recently produced lower #s. I've got a 2 cat h-pipe and produced 248hp and 254 ft/lb of torque (SAE Corrected) My check engine light was on just like yours. When I dyno it again w/o the check engine light on, I'll post my results.

I recommend trying the little things first. If you haven't changed your ignition wires or spark plugs in 50,000 miles, I recommend changing them. At 45,000 miles I dynoed my Cobra and got 250rwhp and 253ft/lb of torque. The shop techs said I should change my plugs and wires(came to this conclusion because of the zig zag lines on dyno graph), so I did and when I dynoed it again, 3000 miles later, I got 258rwhp and 262rwtq.

Good luck!