Any Factory Stock NMRA Racers?

03CobraJet

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I have been considering trying to race in the NMRA Factory Stock class. I know that my car is not fast enough right now to be competitive, but I was wondering from those of you who do race in it what it might take to be competitive. The stockers seem to go any where from mid to low 11's. I read the rules for the class and it seems really stricked as far as what you can do. Any advise would be appreciated. Thanks

Mods are in my sig.
 

knkfiend

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my best friend runs FS. number 6158. it is super expensive!!! he has more money in his car than i did in my turbo car. it also hasnt stayed together very well. i think we got it right this time.

for what its worth, he went 118.6 at atco this past weekend which is flying! just need to get the 60' down

if you have any specific questions, PM me
 

TOOT

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I ran in the True Street Class this past Sat at Atco. My times were off due to me :sleeping: at the tree, much room for improvement.
 

knkfiend

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i did too. reaction time doesnt play into your time though, just so you know, you could sit there for 5 minutes and still run 13.0
 

98 N/A 4V

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I have been considering trying to race in the NMRA Factory Stock class. I know that my car is not fast enough right now to be competitive, but I was wondering from those of you who do race in it what it might take to be competitive. The stockers seem to go any where from mid to low 11's. I read the rules for the class and it seems really stricked as far as what you can do. Any advise would be appreciated. Thanks

Mods are in my sig.

Hooker long tubes (LT's not allowed), o/r x pipe, 4.33 gear (exceeds the maximum gear ratio allowed), Detroit True Trac, Strange 31 c-clip axles, UPR Upper & Lower control arms, Strange adjustable shocks & struts, Eibach Pro Kit, Hurst shifter, Diablo predator, MT ET Street 26x11.50x15 (going to have to switch to BFG's) on 15x8 Weld Pro Star

Minum weight requirement is 3200lbs (or 3400 can't remember). About 2 years ago the 4v's took a huge hit by reducing the gear ratio allowed cause they were running away from the pushrod guys and the class was getting too fast. So now all the 4v guys are blowing up drivetrains left and right. But last year a 2v won FS. They get a weight break and can run as much gear as they want. If you're not running 11.80's or better you're not going to be competitive. That class used to be an entry level heads up class but now it seems everyone has a purpose built motor and a pretty expensive chassis to go along with it. I think you'd have more fun running True Street or Mod Comp.


-Mark
 
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knkfiend

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Hooker long tubes (LT's not allowed), o/r x pipe, 4.33 gear (exceeds the maximum gear ratio allowed), Detroit True Trac, Strange 31 c-clip axles, UPR Upper & Lower control arms, Strange adjustable shocks & struts, Eibach Pro Kit, Hurst shifter, Diablo predator, MT ET Street 26x11.50x15 (going to have to switch to BFG's) on 15x8 Weld Pro Star

Minum weight requirement is 3200lbs (or 3400 can't remember). About 2 years ago the 4v's took a huge hit by reducing the gear ratio allowed cause they were running away from the pushrod guys and the class was getting too fast. So now all the 4v guys are blowing up drivetrains left and right. But last year a 2v won FS. They get a weight break and can run as much gear as they want. If you're not running 11.80's or better you're not going to be competitive. That class used to be an entry level heads up class but now it seems everyone has a purpose built motor and a pretty expensive chassis to go along with it. I think you'd have more fun running True Street or Mod Comp.


-Mark

yeah the 4v class is really taking a hit. it does suck too because my buddies pushrod car isnt even that streetable anymore with the amount of duration hes got.
 

03CobraJet

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Thanks guys for the information. I though it was an entry level heads up class but it seems that it really is not.
 

knkfiend

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Thanks guys for the information. I though it was an entry level heads up class but it seems that it really is not.


yeah, its real expensive. race true street, go for the 12.0 class. youll win 100 bucks every race and its alot less money youll have to spend
 

F8L SN8K

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Factory Stock started to be the cheap way for the average joe to start heads up racing. It is far from that now. If you want to be competitive sell your car and get a shell of a car that the motor was toasted and start from the ground up. 8-10K for the motor 3K for tranny, 5k for misc...and bank on spending $1200-$2000 per race to go and compete. This is if you do thing economically and dont start breaking things(which you will) Heads up racing is awsome but it is not for someone on a tight budget.
 

9cobra4

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Hooker long tubes (LT's not allowed), o/r x pipe, 4.33 gear (exceeds the maximum gear ratio allowed), Detroit True Trac, Strange 31 c-clip axles, UPR Upper & Lower control arms, Strange adjustable shocks & struts, Eibach Pro Kit, Hurst shifter, Diablo predator, MT ET Street 26x11.50x15 (going to have to switch to BFG's) on 15x8 Weld Pro Star

Minum weight requirement is 3200lbs (or 3400 can't remember). About 2 years ago the 4v's took a huge hit by reducing the gear ratio allowed cause they were running away from the pushrod guys and the class was getting too fast. So now all the 4v guys are blowing up drivetrains left and right. But last year a 2v won FS. They get a weight break and can run as much gear as they want. If you're not running 11.80's or better you're not going to be competitive. That class used to be an entry level heads up class but now it seems everyone has a purpose built motor and a pretty expensive chassis to go along with it. I think you'd have more fun running True Street or Mod Comp.


-Mark



Its 3400 pounds and you can run any gear with the 4v.
 

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