Any plumbing & heating guys in here, have ?

[BrianP]

My hot water, no longer provides hot water. I am at a loss what else to check. I tried having the thermostat for the heat kick on the boiler, and it did, with out issue. The problem is in the hot water side for showers or what ever.

I jumped out where all the wires come into the boiler, for the thermostat and the boiler came on, and i manually opened the zone valve that goes to the hot water tank. So i know i can get it going to atleast take a shower.

I'm just confused as to what it could be thats making it not run for hot water. I checked voltage at the zone head and there is voltage, and same for the control on the side of the hot water tank. I checked continuity on the control for the tank, and with the dial turned all the way up, my meter shows the switch is open, and same thing if i turn it all the way down. i tried using a jumper at the control, and watched for ten minutes as the whole system just sat there and stared my in the face laughing at me. I dont know if there is something else i can try to jump out to eliminate a device, or if there is an easier solution.

If anyone can help me at all, id greatly appreciate it

 

[x NOODLES x]

So its a boiler wit a storage tank, if Im reading you correct. Not just a HotWater Tank?

And you're absolutely sure the thermostat in the storage tank is working?

If it is then Im out. lol. You then need an HVAC or electrician. to chime in.

 

[Eds01Lightning]

If it's a water heater you may have one or both elements burned out. If indeed some type of boiler..I have no clue.

 

[Mr. Mach-ete]

Maryland Master HVAC contractor at your service sir.

From what I've read you have a boiler with an indirect hot water storage tank? Typically, when the Thermostat at the water storage tank calls for heat the zone relay opens (24vac) at the same time a circulator pump kicks on and allows boiler water to circulate from the boiler through the heat exchanger inside the water tank heating the potable water inside until the thermostat has been satisfied.

You say you checked for 24 vac at the solenoid coil? You stated you manually opened the coil regardless. Have you checked the circulator pump that drives the water from the boiler through the tank. Some systems have individual pumps for each zone off the boiler while others utilize one pump with multiple zone valves opening and closing on demand.

My guess is your zone circulator pump has failed.

 

[Mr. Mach-ete]

...or your primary circ pump has failed, either way check to see if the pump is pumping, if that's possible. Are the boiler lines that feed the water heater's heat exchanger cold/cool to the touch? If the pump has failed the pipe post the pump will be cold to the touch. If there's anyway you can measure the voltage at the pump, with out shocking yourself, you should read 115vac. If no voltage then the relay that drives the pump might be bad.

Hard to tell with out more info.

 

[BrianP]

the circulator is working fine. It is a boiler with an indirect hot water heater and storage tank. Even if the Thermostat in the storage tank was bad, and i jumped the wires out, shouldnt that call as if the thermostat was? i mean, it is just a switch. the one circulator feeds both zones, meaning it splits after the circulator pump.

If i jumped out at the hot water tank thermostat, what would cause it to not come on, unless the zone head is faulty? because thats kinda what im leaning to ATM.

Again, the boiler system comes on as it should when calling for heat for the house, as in the forced hot water for the basebords in the living spaces.

 

[Mr. Mach-ete]

Jumping the thermostat out at the water storage tank should create an electrical pathway for the current to flow and energize the 24vac solenoid coil that allows 180 boiler water to circulate via a pump from the boiler through the water storage tank and back to the boiler, it's just a loop.

Take a voltage meter and read the voltage across the thermostat. If it read 24 vac then the thermostat is open. If it reads 0.00 then you either have a closed thermostat or no voltage at the thermostat.

If you read 0.00 VAC, check to see if you have control voltage at the thermostat by reading the applied voltage from one or both terminals to ground. If you read 0.00 from either leg to ground you have no control voltage at all. If you read 24VAC from either terminal to ground you have control voltage but the thermostat is not closing. Get back to me, let me know what voltage readings you have. If your patient we might walk through this, if not, call your local HAVC contractor.

 

[BrianP]

Heres the funny part, i work for an HVAC contractor...i just started as a helper right now but its summer and i dont quite get a chance to work on heat...ill have to check it tonight when i get home from work

 

[ff500]

I just got back from the Cape, we have a place in West Yarmouth. What kind of control panel do you have?