Anyone running a Watts link??

[tbone7467]

Running a griggs racing watts link here. One of the better mods I did for sure . Big difference between that and the mm panhard I had

Please explain im thinking about gettin the MM Panhard bar. I read the watts link is overkill. Im open to my mind being changed

 

[Goose17]

Please explain im thinking about gettin the MM Panhard bar. I read the watts link is overkill. Im open to my mind being changed

Old thread, but I’ll give you some info... I’m running a Fay’s 2 Watts Link in my 2011 GT500. The panhard bar design makes your rear axle travel in a bit of an arc as it goes up/down. This causes the wheels to move left/right as the suspension compresses/extends. This causes undesirable side skipping effects with a SRA car and is most pronounced when you hit a good bump, in a turn under harder acceleration. The Watts setup allows the axle to move straight up/down and also helps minimize the upset force when one wheel hits a bump that travels to the other wheel across the axle. An IRS setup is much better for this, but a Watts Link is the closest you can get a SRA feeling like an IRS.

 

[2DXTRM]

Old thread, but I’ll give you some info... I’m running a Fay’s 2 Watts Link in my 2011 GT500. The panhard bar design makes your rear axle travel in a bit of an arc as it goes up/down. This causes the wheels to move left/right as the suspension compresses/extends. This causes undesirable side skipping effects with a SRA car and is most pronounced when you hit a good bump, in a turn under harder acceleration. The Watts setup allows the axle to move straight up/down and also helps minimize the upset force when one wheel hits a bump that travels to the other wheel across the axle. An IRS setup is much better for this, but a Watts Link is the closest you can get a SRA feeling like an IRS.

The Fays2 unit is pretty awesome. Bolt in, and allows for tailpipe clearance on the 79-04 cars as well.

 

[scottydsntknow]

I just went IRS. Solves all the issues created by the TA/PHB, isn't much heavier and not any more expensive to beef up. Cheaper if you get a good deal. Plus its comfy as hell on the street. I straight traded my SRA for a 99 IRS with low miles that already had Prothane subframe bushings, a bigger swaybar, an 03/04 front brace and FTBR endlinks. Put about $1500 into it. Steeda brace $150, FTBR tie rods, $250, FTBR upper and lower control arm bushings, $400, FTBR rear diff mount, $150, new FTBR cross axis links, $330, FTBR front diff supports, $90 plus the cost of misc hardware and a few tools I needed. Traded exhausts and rear shocks/springs too so that was also no cost. I'll upgrade to 03 axles when/if I ever get over 400rwhp. Not gonna do a TA/PHB even close to what I paid. I was an idiot and didn't do the tie rods when I first did it, they def need the beefy tie rods. Car has 0 wheel hop and goes around corners like a raped ape.

 

[STAMPEDE3]

Damn Old thread. ^^ You can do MM TQ arm and panhard for 1K easily.

 

[scottydsntknow]

Just the heavy duty max Motorsports ta/phb cost more than $1k.

Sent from my COR-L29 using the svtperformance.com mobile app

 

[STAMPEDE3]

The standard TQ arm is $469
The HD TQ arm is $649
The P/H bar is $395

So roughly $1100

 

[scottydsntknow]

Plus install, plus the cost of the control arms etc... It's really a wash if you are gonna go all out. For cheaps it's hard to beat the poor man's 3 link.

Sent from my COR-L29 using the svtperformance.com mobile app

 

[STAMPEDE3]

IMO, Most have done control arms already so they are just adding. Even so it is still relatively cheap for good performance.

Install? Anyone who has to pay for this install will damn sure have to pay someone to do the IRS swap so again a wash. After doing both I'd charge more for the IRS swap honestly.

As far as the IRS itself, It needs all the mods you listed to be decent. It is a POS, afterthought, Retro-fit piece fit into a old chassis that wasn't meant for it.
A good TQ arm set up will handle with it in the curves just fine and beat it in straight line almost every time if all else is equal.
That is the bottom line.

 

[98 Saleen Cobra]

IMO, Most have done control arms already so they are just adding. Even so it is still relatively cheap for good performance.

Install? Anyone who has to pay for this install will damn sure have to pay someone to do the IRS swap so again a wash. After doing both I'd charge more for the IRS swap honestly.

As far as the IRS itself, It needs all the mods you listed to be decent. It is a POS, afterthought, Retro-fit piece fit into a old chassis that wasn't meant for it.
A good TQ arm set up will handle with it in the curves just fine and beat it in straight line almost every time if all else is equal.
That is the bottom line.

Pretty much ALL of this lol!

lets just do it this way.. AIX racers?? Did they put the IRS in their cars?? Nope... 8.8 or 9" SRA with a 3link..

 

[scottydsntknow]

Control arms are still part of it... I always considered them a cost associated but I get what you are saying. No welding with the IRS, not everyone can, although I suppose its is simple enough to hire a welder to come out but that's another cost. Fully bushed IRS with aftermarket tie rods does damn good in a straight line and on imperfect streets I still prefer it. On a prepped track... that's a whole other ballgame.

 

[Shifty Powers]

A good SRA setup can be just as fast if not faster on a track. It does very well over a smoother surface.

A Watts link is not overkill, but it depends on what you plan on doing? Just street driving? PH and TQ Arm will be plenty fine for ya. Even to tracking it will be more then plenty. Have you switched to coils already and upgraded the rest of the suspension? Or doing it all at the same time?

The one thing I did read was that a watts will handle the quick side to side movement of esses better then the ph/tq arm.