Aluminator ???

[2face]

ALUMINATOR, KB 2.6L(3' pulley), 2lb lower,gt pumps,2 FPDM's,60 lbs inj, snow water/meth injection,s/b accufab,jlt h/b 12' cai,bbk Lt's,o/r X,magna flow c/b,sct 3000maf,boosta spark, head coolin mod,intercooler tank,4 core howe radiator,.... what kind of power to expect also will this engine live at 16lbs??? i have a boosta pump will i need this? thank you all

 

[2face]

i spent alot of time and cash buildin my stock bottom end with cp pistons. problem is 50,000 miles quarter mile at a time. the heads have detonation on the bottom.to build a motor is like $7,500.new heads,long block, cams,timin chains,oil pump,gaskets, plus me doing the work. which abviously didn't workout to good for me.. so im droppin boost down to 15-16lbs with a aluminator frpp's engine. i dont want to pull this engine apart to put pistons in it,or head studs. will this engine survive the kenne belle???

 

[forcefedcobra]

that is somewhat still up for debate. Several have lived to 900+ rwhp with turbo's

I think it will all depend on if you have enough good fuel and a spot on tune. It's like any motor..........you could have a built motor capable of holding 1k+ rwhp and you could still blow it up at 500 rwhp.

 

[supercarkiller]

very well said forcefed!

 

[2face]

thanks guys

 

[forcefedcobra]

very well said forcefed!

thank you. As some of you know I had to go round and round with a POS aluminator with Ford and actually rebuilt the bottom end giving them tons of info only to get a minute amount of money back from them.

FRPP reps will tell you that the motors can handle well north of 700 rwhp with proper fuel delivery and tuning. My car is currently making over 600 rwhp on a pump gas tune and will be getting more boost and race gas to get close to 700 rwhp soon.

 

[2face]

damn man thats what i dont want to happen. are you runnin a twin screw? how much boost ?

 

[HISSMAN]

Just get a good tune. It will handle just about everything that the 03/04 OEM iron engine can handle. Get a good tune, and good fuel. I am going to be running around with around 620 rwhp on the street at all times without a second thought. Of course the only thing that is really the same with my engine and the aluminator is the block, rods, and crank.

-Jeff

 

[forcefedcobra]

damn man thats what i dont want to happen. are you runnin a twin screw? how much boost ?

yes a whipple 2.3 at 15 psi on 91 octane. I have a 17 psi and 19 psi setup for pump+torco and 110 octane for use in the future.

FRPP says that all current production aluminator's are corrected. If you do decide to go that route just make sure you do the "idiot test". Make sure the motor will spin around by hand before firing it up. More than a few people didnt do this and found out that FRPP installed the crank all the way at the back of the motor causing the harmonic balancer to be smashed up against the timing cover. When started this would cause them to eat eachother until a hole formed and pissed oil all over.

 

[2face]

hey thanks for the info sorry you got boned that sucks man

 

[firemanmike]

yes a whipple 2.3 at 15 psi on 91 octane. I have a 17 psi and 19 psi setup for pump+torco and 110 octane for use in the future.

FRPP says that all current production aluminator's are corrected. If you do decide to go that route just make sure you do the "idiot test". Make sure the motor will spin around by hand before firing it up. More than a few people didnt do this and found out that FRPP installed the crank all the way at the back of the motor causing the harmonic balancer to be smashed up against the timing cover. When started this would cause them to eat eachother until a hole formed and pissed oil all over.

Did they end up doing the right thing with the guys that got the bad motors??? I remember seeing the posts about a few guys that were fighting to get their motors replaced, I don't remember if they did or not.

 

[forcefedcobra]

hey thanks for the info sorry you got boned that sucks man

No problem. I'm just glad I can warn people who are still interested about the possible hazards.

Did they end up doing the right thing with the guys that got the bad motors??? I remember seeing the posts about a few guys that were fighting to get their motors replaced, I don't remember if they did or not.

they gave me a very small monetary compensation. I was given the option of sending the motor back so they could take a look at it and send me a fixed motor back but I chose not to do that for two reasons. #1 the frieght company they used failed to deliver the motor to the requested address because they failed to bring the needed equipment to get the motor off the truck depsite the fact that a request for such device was made at the time of my purchasing the motor from Tousley Ford. #2 the month of fightning with FRPP about the fact that their warranty is a parts only warranty doesnt matter when they send a defective product cost me a considerable amount of money............then they finally decided to stop playing dumb and agreed to take the motor back or come up with a "good faith" monetary offer to fix the motor on my own. I sent them a bill for the arp hardware and labor rate for taking the motor apart, fixing it, and putting it back together. Needless to say they sent Tousley a check for 1/5th of what fixing their motor actually cost.

