Apten Coolant Mod and Heater Core Concern

[DynoDan]

OK, from what I've seen, the "Apten cooling mod" includes a frost plug fitting, a plastic T, and some 5/8" heater hose. That's all fine and dandy, but has anyone considered why they run that to over to tie into the passenger side? I mean the passenger side fitting / coolant runs straight into the heater core, and then when you tie in the drivers side, well that's prolly alot more heat / flow. Can the heater core take this? Has anyone ruptured a heater core?

Remember the old special service Fox body Mustangs? They had a restrictor in the hose that ran to the the inlet of the heater core. Under severe duty, and without the restrictor, the heater core would be compromised.

I guess if nobody w/ the mod has popped a heater core yet, it's really not a big deal. The question is why don't they tie into the return line from the heater core? This line runs under the intercooler and into the back of the water pump.

I plan on installing a kit in the very near future, but I'd like some feedback on why or why not to tap into the return line, as opposed to the inlet to the heater core.

 

[Wilson & Co]

What's up DynoDan,

I think your idea is good, although I'm not sure if 1.) It is any easier to install that way, and 2.) if there is any need since the possible issue you mention seems to be non-existent in the year or more it's been available. I think if anything, running it through the heater core will help pull a few degrees out of the coolant before it goes to the radiator.

I talked with you a while ago on the phone about my wbo2...from NJ.

Any updates to the wbo2 software/firmware that will allow MAF monitoring?

Thanks
Rog

 

[lucafu1]

i say ditch the plastic t- fitting. i used a brass one. my plastic one crushed and melted, it sucked. anyways i know the restrictor your talking about, i removed mine. but i didnt restict that much. i needed to cut the hose so it wouldnt kink. good luck on the mod. make sure everything is tight the first time. and dont forget to bleed the system.....

TTT

 

[DynoDan]

Hey Rog!

Well the new software should be available the first week of August. This will allow you to configure the analog channel any way you like. You can have it continue to show TPS, OR show raw voltage, OR supply a transfer function of voltage vs. units of measure. When you name the analog channel, the device settings change accordingly.

Say you want to log MAF voltage, you can confgure "analog 1" as raw voltage and name it "MAFv". This will be displayed on the main screen, and also in the device settings area. So now as part of the warning light or programmable relay output circuits, you'll see "MAFv" as a reference for the condition statements.

This also opens the door to boost and fuel pressure. We are testing some sensor / sending units at the present time.

Later

 

[DynoDan]

lucafu1 - thanks for the heads up. I ran to NAPA and got some beefy looking plastic T's. I couldn't find T's in brass or metal that were any any larger than 1/2".

What's the best way to burp / bleed the coolant system?

 

[lucafu1]

i got my t fitting at home depot.
theres a coolant tube on the right side of the super charger. and on top of the tube youll see a circle with a 1/4'' square for a ratchet. put a ratchet in there with a extension and unscrew it. start the car and turn the heater on. then fill it up untill it cant take anymore. i also had the radiator res. cap open. then i closed up bleed port and waited untill the t-stat opened and filled her up. thats it. email me if you have any [email protected]


good luck

luis