Have a 2014 gt. Paint seems better then most I have seen as for as orange peel goes, but I did my rear spoiler last night and it came out bad ass, was thinking about just doing the whole car, wondering if anyone here has done it??
anyone wet sand there new car??
- Thread starter onefastmf
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Doing the spoiler is one thing. You might have got lucky. If you've never done anything like this before, I would recommend you let a pro do it for you. The last thing you want is a thin spot or worse yet a burn through on an edge.
If you insist on doing it, just be prepared to have to respray a panel if it comes to that and don't skimp on materials. Get a good DA sander and plenty of high quality abrasives. I wouldn't go any more than 1,500 on OEM paint (and that's even pushing it).
After wetsanding, get a coating on it to restore some thickness (especially in the thin areas).
If you insist on doing it, just be prepared to have to respray a panel if it comes to that and don't skimp on materials. Get a good DA sander and plenty of high quality abrasives. I wouldn't go any more than 1,500 on OEM paint (and that's even pushing it).
After wetsanding, get a coating on it to restore some thickness (especially in the thin areas).
Check out Carpro's Denim pads for removing orange peel in a way that is much safer than wet sanding. They're an equivalent to 2000 grit
http://www.carpro-us.com/polishing-pads/5-1-4-denim-orange-peel-removal-pad/
http://www.carpro-us.com/polishing-pads/5-1-4-denim-orange-peel-removal-pad/
+1
however....with factory paint I'd stick with the carpro "velvet" pad instead of the denim (designed for thicker layered aftermarket clears). The velvets are 3000 grit equivalent and give you more opportunities to say "ok....thats enough" versus the more aggressive denim.
I've used the velvets with great success on a pc7424 spinning 5. I wasn't looking to totally remove the peel...my benchmark was just knock the tops off those severe peaks, maybe 50% reduction. Some areas where the peel was not that bad at all you might just hit one section pass. More severe spots might take 3 rds of section passes. 50% reduction in peaks still looks 100% better versus terrible peel. These velvet pads are slow at cutting and easy to control. you need excellent lighting to observe progress, and obviously a paint depth gauge would be a good investment as well....but I think most detailing warriors could use these velvets without issue. Much safer than attempting to sand
I have done a full car before by hand like 10 years ago And it was a respray not factory, but it came out great. I will have to check out the pads, it makes me nervous using any kind of machine. I went real slow constantly checking with a light. I started with 1500 to flatten out and went over with 2000, and finished with 3000. I may just do pads for the bigger areas. If I commit to it 100% I will post some before and after. Thanks for the info guys, also would it be OK to use the pads with a cyclo buffer?
I had spots etched into the clear on my 14 gt when i first bought it. The dealership used a 3000 grit 3m pad and did the entire car. all the spots are gone and paint is pretty flat, but there is still a slight texture. looks much better flat, but your wash techniques better be good cause you can see the swirls a mile away when your car is buffed slick.
those pads from carpro are neat I need to order a couple of the velvet ones to try on my SY 04 Cobra
Those pads are sweet, but seems like factory clear is thin as it is and the pads are soft so your knocking material off at the peaks and the valleys, so seems like just using block would take off more of just the peaks of the clear, which for factory paint seems safer to me.
I know a guy that took a brand new car.... scuffed the entire car and shot 3 to 4 extra coats of clear then wet sanded the hell out of it! looked like a custom show car once he was done.
He said that he did it for a few reasons: to get rid of all the factory orange peel, extra protection, and wouldnt have to wonder down the road about future polishing (and sanding) the car and burning to the base coat.
I said that to say, I would be concerned about how sanding could adversely affect your paint later (especially if you are not a pro) ... I would do it the way described above. it shouldnt cost too much because complete disassembly isnt necessary. just masking off a few things and removing emblems.
I also know a painter that did the exact same thing but the first layer of clear contained a heavy pearl, and that completely transformed the car's original paint.
He said that he did it for a few reasons: to get rid of all the factory orange peel, extra protection, and wouldnt have to wonder down the road about future polishing (and sanding) the car and burning to the base coat.
I said that to say, I would be concerned about how sanding could adversely affect your paint later (especially if you are not a pro) ... I would do it the way described above. it shouldnt cost too much because complete disassembly isnt necessary. just masking off a few things and removing emblems.
I also know a painter that did the exact same thing but the first layer of clear contained a heavy pearl, and that completely transformed the car's original paint.
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