I'm not happy about it but atleast I can say now that I know better.

 

[firemanmike]

No problem. I'm just glad I can warn people who are still interested about the possible hazards.



they gave me a very small monetary compensation. I was given the option of sending the motor back so they could take a look at it and send me a fixed motor back but I chose not to do that for two reasons. #1 the frieght company they used failed to deliver the motor to the requested address because they failed to bring the needed equipment to get the motor off the truck depsite the fact that a request for such device was made at the time of my purchasing the motor from Tousley Ford. #2 the month of fightning with FRPP about the fact that their warranty is a parts only warranty doesnt matter when they send a defective product cost me a considerable amount of money............then they finally decided to stop playing dumb and agreed to take the motor back or come up with a "good faith" monetary offer to fix the motor on my own. I sent them a bill for the arp hardware and labor rate for taking the motor apart, fixing it, and putting it back together. Needless to say they sent Tousley a check for 1/5th of what fixing their motor actually cost.

I'm not happy about it but atleast I can say now that I know better.

Wow, that sucks. You'd think given the problem and its being obviously their fault that they would've done better. They should've fixed it or replaced it, but woulda, shoulda, coulda, they didn't. There weren't that many as I recall too. I don't think it would've been that expensive to them to replace the few that got out and done the right thing.

 

[forcefedcobra]

Wow, that sucks. You'd think given the problem and its being obviously their fault that they would've done better. They should've fixed it or replaced it, but woulda, shoulda, coulda, they didn't. There weren't that many as I recall too. I don't think it would've been that expensive to them to replace the few that got out and done the right thing.

they were willing to replace it. The problem was the crappy shipping company that had already cost me a week and then the month I was out fightning with frpp. I couldnt afford to wait another month or two to have the motor sent off and another sent back. Their failure to build a quality product having known that crank installation and timing cover clearances had been a problem before (this same problem went on during the start of production cars with modular v8's back in the day) was costing me money on a daily basis.

at the time there were something like 2 dozen motors out there and between this and another forum there were people who had known issues with about half of them.

My friend who helped me with the job (professional mechanic) wrote an article to popular hotrodding magazine about it. I think it finally got published last month or the month before that.

 

[forcefedcobra]

oh and the real kicker was that starting out they told each and every one of us that they werent aware of this problem despite the fact that we all ganged up on the forums and called them during a 2 or 3 day period. They quickly found out that the power of the internet no longer seperated consumers by time zones and area codes.

 

[PWORLDSTANG]

Just get a good tune. It will handle just about everything that the 03/04 OEM iron engine can handle. Get a good tune, and good fuel. I am going to be running around with around 620 rwhp on the street at all times without a second thought. Of course the only thing that is really the same with my engine and the aluminator is the block, rods, and crank.

-Jeff

How is your build going? It's finished right, just waiting to be dropped back in?

yes a whipple 2.3 at 15 psi on 91 octane. I have a 17 psi and 19 psi setup for pump+torco and 110 octane for use in the future.

FRPP says that all current production aluminator's are corrected. If you do decide to go that route just make sure you do the "idiot test". Make sure the motor will spin around by hand before firing it up. More than a few people didnt do this and found out that FRPP installed the crank all the way at the back of the motor causing the harmonic balancer to be smashed up against the timing cover. When started this would cause them to eat eachother until a hole formed and pissed oil all over.

I hope you two keep us posted on the strength and durability of these Aluminator blocks. There are still very few guys out there who are pushing serious amounts of power on these blocks.

These will be a strong consideration for guys in the future who may be looking to save some weight on a build and do not want to go the Teksid route.

 

[HISSMAN]

I am shooting for late next week to drop it back in. Then GAME ON bitches!!! ;-)

 

[Posi]

^I think someone is ready to get their car going.:rockon: