Has anyone had a alternator voltage regulator go out on them at all? My 200 amp PA performance alternator started giving me reading from 12-16.2 volts according to my aeroforce gauge. I think I need to take this thing off and send it to PA.... Was curious if anything similar has happened to anyone else. Thanks, chad
Alternator voltage ?
- Thread starter devilish64
- Start date
An AC Delco unit I temporarily installed in a pinch had sporadic voltage regulation from 13.3 - 15.7V under steady engine operation. I wasn't content with this because my original OEM alternator regulated voltage around 14.5V when it was functioning properly and same thing with the second OEM alternator I installed, with the exception of it not charging under WOT conditions.
Do you need the 200 amp version? The tech guy at PA Performance said that their 130 amp version did a better job of regulating voltage at lower rpms and if I didn't have big audio amplifiers or a lot of power draining accessories, that 130 amps was all I needed. We also spec'd an alternator pulley to make sure I didn't spin the alternator over 16,000 rpms. It is working well for me at this time.
If you are seeing 12V with the engine running, your alternator isn't charging your battery. I would pull it and send it back.
Do you need the 200 amp version? The tech guy at PA Performance said that their 130 amp version did a better job of regulating voltage at lower rpms and if I didn't have big audio amplifiers or a lot of power draining accessories, that 130 amps was all I needed. We also spec'd an alternator pulley to make sure I didn't spin the alternator over 16,000 rpms. It is working well for me at this time.
If you are seeing 12V with the engine running, your alternator isn't charging your battery. I would pull it and send it back.
I absolutely do not need the 200 amp.... I figured there was no downside to it wich is why I bought it. I guess I will have to pull it off..... as much as a dont want to do it AGAIN!
Whats considered okay for alternator changing? Example, sitting in traffic with AC on, HE fans on, BAP running full time my voltage is around 13.1v-13.2v, is that a sign of the alternator going out? Should it be reading in the 14v all the time?
With all of those accessories on at engine idle on a hot day, I don't see a problem with 13V at the battery. At 2000 rpms or above, you should be over 14V.
Means its over loaded at idle. And discharging the battery. A proper working alt should have enough power to run everything at idle. Unfortunately they came stock with alts barley able to keep up with the car accessories from the factory
So would an aftermarket alternator be able to provide 14v at idle this the load mentioned above and yet not get over spun when shifting at 6-6.5k rpm's? Maybe this is impossible so just asking.
I went through three (yes three) alternators before I finally bit the bullet and put in a Nations alternator.
One of those three was a PA Performance alt as well.
Haven't had an issue since the Nations. It's expensive (which is why I waited so long) but it's worth it knowing I won't have to get under the car and do the alternator... AGAIN.
One of those three was a PA Performance alt as well.
Haven't had an issue since the Nations. It's expensive (which is why I waited so long) but it's worth it knowing I won't have to get under the car and do the alternator... AGAIN.
What's wrong with a Ford replacement??
He'll
He'll have the same problem down the road... the ford alternator craps out after a while.What's wrong with a Ford replacement??
I've had very good luck with them on Crown Vics and my 2004 Marauder went 200K miles without a hiccup......I guess over time Ford has really cut corners, huh??
Yes. Going with a nations or mechman alts will fix the problem. They are not cheaper $500-$700. They are made very well and have no issues charging at idle with everything on it will still be at 14.xx volts. They also dont have issues with over spinning as when racing like most of the others do.
They fail i went through 3 of them.What's wrong with a Ford replacement??
Unfortunately thats not the case with the gt500s 07-08.I've had very good luck with them on Crown Vics and my 2004 Marauder went 200K miles without a hiccup......I guess over time Ford has really cut corners, huh??
Like a couple others said that is acceptable. A fully charged battery is actually 12.6V so you aren't discharging. I suspect a slight rpm increase kicks you up to 14. You really want 13.8-14.2V while running.
It's likely one can on your car. My PA Performance 130 amp unit is doing it right now with a 10% underdrive pulley mounted on the alternator and my warm engine idle rpm set at 850 RPM. I drove my car to work today and let it idle in the parking lot with lights on, stereo on, A/C on (= engine cooling fan on), HE cooling fans on, intercooler pump on, NO boost-a-pump, and the lowest battery voltage I saw on my AeroForce Interceptor gauge was 14.2V for a second or two then back up to 14.5V. If you are routinely spinning your engine above 6000 RPM, you should underdrive your alternator with a larger pulley. Check out this link for a better explanation: www.paperformance.com/rpm-calculator/
If it seems like I am pushing the PA Performance brand, I'm not. Two Ford OEM alternators have failed on my car, and an AC Delco unit didn't work well for me either. My PA Performance alternator is working well for me at this time, but if it fails down the road, I'll likely fork over the cash for a Nations or Mechman unit as others have done.
What's wrong with a Ford replacement??
Quality ain't what it used to be! They are remanufactured junk, not what you want in your high performance vehicle... don't waste your time or money on one. The first data log in this thread is a "new" Ford OEM remanufactured unit that consistently quit charging under WOT conditions: https://www.svtperformance.com/foru...-alternator-performing.1159061/#post-15903004
Go with a mechman, I’ve never had a problem with one , I’m selling one nib I switched to a bps single belt drive system so I can’t use it anymore
Which one did you get, the "one wire" or the E-series 6 phase version?
What he said. I’ve had a Nations for 4 years with no problem after going thru stock +2 aftermarket.
Users who are viewing this thread
