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2015+ Shelby GT350 Mustang
Another oil consumption thread
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<blockquote data-quote="ANGREY" data-source="post: 16171175" data-attributes="member: 188865"><p>Guys, let's be honest. There's enough varying data out there to suggest that it's still random and/or unidentifiable.</p><p></p><p>You should break in your engine properly, regardless of the oil consumption issue, just because it helps to prevent other issues. But the reality is, you could break the motor in properly and still burn oil. You could break the motor in properly and it burn oil soon after or long after.</p><p></p><p>You could drive it off the lot like you stole it and it not burn oil, or burn oil right away.</p><p></p><p>I happen to think the issue has more to do with cold start up and not letting the motor warm to operating temperature.</p><p></p><p>This is one of the FEW vehicles I've ever owned where I don't just jump in and go. I let it warm past idle drop (120F coolant temps) and even then, I limp it around until it's all the way up to steady state before I flog it. I'm convinced that when the aluminum pistons are cold, they shrink and the rings don't seat properly (or as well as they would otherwise) and that's one (of possibly many) issues surrounding oil burning.</p><p></p><p>I also think windage through the PCV valve is another. Extending high rpm suspends the oil and we see it in our catch cans.</p><p></p><p>But as I've pointed out numerous times, the oil isn't leaking (otherwise SOMEONE would observe leaks, oil in the back of the car, etc) and it isn't going into the coolant (otherwise tons of people would have reported it.). It's either going through the PCV valve and burned through the motor and out the exhaust, OR it's blowing by the rings and out the exhaust OR it's the valve seats and guides and being burned off. But it's definitely being burned and sent through the exhaust. It might be a combination of suspended windage, ring blow by or valve seat/guides leaking.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="ANGREY, post: 16171175, member: 188865"] Guys, let's be honest. There's enough varying data out there to suggest that it's still random and/or unidentifiable. You should break in your engine properly, regardless of the oil consumption issue, just because it helps to prevent other issues. But the reality is, you could break the motor in properly and still burn oil. You could break the motor in properly and it burn oil soon after or long after. You could drive it off the lot like you stole it and it not burn oil, or burn oil right away. I happen to think the issue has more to do with cold start up and not letting the motor warm to operating temperature. This is one of the FEW vehicles I've ever owned where I don't just jump in and go. I let it warm past idle drop (120F coolant temps) and even then, I limp it around until it's all the way up to steady state before I flog it. I'm convinced that when the aluminum pistons are cold, they shrink and the rings don't seat properly (or as well as they would otherwise) and that's one (of possibly many) issues surrounding oil burning. I also think windage through the PCV valve is another. Extending high rpm suspends the oil and we see it in our catch cans. But as I've pointed out numerous times, the oil isn't leaking (otherwise SOMEONE would observe leaks, oil in the back of the car, etc) and it isn't going into the coolant (otherwise tons of people would have reported it.). It's either going through the PCV valve and burned through the motor and out the exhaust, OR it's blowing by the rings and out the exhaust OR it's the valve seats and guides and being burned off. But it's definitely being burned and sent through the exhaust. It might be a combination of suspended windage, ring blow by or valve seat/guides leaking. [/QUOTE]
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