Alignment tools

[01Cobra896]

OK, how many of you guys set your own alignment? If you do, what brand tools do you use? I have tried two shops near me and neither one set the alignment where I wanted it. Now my front tires are screwed and I do not want to trust anyone else on setting the car up.

 

[MFE]

I've been doing my own for years, with very little cash outlay. Here's some more info: http://www.corral.net/forums/showthread.php?t=931155

 

[01Cobra896]

Thanks, I really appreciate that.

 

[ac427cobra]

I like to run a pair of strings along both sides of the car being careful to compensate for wheel spacers when you run the strings. I put the strings on a pair of jackstands running at centerline of the tire. Then using a square, a tape measure and some toe plates or a toe bar you can tweak the car in areas you want.

I get baseline numbers after the car comes from the alignment rack. I have a buddy that works at a shop that has an alignment rack and we work on my car after hours. We have trouble with the machine reading front toe because of the 4 degrees of combined camber will not allow the machine to read toe. Caster should never need to be changed. Run it max. The toe plates allow you to set toe front and rear if you're running an IRS. The strings keep you straight so you don't dog track.

The carpenter's square allows you to measure and adjust your camber if necessary. Set your toe last using the toe plates while watching/measuring the strings to wheel lips.

The toe plates allow you to change the toe very easily (if you have a drive on rack or set-up stands) and you can use that as a tuning tool for any handling issues you might be having.

YMMV,

:thumbsup: :coolman: :beer:

 

[ShelbyGuy]

I'm kind of surprised you would use toe plates or a bar when you already have the car strung up. toe plates/toe bar measure the toe of the wheels between eachother and not the centerline of the car. unless you're measuring from the plate to the string (i use the edge of the wheel)

 

[ac427cobra]

I'm kind of surprised you would use toe plates or a bar when you already have the car strung up. toe plates/toe bar measure the toe of the wheels between eachother and not the centerline of the car. unless you're measuring from the plate to the string (i use the edge of the wheel)

John:

I find the toe plates a lot more accurate than going by strings alone. Your eyes are a little younger than mine and may not have the issues seeing the edges that I do!? :read:

The strings give me reference and toe plates give me accuracy.

YMMV

:thumbsup: :coolman: :beer:

 

[99COBRA2881]

What about a Longacre Digital Caster/Camber guage?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130144349090#ebayphotohosting
I dont want to have to string the car just would rather hold this up check the alignment and be done with it. Opinions?

 

[ac427cobra]

What about a Longacre Digital Caster/Camber guage?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130144349090#ebayphotohosting
I dont want to have to string the car just would rather hold this up check the alignment and be done with it. Opinions?

Hey a Carpenter's square is $2.00 ;-) oke:

 

[99COBRA2881]

Ok youve got my attention... care to explain how you use it to set camber?

$2.00 vs $200. is a no brainer. I dont mind alittle more work but stringing the car seems like it would leave alot of room for error in getting the strings positioned correctly. I need to read up on this before I do anything.

 

[MFE]

http://www.corral.net/forums/showthread.php?t=931155

 

[ac427cobra]

Ok youve got my attention... care to explain how you use it to set camber?

$2.00 vs $200. is a no brainer. I dont mind alittle more work but stringing the car seems like it would leave alot of room for error in getting the strings positioned correctly. I need to read up on this before I do anything.

Anthony:

This is after I come from my buddy's shop having done an alignment:

Take the short leg of the carpenter's square and set it on the (level) section of your concrete floor with the long leg up against the bottom lip of your wheel. Measure the distance from the square to the top lip of the wheel and now you know that 7/8" = -1.7 (not actual numbers, just giving you an example here) degrees of negative camber. Always do this "verifying" in the same area of your shop floor. I do mine by my lift as to maintain as much accuracy as possible. Note these dimensions in your set-up notes so you can refer to them later.

Keep in mind any change in camber must also be followed by a toe setting.

FWIW

:thumbsup: :coolman: :beer: