Alternator again Really

[DrakeSnake]

Come on really 7 months and I need a new alternator. Dont buy from eBay My World - eagleautoelectric. just FYI. Im getting screwed on my warranty because there not answering my calls or email. What size pulley do you guy run on your alternators?:cuss:

 

[safado]

Sorry to hear, I'm in the same boat.. was looking at the BNR ebay 200 amp alt... the Eagle one seems to have proven itself as a fail...

 

[SVT-FI$H2088]

Yea... I'm on my second one from them. Haven't sent the other to get replaced since it still has warranty. Hope they do respond.

 

[50 Deep]

Me and some local guys have been running alternators that I worked with a local company to design. He builds up to 170 amp units. I explained the issues we were having to him and he came up with what has proven to be a reliable unit. Putting out 14.9 volts when i tested it with my voltmeter. They are warrantied and all. I've had my 170 amp unit without issues for a while now.

I was making 678rw with his 130 amp unit without issues before upgrading to this one. A few of my buddies have them in all applications from street driven making 500 wheel, to modded cars making 650+. They also do contract work to rebuild alternators for city vehicles, so they have experience.

Giive him a call and see what he can do for you. It's a father and son company. Ask for Augustine. If the dad answers prepare to go a little slow, he speaks mostly Spanish. Just mention Terrance with the red mustang told you to call.

Capital City Alternators
916-399-9031

 

[dlc03]

I had to replace a oem alternator after just six months as well. Good thing for the warranty.

 

[X3FBrian]

I just installed a 130 amp start n charge with 3.2" pulley

 

[KINGCOBRA86]

I just installed a eBay eagleautoelectri160 amp, with a 3.2 pulley the volts are all over the place? I don't even fill that my car is reliable any more.

 

[X3FBrian]

My start n charge and 3.2 alt pulley charges my battery at 15.1 volts while idling....don't know how long a battery will last like that. Oh well, just got a new one with a nice warranty anyways

 

[Riddick]

When mine goes I think I am going to go with a Start-N-Charge. The Ebay ones lately have not had good reviews. There is the Mechman Billet alternators as well but they are around 600 and a few have been having fitment issues but that should be an easy fix from the manufacturer. Here is a link to the Start-N-Charge alternators, scroll down a little and you can see the contact information: 170° PERFORMANCE THERMOSTAT for Mustang Shelby GT500, Boss 302, Cobra, Lightning, GT & Mach 1

 

[Iamchris]

People were raving about the eagleauto alternators for a while there... now the opposite. Its unfortunate to hear, but I'm going to keep up faith on the one I put in my car.

 

[DrakeSnake]

Me and some local guys have been running alternators that I worked with a local company to design. He builds up to 170 amp units. I explained the issues we were having to him and he came up with what has proven to be a reliable unit. Putting out 14.9 volts when i tested it with my voltmeter. They are warrantied and all. I've had my 170 amp unit without issues for a while now.

I was making 678rw with his 130 amp unit without issues before upgrading to this one. A few of my buddies have them in all applications from street driven making 500 wheel, to modded cars making 650+. They also do contract work to rebuild alternators for city vehicles, so they have experience.

Giive him a call and see what he can do for you. It's a father and son company. Ask for Augustine. If the dad answers prepare to go a little slow, he speaks mostly Spanish. Just mention Terrance with the red mustang told you to call.

Capital City Alternators
916-399-9031

Thanks Man

 

[black 10th vert]

One thing I would suggest doing is running the pulley that you are supposed to run with a Metco lower (I think 3.2"). It doesn't spin the alternator quite as fast, especially with a stock lower, so in theory it should last longer. I just recently utilized the cooling duct on the bumper to duct air directly on the alternator, which I'm hoping will help with keeping it a bit cooler, as heat seems to be the biggest reason these things are failing early.

 

[Evil Bender]

+1 on the cooling duct. I did this after my first factory alternator died and had no problem with the next one.

 

[KINGCOBRA86]

How are y'all going about doing the cooling mod? Pic?

 

[black 10th vert]

How are y'all going about doing the cooling mod? Pic?

I bought 2 pieces of nice ducting material from tractionless (I think) a year, or 2 ago and it was sitting on my bench up until last week when I had to pull a wheelwell for something on the passenger side, so I decided to do both ducts while I was in there. I wanted the passenger side to direct cold air into the fender to feed my boxed in ram air setup. I didn't blow it directly at the filter though because I've read it can cause MAF problems. With the driver's side, I didn't need to remove the inner fender, just routed the duct inside of that plastic splash shield that hangs down, and then I attached it so it blows directly toward the alternator at kind of a 45 deg. upward angle so it gets the front and bottom cooling vents on the alternator. I used zipties to secure it, and it is rock solid. I figure that those ports are just for show in stock form, so I decided to utilize them for something useful.;-)

 

[safado]

Has anyone ever found out what exactly is the most common part that fails in the OE Alternator?

 

[caveeagle]

One thing I would suggest doing is running the pulley that you are supposed to run with a Metco lower (I think 3.2"). It doesn't spin the alternator quite as fast, especially with a stock lower, so in theory it should last longer. I just recently utilized the cooling duct on the bumper to duct air directly on the alternator, which I'm hoping will help with keeping it a bit cooler, as heat seems to be the biggest reason these things are failing early.

Wow! This threas is very timely!! I JUST placed an order for a 160amp alternator from Jamie at StartNcharge. I think its cool that he includes the upgraded power wire that others charge $49 for.

I was thinking about asking him for an underdrive pully, but was not sure if that would be good for my car. I have a VERY stock Terminator with no motor mods. Would the 3.2 pulley still be a good idea for my car? Would I need to use a different length accesory belt?

I would also like to see how the cooling vent tube was set up to cool the alt. And wheres the best place to order to cooling hose?

 

[Iamchris]

I figure that those ports are just for show in stock form, so I decided to utilize them for something useful.

If you mean the ones on the side of your fog lamps, they are there for your brakes. Though many people further duct them for even better brake cooling. For folks that track their car, brake ducting is almost a must... or so I read.

If you drive the car like normal, I doubt it will make a difference that you diverted that air... other than possibly saving your alternator. Just dont be surprised it you warp or crack a rotor. As unlikely as it is... SVT did decide to duct them, presumably for a reason.

 

[NitrousExpress]

Sorry to hear that man. Will spread the word.
-Garrett

 

[caveeagle]

If you drive the car like normal, I doubt it will make a difference that you diverted that air... other than possibly saving your alternator. Just dont be surprised it you warp or crack a rotor. As unlikely as it is... SVT did decide to duct them, presumably for a reason.

The Terminator brake ducting holes do nothing to cool our brakes (in stock form). Your brakes are more likely to suck air from under the nose than those holes unless you install the brake cooling hoses and vent plates to direct the air into the center of the rotor. Take a look at the Kenny Brown kits that direct the air over to your brakes.

Front Brake Ducts for 1994-2004 Mustang and Cobra | Shop Kenny Brown

If you are not planning to install the cooling hosed for your brakes, there is no reason not to run a cooling tube over to the alternator.