Anyone Know: How To Remove “Hand Brake Equalizer Cable”

[GM2Ford]

I’m in the process of replacing the rear emergency brake cables on the car. I also have a new hand brake equalizer (the short cable that is wound on the pulley mechanism within the handbrake lever).

Does anyone know how to remove this cable?

I’ve searched the forums and found “006’s” thread about it, but the explanation is vague, especially with dead images that don’t load.

Here is a picture of it currently in my car.

 

[SecondhandSnake]

It's kind of like some throttle cables. You have to get enough slack, then have the cable pointing radially outward from the guide, and slide the pin on the end of the cable, with the cable, to the side.

 

[GM2Ford]

It's kind of like some throttle cables. You have to get enough slack, then have the cable pointing radially outward from the guide, and slide the pin on the end of the cable, with the cable, to the side.

I just don’t see how that’s possible with that bracket blocking it from moving.

 

[97snakebite]

U have to pull the cable from the rear caliper 1st. Then u will be able to remove the wire block thats abouve the trans. Its like a cable T. .that will let u remove the brake handle

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[GM2Ford]

U have to pull the cable from the rear caliper 1st. Then u will be able to remove the wire block thats abouve the trans. Its like a cable T. .that will let u remove the brake handle

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It’s a little more complicated than that. I have already removed the left & right rear cables to the caliper.

The only thing left to remove is the cable on the handle mechanism itself & it seems there’s more to it than just, pulling it off and wedging it. It is not as simple as the throttle cable.

This where I’m stumped at right now. I also took a few close up pictures to show that there’s literally no space for it to just slide out of that spot.

The pulley needs to somehow rotate without the handle,

...or the bracket needs to be removed... and I don’t see right now how that will happen.

I’m half tempted to just drill a hole through the bracket so “then, I’d be able to just slide it through.”

 

[GM2Ford]

I’ll probably have to look in the service manual how to do it.

 

[Goose17]

I have never messed with this. I’m just looking at the pictures. Can’t you put the handle down and THEN pop out the end?

 

[Revvv]

That doesn't look like a fight I want to be a part of. Please post a thorough how-to when you knock this job out.

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[Black Gold 380R]

I have never messed with this. I’m just looking at the pictures. Can’t you put the handle down and THEN pop out the end?

That won't work Goose. If you look at the earlier pictures you can see the whole thing rotates as an assembly.

I would just drill a small hole in that piece of metal blocking the pin in order to give you the room to slide it out. Once it's reinstalled the tension on the cable will keep it in place. I know that's not the right way, but if nothing else works that might be your solution.

 

[Black Gold 380R]

I have not watched this, but maybe this will help...........

 

[hotcobra03]

 

[SecondhandSnake]

I just don’t see how that’s possible with that bracket blocking it from moving.

If I recall correctly, I had it down in the released position, then rotated the wheel against the tensioning spring/slack adjuster until the pin on the cable was accessible from the front. I think I wedged the wheel in place with a screwdriver to keep it from rotating, but a pair of vice grips might work as well.

 

[GM2Ford]

Okay so, after attempting to remove the equalizer cable the “correct” way. I ran into 2 major issues.

Issues:

1. Holding the coil off and applying enough force to bring it back far enough to get it into the “spring back hole stopper” (that a skinny screw driver slides into or similar tool) is difficult & frustrating.

2. After re-reading the how-to installing in the TSBs... I drank a beer and said, the hell with it.

Resolution:

This is where steady hands and the artistic side of you all will come to play.

1. Take a dremmel and carve a “half moon” shape into the bracket that is in the way of the equalizer cable slide pin.

2. Remove & Install new cable.

Note: I was worried that there was a possibility of the equalizers slide pin somewhow removing itself during operation. I quickly realized that I could worry more about a shark having my balls for breakfast through the toilet lol. Seriously though... even with that clearance hole carved out. I still had a hell of a time removing it because of the tension that the braided line inside the pulley apples to the pin itself if you try to rotate/twist the pin more than 10 degrees. I had to actually cut the line and pull the severed end through the pulley & THEN I could easily remove it. Like I said, the odds of the cable doing that is possibly the same odds of you throwing up from drinking a shot of beer.

There you have it! Now if I ever need to service the equalizer cable again. It can be done in less than 10 mins.

Here are the pictures of the job. Also, I removed the handbrake from the vehicle. The dremmel creates a lot of dust and very fine metal shards that you do not want in the car or on your skin. They are extremely tiny and would be a serious pain to clean up from the interior.

 

[GM2Ford]

Update:

Turns out that the pulley DOES rotate independently from the bracket. It’s actually not that bad to move. I figured this out by adjusting the handle with new driver and passenger e brake cables. Along with a new equalizer.

In this picture you can see the pulley moved. So essentially you don’t not have to grind anything.

In this picture you can see that I’m on the 1st setting of the e brake handle. Confirming that my cables are brand new.

 

[DonMTV]

@GM2Ford I am doing my e-brake handle cable removal and install, and have read through your thread. I have a 2003 Cobra, and my handle setup is so different then what I see in your pictures. I was able to finally release the tension in the wheel so that the cable came out of the slot on the wheel. I have loosened the rear bolt of the handle mount. That bolt came out. My problem is that I have tried to loosen the front bolt, and it got loose, and now it seems to move from where ever that bolt is mounted to the chassis. I had to stop as I don't want to get myself in a position of not getting the bolt out when I ran out of light today. It looks to me that you had to put a new bolt in. Is that true?