And still no a/c

[03yllwguy]

If he’s using actual gauges that have a high and low side, 65psi on both sides says 1 of 2 things

1. The compressor isn’t running
Or
2. The system is running but he has the gauge valves open instead of closed.

This is a static reading. Car is off. Different set of rules.

Car on? You would be correct. Static pressures that match ambient indicate proper R34 levels which should have been high 80s for him.


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[03yllwguy]

Should I jump the low pressure switch to keep the system running during this test?

In my humble opinion you have not isolated what is happening.

Your compressor cycling means there is enough Freon in the system to turn the compressor on, but not enough to compress.

Could it be a block? Maybe. Could it be too little R34 and or air in the system? You haven’t ruled it out.

For what it’s worth, the dye trick is not all telling and can make a real mess before it becomes helpful. During fill, they make a mess around the service valves and should be washed away to rule out inadvertent assessment as those areas leaking.

FWIW, I just finished my whole AC job up last weekend. I had similar issues which turned out to be leaking service valves dropping my R34 levels low over time.


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[john11gt]

This is a static reading. Car is off. Different set of rules.

Car on? You would be correct. Static pressures that match ambient indicate proper R34 levels which should have been high 80s for him.


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I said if it was 65 on both sides then the system wasn’t running, which is the same as the car being off. The system doesn’t care that the car is running if the system is off.

 

[toomanytoys]

So I guess it’s a good possibility that the accumulator/drier has shit the bed

 

[toomanytoys]

Ok I just tried the temp test. I started the car and turned the air on max. The low pressure port line coming out of the accumulator turned cold almost instantly while the input line coming from the firewall didn’t. Does that mean the blockage is inside? (After about 5 min both lines were cold)